Hello All;
I have ben able to crack this (I think). You do need to drill into the front structural RHS section behind the plastic bumper.
If you remove the front grille (4 sacrificial clips, then pull the lower attachments forward, you will see a structural horizontal RHS section, approx 50 mm x 50 mm. I made some patterns for brackets to fit, which were then made by a local alloy fabrication business, shown in the attached photos. The bracket is an aluminium bar, 25 x 10 mm and 205 mm long. A 40 mm tube is welded to the end of the bracket that attaches to RHS section of the car. This tube acts as the standoff and needs to be exactly 90 mm from the base of the tube to the top of the 25 mm bar. To attach this to the car, drill an 8.5 mm hole in the bracket through the centre of the standoff, place the bracket so the end to which the lights attach protrudes through the lower vent below the grille, and drill a pilot hole through the RHS section, located where the bracket will mount. Enlarge to 7 mm (be patient, use lots of cutting oil!) and tap the hole to a M8 thread. The tap will need a long extension. The brackets are then mounted with a single 100 mm M8 high tensile bolt, and high strength thread lock. Use some anti-rust into the freshly cut threads before attaching the bracket. The RHS section is about 3.5 mm thick, so there is enough metal to cut a sufficient thread. The brackets protrude through the lower vent in the front by about 30 mm which is sufficient to mount the lights. They are quite sturdy with 10 x 25 mm aluminium and the lights mount securely with no wobble.
light_mounting.jpglights_finished.jpgbracket.jpgbracket_2.jpgswitch.jpg
The electrics require finding the high high beam signal which is difficult. Instead, I used a Canbus interface (available from Soundlabs Group, Code: Beijer-CANBUS-Interface-Highbeam; no affiliation), which wires into the OBD interface. It gives a reliable 10-12 volt signal from the high beams which is sufficient to trigger a solid state relay (Jaycar SY-4086). I placed the switch on a carbon panel that replaces one of the central cupholders, along with some high output USB chargers and Merit sockets wired from my second battery. Running a wire from the cabin into the engine bay is a pain, in the end I routed the wire across the driver's door panel rather than risk poking through grommets. There is at least one disaster story on the web!!
The lights are rock steady with these mounts, and are a big improvement on standard high beams. It is not too difficult, but it is time consuming.
Hope this helps and good luck if you give it a try. Happy to answer any questions
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