Agree.. its a pretty ugly bull bar.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mamil
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Agree.. its a pretty ugly bull bar.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mamil
Hello All;
I have ben able to crack this (I think). You do need to drill into the front structural RHS section behind the plastic bumper.
If you remove the front grille (4 sacrificial clips, then pull the lower attachments forward, you will see a structural horizontal RHS section, approx 50 mm x 50 mm. I made some patterns for brackets to fit, which were then made by a local alloy fabrication business, shown in the attached photos. The bracket is an aluminium bar, 25 x 10 mm and 205 mm long. A 40 mm tube is welded to the end of the bracket that attaches to RHS section of the car. This tube acts as the standoff and needs to be exactly 90 mm from the base of the tube to the top of the 25 mm bar. To attach this to the car, drill an 8.5 mm hole in the bracket through the centre of the standoff, place the bracket so the end to which the lights attach protrudes through the lower vent below the grille, and drill a pilot hole through the RHS section, located where the bracket will mount. Enlarge to 7 mm (be patient, use lots of cutting oil!) and tap the hole to a M8 thread. The tap will need a long extension. The brackets are then mounted with a single 100 mm M8 high tensile bolt, and high strength thread lock. Use some anti-rust into the freshly cut threads before attaching the bracket. The RHS section is about 3.5 mm thick, so there is enough metal to cut a sufficient thread. The brackets protrude through the lower vent in the front by about 30 mm which is sufficient to mount the lights. They are quite sturdy with 10 x 25 mm aluminium and the lights mount securely with no wobble.
Attachment 144462Attachment 144463Attachment 144464Attachment 144465Attachment 144466
The electrics require finding the high high beam signal which is difficult. Instead, I used a Canbus interface (available from Soundlabs Group, Code: Beijer-CANBUS-Interface-Highbeam; no affiliation), which wires into the OBD interface. It gives a reliable 10-12 volt signal from the high beams which is sufficient to trigger a solid state relay (Jaycar SY-4086). I placed the switch on a carbon panel that replaces one of the central cupholders, along with some high output USB chargers and Merit sockets wired from my second battery. Running a wire from the cabin into the engine bay is a pain, in the end I routed the wire across the driver's door panel rather than risk poking through grommets. There is at least one disaster story on the web!!
The lights are rock steady with these mounts, and are a big improvement on standard high beams. It is not too difficult, but it is time consuming.
Hope this helps and good luck if you give it a try. Happy to answer any questions
That is really neat way of mounting the lights. I am going to attempt to remove the section of grill to look at the mounting points. The Canbus Interface is scarcely expensive, is it that risky taping into the high-beam feed that a $245 interface is required?Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott_Parkes
Yes, it's not cheap. But I probed around for a long time with a multimeter, and wasn't able to find the high beam signal at the lights, so I caved in!
S
Hi Scott,
Good wok, looks great.
Slightly off topic, what make is the Nudge bar and are you able to tell us where you got it from? Does it affect the approach angle?
Cheers,
Brad.
Hi Brad,
Thanks. The nudge bar was made in Launceston, by a local business called United Welding. They fabricated and installed the bar (they welded two brackets on the frame to mount it). There are probably similar businesses in most large towns. Approach angle not changed much at all.
Best
S
You know, I had not even noticed the nudge bar until you mentioned it, I had look back at Scott_Parkes post to see what you were talking about. That is a nice, discreet bar, probably just right for shopping trolleys.Quote:
Originally Posted by BradDS10
I might give United Welding a call and see if they kept the design or it was a once off.
Hi,Quote:
Originally Posted by badbaddog
I got a nudge bar from J and J in Brisbane (Thorneside) it is ADR compliant. the issue I am having now is getting the light bar wired in as my local LR dealer reckons it can’t be done. Im calling BS on that. I cant be the only person in Australia with a 2017 disco sport who wants better lighting and a UHF fitted..
Hi Josie,Quote:
Originally Posted by Josie
Following from your post I have enquired with J and J who confirmed they can supply and fit a 3inch polished nudge bar for the Discovery Sport. Was hoping you might confirm they provided a ADR certificate and also do you have any photos?
Regarding the wiring in of the light bar, I don't have one fitted however as the Discovery Sport has a CANBus electrical system you will need a CANBus High Beam interface to provide the high beam trigger. There is a mob called CANM8 that manufactures these if you google it.
Brad.
