Fitted LIPO4 Starter Batteries

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by drivesafe

Hi again Bails and thanks for the additional info.

First off, an apology as I gave you the wrong info on your RRS’s operating voltages.

You have a later version and your voltages will initially go as high as 14.8v but can drop to below 12.7v after just a few minutes. It all depends on the state of charge of your cranking battery when you first start your motor.

If your alternators voltage does not drop, there is something wrong with the RRS’s BMS.

I suggest you try monitoring your operating voltages with something like a BM2 battery monitor. This will give you graphs of you whole trip. You will see, with the lithium batteries fitted, your alternator voltage will still drop, but never below 13.2v.

SPECIAL NOTE, with lithium batteries, battery voltage is no indicator of the capacity of a lithium battery.

Next, I would suggest you set the DC/DC device in your van to IGNITION mode, not voltage.

Then use the FRIDGE output circuit in the rear of your RRS, to control the ignition input on your DC/DC device.

The FRIDGE output on your RRS is only on while your motor is running. Not while the ignition is on. So even if the voltage drops at the alternator, your DC/DC device will keep charging, as long as the motor is running.

Again, keep us informed.

---

The app does give graphs and info such as cranking data. The batteries are isolated as only the cranking battery shows cranking drain info.During start voltage drops to 10.31. The high CCA spins the motor up fast which is the only difference I can notice. I purchased 2 crank batteries even though it appears only one used however reading RR info seems both may be used in cold conditions. Also of note different voltages at start of charge indicating different levels of charge.

Just an update batteries now in for around 4 weeks, and no issues . The app , although not specific to LIPO batteries , shows the batteries as fully charged after time. If I have issues I will post to assist others who may want to do the same. I have wired the rear cig plug direct to the second battery, fused of course , and need to run the fridge to get a sense of how it will charge up . It may be possible to run a larger LIPO 4 battery however I chose to run two starter batteries as the RR spec said in my vehicle the aux battery is used in cold start situations.

Not using in car lithium but can confirm RRS running voltage at 14.6 for extended times and up to 14.9.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

Not using in car lithium but can confirm RRS running voltage at 14.6 for extended times and up to 14.9.

---

That model does not seem to to have a SMART alternator?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by drivesafe

That model does not seem to to have a SMART alternator?

---

Sorry Bails..

but how do I tell Tim?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

but how do I tell Tim?

---

Hi Pedro, and there are a number of factors that need to be known before you can get a true idea of whether your RRS has a SMART alternator operation.

If you are not driving much, the alternator voltage will remain high to try the charge and condition your cranking battery.

If your are doing a lot of short runs, same as above.

If your cranking battery is on its way out, same as above.

But if you are doing trips of more than 30 minutes at a time, and you have a SMART alternator, AFTER the first 30 minutes of the drive, your alternator voltage should drop, and it is not uncommon, depending on the state of charge of your cranking battery and if it is in good condition, for the voltage to drop down to the mid 13v or lower but this will also depend on whether your headlights are on or off.

There are other factors such as ambient temperatures that will effect the lower voltage level.

Watch the voltage within a couple of seconds of starting where the voltage won't be much then it will climb very quickly once the ECM decides that it can load the engine. Another check is to watch voltage while driving when the accelerator is floored as the voltage should drop while accelerating hard, then rise quickly if the accelerator is released.
I don't for a moment think that LR would have gone back to dumb charging.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Graeme

I don't for a moment think that LR would have gone back to dumb charging.

---

Neither do I.

The problem is that there are a number of different LR SMART alternator operations.

The latest will run the alternator at a higher voltage for what ever is decided to be enough to get the cranking battery to a near fully charged state.

The voltage might only run high for a few minutes or could stay high for long periods, all depending on the state of charge when the vehicle was first started.

The old LR SMART alternator function was to monitor the cranking battery for exactly 30 seconds after the motor is first started and then, based on how the cranking battery’s state was, the voltage will be set at what is required to charge the battery and this voltage will stay at that level for exactly 30 minutes, then drop.

My 2012 L322 TDV8's voltage is constantly changing.

Well all is still well with the LIPO4 Batteries. I have now put a shunt "Victron Smart Battery saver" in line to the feed for the DC 2 D charger in the van. So the Aux battery now supplies the van the Crank battery is now just the car battery.