So good.. this is now on my list to do. Thanks!
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So good.. this is now on my list to do. Thanks!
Just thinking about this a bit more.. does the RRS have a variable voltage alternator?.. and what type of battery is the OEM starter?..
The reason I ask is.. you've just installed and optima yellow which is AGM. The AGMs need a different charge profile to fully recharge.
If the OEM starter is also AGM then it's all good but if not then you may need a DC2DC to get the voltage up high enough to charge the AGM.
Standard battery is 850CCA AGM. I've run the D34 in my D4 for the last 5 years with no problems using a traxide SC80 and an ABG25 for the fridge. I'll probably buy a DT90 which combines the two this time.
just as an aside the location that I'm using isn't for the start stop battery but is for a larger 70ah battery used for cold climates. Looking at the parts catalogue there are two brackets to hold it down fairly expensive for the top one at $42 ex the UK.
Hi Greg, you can connect the solar output and power from the alternator without causing any sort of problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregz
As you have posted, at present you can only source power from one or the other, as your solar panel is a portable type.
But if you decide to fit solar panels to your caravan, then there is no issue with connecting the solar regulator’s output directly to your house battery and have the power coming from your alternator also connected to the same battery.
This type of setup would give you a much faster recharging of your house battery and is a very common type of system used in hundreds of thousands of motor homes and caravans.
Hi Burble and there is no need for a DC/DC charger in any Land Rover, including the latest with STOP/START function.Quote:
Originally Posted by Burble
This includes charging house batteries in a caravan or camper trailer.
The voltage is variable but the claims made by the sellers of DC/DC device, that "you need a DC/DC device in vehicles with variable voltage, or you will never charge your auxiliary/house battery" is nothing more than pure scaremongering.
If there was a problem, then you would never be able to keep your cranking battery charger.
And note, Land Rovers have had variable voltage alternator operations since the D3 was introduced back in 2005.
Also, when charging direct from the alternator, you can have any mix of batteries and your alternator will charge all of them at their optimum charging requirement and will never over charge any one of them. DC/DC devices can not do that.
A word of warning for owners of vehicles with the STOP/START function.
Be very careful of using a DC/DC device in these vehicle, because there are going to be heaps of cranking batteries having a very short operating life, because DC/DC devices are very hard to set up so they do not overload the cranking battery, while the motor is off during a STOP/START event.
Thanks for the info guys.
My understanding was that an AGM needs to see a higher voltage to reach a full charge than the typical 13.6-13.8 of an traditional alternator. And that an AGM used in a cycling application will struggle to recharge with a variable voltage that often drops to 12v before it's replenished. It's not an issue for the starter as it's not cycling...cranking draws very little ah.
I don't want to highjack this thread but do you see any issues with the enerdrive DC2DC in my van wreaking havoc with the RRS charge circuit?.. it's charging a Lifepo4 battery so unavoidable.
I understood from what Greg wrote that he is feeding alternator output into the solar regulator, not connecting to the output of the solar regulator and because the van has a solar regulator I assumed that solar panels were on the van also feeding into the solar regulator at up to 20V, hence my concern.Quote:
Originally Posted by drivesafe
These vehicles are NOT LC200's!Quote:
Originally Posted by Burble
Hi Graeme, his first post was not that clear but his next post cleared up how he was connecting the two power supplies.Quote:
Originally Posted by Graeme