Same same. No difference, your choice.
As I am not driving anywhere at the moment - and in to the foreseeable future for that matter - I was thinking maybe I should keep the starter battery topped up.
Should I put the charge leads on the jump starter posts or, should I connect them via a 175 Amp Anderson plug I have attached directly to the positive post and a body earth via very short 6B&S cables?
Any thoughts as to which would be preferable?
Cheers
Numb Thumbs
Same same. No difference, your choice.
You can charge it via the tow bar electric plug as well, but as the D5 comes with a 12pin flat plug you might have to adapt a cable to do so.
Related to this topic, having just bought a van myself (plan B as plan A was going to Europe this month). With the van attached while driving, the fridge will run off he car battery. But will continue to do so when stopped so doing this for an hour will give a "Start engine - battery low" warning on the dashboard when getting in. I guess a dual battery system with a battery isolator is required where the fridge runs off the 2nd battery? Or would you keep the fridge cool via 240v/gas and turn the fridge off for the journey?
Ron
2016 D4 TDV6 Corris Grey
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2018 D5 TD6 SE Silicon Silver - gone
2011 D4 TDV6 2.7 Indus Silver - gone
IIDTool BT
You can buy a thing called a "Fridge Switch" which has a motion detector and turns off the van fridge after 5 minutes stopped.
I would fit one if I had a gas/electric fridge.
Regards PhilipA
You only get one shot at life, Aim well
2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
4.6m Quintrex boat
20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone
If the fridge is a 3 way, it will probably pull 10 or 13 Amps when running on 12 Volts. Solar and batteries are going to have trouble keeping up with that.
Cheers
Numb Thumbs
Fuji White 2019 SE Sd6
It is a 3 way fridge freezer. When the van detects it is connected to the car, none of the electrics (lights, slide out etc) in the van work except for the fridge. I'm not sure if it would charge a car battery with this set up. I'll probably go the dual battery way but it will have to wait a few months.
Thanks
Ron
2016 D4 TDV6 Corris Grey
--------------------------------------------------------
2018 D5 TD6 SE Silicon Silver - gone
2011 D4 TDV6 2.7 Indus Silver - gone
IIDTool BT
Hi Numb Thumbs, you can use a standard 50 amp Anderson plug, on 6B&S cabling and this will easily and safely start your motor if you need a jump start.
Here is a link that explains how to carry out a proper Jump Start and why you only need a 50 amp Anderson plug.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/the-verandah/246755-line-auto-electrical-info-4.html
BTW, to keep you cranking battery in good nick when the vehicle is not used for long periods, connect a solar panel to the cranking battery and if it's under 5w, you will not need a solar regulator.
A correctly fitted Anderson plug should easily deliver 30 Amps to the caravan so it could run the fridge and charge a battery at the same time. But it must be correctly fitted with the right sized wiring.
Cheers
Numb Thumbs
Hi Ron and check your 3 way fridge’s specs.
They can draw up to 23 amps for a big fridge freezer type and that sort of a current draw on any battery is a No-No.
You also have an additional potential problem as the fridge will be running off your cranking battery is the STOP/START function is on. ( STOP/START should not be working with a trailer connected, BUT )
An alternative to the “Fridge Switch” ( which is a good idea but will still have your fridge running off the cranking battery when the motor is off ), is to use the FRIDGE circuit in the trailer plug, to switch something like a 40 horn relay.
You then power the fridge from the cranking battery via the relay.
If you set up this way, your fridge will only be connected to your cranking battery while the motor is running.
This circuit is only powered while the motor is running and if the ignition is “ON” but the motor is not running ( see STOP/START ) the FRIDGE circuit is turned off.
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