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Thread: Dual battery & on-board compressor install, Discovery Sport

  1. #11
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    cable routing

    Hi Scott,

    very nice setup ! I am also looking to install a battery "under the floor ", and connect it via a DC-DC converter to the starter battery, in order to use the energy from the alternator to load this auxiliary battery. I am curious how did you do the routing of the cable from the starter battery to the battery in the rear ? Where is the cable going ?

    Regards,
    Nico

  2. #12
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    aboard Nico.

    Can I make a suggestion, if you are not in a hurry to have a dual battery system fitted, it may pay you to wait and get some advice on whether a DC/DC setup will be good for your vehicle.

    At this time, none of the DC/DC suppliers know how to setup a system in vehicles with STOP/START and there could be some serious implications for your starting battery caused by using a DC/DC devices in these vehicles.

    Just a suggestion.

  3. #13
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    Power source for DC-DC Converter

    Quote Originally Posted by Nico Verhelst View Post
    Hi Scott,

    very nice setup ! I am also looking to install a battery "under the floor ", and connect it via a DC-DC converter to the starter battery, in order to use the energy from the alternator to load this auxiliary battery. I am curious how did you do the routing of the cable from the starter battery to the battery in the rear ? Where is the cable going ?

    Regards,
    Nico
    Hi Nico,
    So after many fruitless hours trying to find a grommet or hole in the firewall, I decided to cheat and use the rear fusebox in the cargo area instead. If you remove the cover; you will find blank slots with no fuse and a single terminal. In the middle and top of the grey segment there is a high current terminal with constant 12 Volt. The easiest way of tapping into this is to use a dual fuse tap (Jaycar part number SF5115, and for a mini fuse part number SF5125). I was a bit nervous that the current draw may be too high, but it is <25 Amp at peak (with a Redarc DC-DC convertor), and there is no excess heat in any of the wiring.

    The tap for the switched 12 Volt can be found by probing with a multimeter in the blue section of the fusebox, the attached photo shows the point. Note that the power remains for about a minute after the engine is shut off.

    The return negative/earth is all routed to the metal "U" section around the fusebox.

    The whole setup has been stable driving daily for 6 months; with no error messages or other problems. The wiring and fusebox remains cool.fuse_take_off.jpgvoltmeter.jpgfinal_rear.jpgfuse_take_off.jpgvoltmeter.jpgfinal_rear.jpg

    The attached photos demonstrate the fusebox taps, the voltmeter displays for starting and auxiliary batteries (while charging), and the completed setup with fridge and Drifta drawers. Please PM me if you want to go through things further.
    Best,
    Scott

  4. #14
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    Hi Scott, did you by any chance see how thick the main supply cable is that supplies the rear fuse panel?

    Also, do you know if the suspension compressor is mounted in the rear?

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi Scott, did you by any chance see how thick the main supply cable is that supplies the rear fuse panel?

    Also, do you know if the suspension compressor is mounted in the rear?
    Hi Nico,
    The input cable to the fuse box is about 5 mm thick, and the fuse box has 40 amp fusible links, so there is plenty of capacity. The Discovery Sport does not have air suspension; so there is no compressor in the car.
    Best, Scott

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi Scott, did you by any chance see how thick the main supply cable is that supplies the rear fuse panel?

    Also, do you know if the suspension compressor is mounted in the rear?
    Only steel springs on Discovery Sport.

  7. #17
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    Yep, so far I have not had a chance to look at one in any detail yet.

    And this is why I have not been able to put a kit together yet.

    Thanks for the info Scott.

  8. #18
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    Talking

    Thanks a lot Scott for a very clear explanation !
    I am happy to read that it seems to work very well. And that no extra cable routing is necessary.... I will check it on my car, maybe will PM you if I would have further questions.

    Best regards
    Nico

  9. #19
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    Hi Scott and a big thanks for all the great info you provided during our phone conversation on Saturday and in this thread.


    You were saying you found a thick cable at the rear fuse panel but was not sure what actual size it was, and I was going to see if I could track down a wiring diagram for the Disco Sports.


    Well I have got on to one just for the rear fuse panel and if the cable you located at the back of the fuse panel is YELLOW, then it is a 6mm2 cable and is rated at about 45 amps constant load and should be fine for your setup.


    I have more details about the Sterling Battery to Battery charger we discussed, but I will cover it in the Verandah section, and it looks like I need another Guinea Pig to test this new DC/DC unit.


    More details about a Guinea Pig are located at


    https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l550-discovery-sport/253729-looking-discovery-sport-dbs-guinea-pigs.html

  10. #20
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    Dual battery and live power to the back

    Hi Guys
    I am about to take delivery of my Sport HSE and have found this thread very informative. As soon as I have the vehicle I will dig around in the fuse-box and find the live wires and attach a more robust fridge connector than the traditional 'cigarette lighter' connector.
    Has anyone had any other experiences with the dual battery than what has been discussed here - I am reluctant to start chopping out the Styrofoam on a brand new rig.
    Regards, John

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