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Thread: Leaky sunroof

  1. #1
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    Angry Leaky sunroof

    Cleaning out the boot of my car noticed the lining felt a little damp. Didn't really think too much of it, pulled it all out, cleaned out the spare wheel well, and called it a day. Didn't put any of it back, wanted to have a proper look in the morning

    Checked again this morning after last night's rain, the side lining on the right was quite wet. Pulled a few things apart to try and see where it was coming from, and found the broken off end of the sunroof drain. Presumable the passenger side is much the same, or not far off.

    20240714_103031.jpg

    Saw one video where the guy siliconed in a short length of copper pipe which seems like it would work well.

    It's in for a service this week, so I'll see what they have to say and if there's any other options to look at. In the mean time, I think I'll just find some decent weatherproof tape and seal up the sunroof

  2. #2
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    Broken or blocked drains are the cause of nearly all sunroof "leaks". Be careful that any tape you apply doesn't damage your finish, because lots of them will.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
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  3. #3
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    Yeah, I'm a little worried about when it comes time to take the tape off

    I've taken the roof rail cover things off and can see the drain hole and can get to it easily enough. Just need to work out how to attach the tube to the hole now.

    Possible idea, and I don't have the parts for it on hand but, tap out the hole and get a threaded hose barb to insert from the underside

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigWhiteDog View Post
    Yeah, I'm a little worried about when it comes time to take the tape off
    Hair dryer, and/or diluted eucalyptus oil, will help. Don't use full strength oil, it can harm the clear coat. Citrus oil can work too, same warning. Hot air guns are too hot, so care would be needed. They don't use them for paint stripping for no reason..

    Personally, I'd avoid tape if I could.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  5. #5
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    Definitely trying to avoid tape if I can. Just need to come up with some way to temporarily connect the drain tube to the sunroof tray.

    I could drill out the hole and silicone a poly hose barb in, but also don't want to make a more permanent fix harder with the temporary one. I'm really struggling to come up with something, my brain is taking the day off today

  6. #6
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    Temporary fix done!

    Drilled out the drain hole to 8mm and had some 8mm OD tubing that I pushed through and held in place with some butyl tape, hose clamped the drain tube to that as best I could. Poured a jug of water in the sunroof tray and it all ran out under the car

    Permanent fix will be a 1/8" BSP to 12mm hose barb. Just need to drill out the drain hole and tap it, then, hopefully, happy days

  7. #7
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    These fail due to steel drain in aluminium body. Dissimilar metals aren’t a good idea. The drain in my previous L494 leaked after I sold it and too k out the e-diff ECU. I have read of them causing major damage when they have leaked. So check them if you have a L494 or FFRR with a sunroof.
    Fuji white RRS L494 AB Gone
    2023 Ford Ranga

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geedublya View Post
    Dissimilar metals aren’t a good idea.
    Why not? They last the length of the warranty.....
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  9. #9
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    The whole sunroof drain tube is a poor solution to the problem. Even if everything is clear and clean, if more water enters the channel than can be drained out the tube it'll overflow into the car. There are multiple points of failure along the way: blocked tray openings, blocked tube, disconnected tube, blocked outlet, this corrosion problem.

    It would be much better to have the channels extend all the way to the end of the car and empty out into the rear hatch area (outside the seal, obviously). Wouldn't be as modular I guess, but would never leak into the cabin

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geedublya View Post
    These fail due to steel drain in aluminium body. Dissimilar metals aren’t a good idea. The drain in my previous L494 leaked after I sold it and too k out the e-diff ECU. I have read of them causing major damage when they have leaked. So check them if you have a L494 or FFRR with a sunroof.
    I've been thinking about the metal compatibility issue with how I was planning on fixing it. The solutions floating around the internet use either a brass screw in fitting, or a short length of copper tube with a flared end. Neither are very compatible with aluminium.

    I'm now thinking about using the flared copper tube method, but with aluminium tube. Not sure how easy it will be to flare the end of aluminium without cracking it though

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