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B because the resistors increase the current draw (load) on the circuit to simulate an incandescent globe.
Best if you can fit the resistors to your van rather than the car. My van's lead from the trailer plug breaks out under the bed so it was easy to fit mine there.
PS I've added the switching on of the brake lights, parkers/clearance lights and hazards if the breakaway switch is triggered.
Thanks, Graeme.
My problem is that I tow more than one trailer with LED lights and I can't fit resistors to all of them. One is mine, but the others are not. I suppose I can fit the resistors to mine and just use a Ford dongle for the others. If so, do I just wire the resistors across the Indicator and Earth wires without the switch?
Cheers
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If the earth ends of 2 resistors are joined then the earth switched then when switched off power will feed back to the other side blinker unless diodes are installed. However if a double pole switch is installed (1 pole per side) then no feed-back will occur.
I don't bother with my box trailer so it doesn't trigger the instrument cluster indicators.
Hi NT,
'B' is what I used on mine. The push on/push off DPST switch that I placed on the luggage compartment panel was not the best choice, as it's vulnerable to being pressed by loads in the back. I've already cut the hole in the blank switch, so I'll need to fabricate (or find) a plastic guard to protect it.
Thanks, Graeme and Hugh Jars.
So, Hugh Jars, where did you find access to the wires to tap for the resistors and switch?
Cheers
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PS Hugh Jars, I have ordered a short air hose for my compressor install - it is being couriered to me.
NT,
I removed the rear tray that holds the towbar bits and covers the compressor.
I don’t think you have a subwoofer in the SE, but I removed mine to get better access to the wiring.
There’s a large wire bundle on the passenger side that exits at the very rear of the car through a large rubber pass-through near the centre.
I can’t remember the colours of the wires, but you can see they’ve been adapted for the Aust market. I used a multimeter to trace from the 12 pin plug to the loom inside. I used Posi-taps to tap the wires, as Scotchloks are rubbish.
Hope this helps...
Can you remember what colour/size Posi-Taps you used? Seems they are available on eBay.
I'll have a look tomorrow for the wiring...
Cheers
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NT, not sure of the gauge, but they are red barrels with a grey end (for the wire you're tapping into). The wires you'll tap into are thinner than usual, probably because it's CAN wiring.
I'll check in the morning if I have any left, and take a photo.
You won't be tapping into CAN wires unless you're doing something like I did when adding a rear e-diff controller to the HS CAN network of my L322.
Graeme
You used my Jeep Grand Cherokee to work out the LLAMS system for them years ago... How is the farm going with the drought?
I am afraid I do not understand why there is a difference between connecting the two earth wires from the two resistors directly to the earth return and doing it through a double pole/single throw switch. The end result is the same, is it not, whether the switch - in a closed state - is there or not?
Eventually I will get my head around this stuff...
Cheers
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