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Thread: Replacing battery

  1. #11
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    While we are talking batteries is there a recommendation, brand etc. I am assuming the battery would be a AGM type. $600 seems a high price for a battery, I was buying Yuasa High amp hour for my V10 Touareg for less and that vehicle had an equally complicated EMS.

  2. #12
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    From the workshop manual....
    If a new battery is fitted to the vehicle, the BMS control module will require re-calibrating using a Land Rover approved diagnostic system.

    For our vehicles of this age, they use SDD. I dont think IID tool will do it.
    Gone - RRS SE SDV6 with Dynamic MY15.5 Yulong White, with LLAMS

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bails View Post
    While we are talking batteries is there a recommendation, brand etc. I am assuming the battery would be a AGM type. $600 seems a high price for a battery, I was buying Yuasa High amp hour for my V10 Touareg for less and that vehicle had an equally complicated EMS.
    V10 Touregs had significantly lower power demands.
    EMS is but one ECM

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bails View Post
    While we are talking batteries is there a recommendation, brand etc. I am assuming the battery would be a AGM type. $600 seems a high price for a battery, I was buying Yuasa High amp hour for my V10 Touareg for less and that vehicle had an equally complicated EMS.
    It isn't only an amp/hour thing. Batteries for stop/start vehicles are built differently to allow for high current fast charging. Using a non stop/start battery will result in very short battery life.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigJon View Post
    It isn't only an amp/hour thing. Batteries for stop/start vehicles are built differently to allow for high current fast charging. Using a non stop/start battery will result in very short battery life.
    Hi BigJon, and spot on the money.

    The development of new STOP/START AGM cranking batteries over the last few years means that these batteries can be charged faster but they will also tolerate many more START/RECHARGE cycles than a conventional cranking battery, so they are the best batteries to use, even in older non STOP/START vehicles.


    Slightly off the subject but just in case some one is thinking of it, a word of caution.


    DO NOT CONSIDER USING LITHIUM CRANKING BATTERIES.


    Most lithiums can be charged directly from an alternator and if it’s the auxiliary battery then it’s not likely to be a problem, even in vehicles with SMART alternators.

    How you set up a vehicle to be able to separate the lithium auxiliary battery from any lead acid batteries ( including the cranking battery ) when the motor is not running, that is the only real issue.

    But there is a MAJOR potential problem when using a lithium battery as a cranking battery.

    Again, while charging the lithium from the alternator is not likely to pose a problem for a lithium cranking battery, but there is a very high possibility of damaging both the alternator and the vehicles electronics.

    The the problem is not from overloading the alternator but the exact opposite.

    There have been a number of issues where the lithium battery’s BMS has shutdown while the lithium cranking battery is being charged. Be it from over voltage, or the battery reaching a fully charged state, or the lithium battery’s BMS failing.

    Regardless of what causes the sudden shutdown, you now have a free-wheeling alternator, and in any situation, an alternator running without a battery connected to it, will allow the alternator to generate very high voltage spikes.

    These spikes are being generated by all alternators at all times, but the cranking battery, because of its very size, acts as a massive spike suppressor.

    With a lead acid cranking battery, even if it’s stuffed, it will still suppress these high voltage spike, and thus, protect the vehicle’s electronics.

    With the lithium cranking battery removed from the alternator, these high voltage spikes will quickly destroy a vehicle electronics, including the alternators voltage regulator.

    This is the REAL potential problem of using a lithium battery as a cranking battery and the potential of damage being caused, is even greater in newer vehicle, like Land Rovers, with their huge amount of electronics.


  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gregz View Post
    From the workshop manual....
    If a new battery is fitted to the vehicle, the BMS control module will require re-calibrating using a Land Rover approved diagnostic system.

    For our vehicles of this age, they use SDD. I dont think IID tool will do it.
    If you have an IIDtool then you could ask Gap if the tool supports it for your vehicle.
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    V10 Touregs had significantly lower power demands.
    EMS is but one ECM
    Touareg Battery Group 49 Battery, 110aH and 520 Amps and 12V 1000 CA, 850 CCA. This looks a higher spec than the Range Rover Sport?

    However I looked at my purchases and found I purchased a Varta Battery , Paid $400 back then so perhaps $600 is around the price today?

  8. #18
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    I paid $499 for my Varta G14 AGM. If you search you can find them on fleabay for that price. You can possibly get them cheaper but I was in a hurry.
    Fuji white RRS L494 AB

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geedublya View Post
    I paid $499 for my Varta G14 AGM. If you search you can find them on fleabay for that price. You can possibly get them cheaper but I was in a hurry.
    This is the D4 battery. Loads more RC....


  10. #20
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    Just a note that stop start isn't new my R50 which is now 12 years old had it. The great thing about VAG vehicles was you could use Ross Tec software to reprogram the stop start , I hate it !

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