No special tools or sheetmetal benders needed! All I used were a circular saw, jig saw, angle grinder with cut off wheel and drill.

Materials: Wiring, air hoses, sheet of 12 mm ply, some marine carpet, assorted tie downs and bolts/nylocs, some scrap metal plate and angle. Also cable ties, corrugated tubing and cable wrap.

Day to day, the boot looks like this:



On the passenger side I have attached a length of shock cord and a 25mm nylon strap with a Fastex side release buckle to hold in some garden garbage bags, a flouro vest, fire extinguisher and an ARB hose bag with a pile of air hoses and accessories in it.

On a trip it looks like this - empty:



That is a new false floor made from 12mm ply and covered with marine carpet. I cut a hole so I can easily get to the spare wheel winder and used the cut out as a plug. That is the brown thing on the centre line. I can access it easily the way I load the car. The assorted tie down points allow me to anchor stuff when travelling. I tie down the fridge - on the passenger side so I can easily access it when the camper is attached in camp without having to walk around the car - to the existing front passenger tie down and the new front centre one plus the rear one I have added. I use the rear and front centre ones plus the drivers side fixed ones to lash down a couple of plastic boxes I use for assorted gear on the driver's side. I use a pair of tie down straps with carabiners on the ends for that. They work well and are really quick to attach/detach and don't fall off the tie downs when loose. I use metal plates under the tie downs to spread the load of the bolts. I have a fridge slide, but it is ridiculously heavy and I really don't need it, so it now stays in the garage.

Under the floor I have not even removed the foam insert:





The compressor, air tank and battery are actually held down by the floor above them. The compressor and the Ctek D250Dual are screwed on to sections of ply to keep them in place.

Two cables - 6B&S - with Anderson plugs on the ends - exit the space to behind the rear seats. These I use for the Waeco 40 litre fridge and an 11 litre compressor fridge I sometimes carry on the back seat for keeping water bottles cold. I simply cut a hole in the foam insert and pushed them through. The cables exit between the battery and air tank. The cables in the front right connect the auxiliary battery to the starter battery, the compressor to the starter battery - I figure the 64 Amp load of the compressor is too much for the auxiliary battery and I always have the engine running when using the compressor anyway, so it made sense to "cut out the middle man" as the Ctek is only 25 Amps. You can also see the braided air hose from the air tank which goes to a socket I have placed at the jack compartment lid. Its left hand end connects to an ARB Pressure Controller so I run the compressor from my phone once it is turned on. I connect up a pair of hoses - joined by a T piece - and attach them to the tyres I want to inflate or deflate, set what pressure I want on my phone and the system then either inflates or deflates them both simultaneously to the required pressure. I have enough hose - 2 x 6 metre orange ARB hoses plus one black rubber 6 metre hose - to reach the front, rear and camper tyres and even the tyres on another car if I need to. The rubber chair leg end keeps it dust and crud free:



I thought about mounting the socket externally but decided that made no sense to me as it would be the victim of massive amounts of dust and mud there and I keep the hoses in the boot so I have to open it anyway...

I have also mounted an Anderson plug next to the jack hatch for convenience as it will be above whatever I put in the boot - I never load it over the seat backs.



I have created a switch panel in the dash in front of the gear knob for my switches, including the ARB compressor one. The switches are, left to right: ARB Compressor, master for the compressor and Pressure Controller, Redarc Tow Pro Elite and the ballast resistors I use when towing so the car can "see" the trailer. All are easy to see and reach. The angle is simply spray painted with matt black paint and attached with double sided tape.



When I eventually sell the car I can quickly and easily remove the lot as the wiring uses Anderson plugs and spade terminals and the air hoses all just unscrew. It will probably take me a couple of hours of work to remove them all and put the original false floor back in. It will take some careful looking to find what I had done. I even have the foam insert that held the tow hitch etc. when I got the car, so that can go back in, too.

Cheers
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