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Thread: Second battery

  1. #1
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    Second battery

    I'm keen to put my 40l Engel in the back of the new RRS, plus I like having the extra capacity for when it's connected to the caravan. I had a suspicion that there was a lot of room behind the panels in the load area and went looking yesterday to see if I could make a bracket to hold a decent sized battery and tray.
    I looked in the LHS first and there is a lot of room in there but i couldn't see much to mount a tray which will carry around 30kg of battery. The RHS was a different story there is already a spot for a second battery! Measuring it up it looks like an Optima D34 will fit nicely. I'll take the one out of my D4 today for a trial fit.
    It is right next to the fuse box and the main battery is very close with positive and negative terminals right next to it so the wiring to the battery isolator will be nice and short and tucked away neatly.

    Attachment 137669
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    Fuji white RRS L494 AB

  2. #2
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    That's the spot for the stop-start battery.
    Someone makes a bracket for the LHS.
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    That's the spot for the stop-start battery.
    Someone makes a bracket for the LHS.
    Yes, I saw Bobd had one for his 405, I don’t know if it would fit the RRS though and I think if the D34 fits here it will be perfect.
    Fuji white RRS L494 AB

  4. #4
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    Yes, and if there was a stop-start battery there then replace it which disables stop-start nicely anyway.
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

  5. #5
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    They've 'hidden' the stop/start battery elsewhere on MY16 and above.
    Cheers,

    Sean

    “Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former.” - Albert Einstein

  6. #6
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    Hi Geedublya, I haven't actually looked behind my panels to see where the 2nd battery is, just assumed it was in there. Thanks for the tip, I will take a look and see where mine is.... might get some more storage space available. Did you happen to take a photo inside of the LHS panel?
    I don't carry a refrigerator in the car, but there is one in the caravan. The car came with 12 pin socket already fitted, but the caravan plug is only 7 pins.... I have just now jaycar'd up a connection to get 12v power topping up the caravan battery while on the move, so the caravan battery can run the refrigerator without dropping too much charge. All this to be fully tested, and a bit mickey-mouse, but looks like it could work. So I bought a 12 pin plug from which I can get access to the other 5 pins, connected to a 7 pin socket that is just straight through from the normal 7 pin socket on the car to the caravan 7 pin plug. From pins 9 & 10 (I think) I get 12v ignition-switched plus earth. Pin 8 is permanent 12v - I didn't want to use this in case I drain the battery when the car is switched off. I feed this through a 15A fuse (just guessing this is something less than what the circuit in the car is) and a Wattmeter through to the anderson plug which goes into the solar controller in the van. When I hook it all up, I can see that it draws somewhere between 3 - 5 A, I am hopeful that not too much more will be sucked up by the caravan battery if it is a bit more depleted. In the caravan I can see that the solar controller thinks it is getting power from solar panels. Will be testing it more over the Easter weekend.
    20180317_resize 1.jpg20180317_resize2.jpg20180317_resize4.jpg
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    Gone - RRS SE SDV6 with Dynamic MY15.5 Yulong White, with LLAMS

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gregz View Post
    I feed this through a 15A fuse (just guessing this is something less than what the circuit in the car is) and a Wattmeter through to the anderson plug which goes into the solar controller in the van.
    I would not feed 12V from the car into the solar controller's solar panel input. The solar panels operate at too high a voltage for the car's 12V system so you risk damage to the car's electronics and if the controller is an MPPT controller then you prevent the solar regulator from doing its job maximising output. The car's 12V feed should go to the van's battery.
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    I would not feed 12V from the car into the solar controller's solar panel input. The solar panels operate at too high a voltage for the car's 12V system so you risk damage to the car's electronics and if the controller is an MPPT controller then you prevent the solar regulator from doing its job maximising output. The car's 12V feed should go to the van's battery.

    Thanks Graeme, I wont be connecting the car up to the caravan if the solar panels are connected up to the caravan... it will be either/or not both at once - I only have the one anderson plug on the caravan, and the solar panels are portable not fixed to the caravan, so physically impossible. So, should be all good from that perspective (hopefully)
    Gone - RRS SE SDV6 with Dynamic MY15.5 Yulong White, with LLAMS

  9. #9
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    Thanks for the RHS pic.. that's a great spot for the battery!

    For the caravan hot wire I ran a new cable from the battery to the 12pin trailer socket. In my van I have a DCDC and it will happily pull 40A from the car, so the factory 15A feed wasn't good enough for me.

  10. #10
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    More photos with the D34 in place, It will fit nicely I just have to fabricate a hold down bracket. It really is an easy spot with the positive lead from the battery next to it and the earth stud just a bit further away.

    Battery 3.jpg


    Battery 1.jpg


    LHS with panel removed.

    LHS rear 2.jpg

    LHS rear.jpg
    Fuji white RRS L494 AB

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