Possible new Disco Sport soon.

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Originally Posted by scarry

I said in a thread of yours a while back you can't compare a Prado to a D4,there is just NO comparison[bigrolf]
You have been used to a vehicle that drives very well.

Anyway,can't you turn the adaptive CC off,and just use normal CC?
The CC on our LC200 works so much better than on our previous D4.
But it is not Adaptive.
FWIW,i followed a late model Audi back from Arrawarra at night last week,110Km/hr virtually all the way,and down every hill the brake lights were on,so seems that is what they do using CC.
The 200 changes down a gear,or two,it works brilliantly,where the D4 just ran away.

Anyway,horses for courses,good luck with the sport,but you are right,there are lots of horror stories around,but it could be specific models or years that had issues.
LR have a class action against them about timing chains in some models.

What about a Mitsy Sport,one of my Brothers has had a couple over the years,no issues,great car?

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My 8 speed Disco doesn't run away and changes down like your 'cruiser.
Maybe that was a function/design "problem" with the 6 speed ZF?

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Originally Posted by Discodicky

My 8 speed Disco doesn't run away and changes down like your 'cruiser.
Maybe that was a function/design "problem" with the 6 speed ZF?

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Great improvement over the 6 speed.
Did they sort the useless fuel burn read out to be better than 20 to 30% inaccurate,and the high beam assist that blinded oncoming drivers particularly in trucks before it activated?

Tins,I doubt the retarder would bring on the brake lights,but I suppose one never knows.

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Originally Posted by scarry;[URL="tel:3218606"

3218606[/URL]]

Tins,I doubt the retarder would bring on the brake lights,but I suppose one never knows.

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I know it does on Scania buses, for certain. It didn’t on the R730 I drove but it would be 10 years old now. There’s no reason why it wouldn’t on the newer ones, it’s all done in the computers. Ovlovs would be similar. A compliant dealer could probably program it out.

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Originally Posted by scarry

FWIW,some semi trailers also have the brakes on occasionally going down hills on the main HWY,so maybe that is CC doing it as well.

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Probably because the driver has put his foot on the brake. Trucks are governed to 100. On a down hill in a 62 ton Bdouble you can easily hit 110 in the blink of an eye.

And if Mr Plod is hanging around, a nice fine might result.

Ok, back to the original or near original question.

Any years, models etc. of Disco Sports that are more unreliable than others?

I read somewhere a new model came out in 2019, not sure which month?? Is this one no different from the earlier models??

Will be new to RR/LR when I purchase. Intend to use it on & off road. I just love the look of them & what they can do off road.

Totally got the heebie geebies after buying an Audi A3, $8K for the box, $7K for timing chain failure, $2K for computer that runs the interior lights.

Looking at 132kw/140kw? Diesel, hopefully serviced less K's/Time that required & country miles (Read about they need 30+km per trip or gets the DPF?? backflow into the sump). Replace timing chain by 100Km. What else????

Help, please?????

Cheers
ignatz

2019 (MY20) model is the Facelift model and has the upgraded chains etc. Mine is the D240HSE (177kw Twin Turbo Mild Hybrid). I love it..I have only had it about 4 weeks but have does 3000km in that time. Averaging 6.6 L/100km (mostly freeway speed but on 110kph via GPS).
My only issue is the JLR Tow package price is Extortion... $4300 supplied and installed but still needs the extra panel to be painted so probably $5K all up.
I have a Harman Reece coming for $1800 and I will fit is myself.. the electrics to operate as per JLR original are another $600 plus coding. Again I will do that myself.
Only other thing is the Piano Black dash areas and the infotainment screen suffer from finger marks... nothing a cloth wont fix though :)

Hi Andych,

I will probably purchase a 2017-Early2019 for now. If it is relatively trouble free I will consider the mild hybrid as a future purchase, so will to keep in contact for future reference, if you don't mind & will do some research to know what I'm talking about.

What is the milage you purchased & have you done a electric run out to test the current life/milage of the battery? Is it quite similar to the distance claimed when new by LR? Don't know if a vehicle inspection can fairly accurately test the battery life on a 2nd hand purchase? I would probably have to purchase older than 5yrs & would be concerned about battery life.

The HR for $1,800, do you still need the extra panel painted? I don't get it, do you have to remove a section of the bumper, cut it out & respray to fit HR?

With about $2.6K-$5K for a tow bar I need to allow that cost in the purchase &/or do a HR install myself.

Is the coding doable if one has their own coder?


Cheers

Paul

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ignatz

Hi Andych,

I will probably purchase a 2017-Early2019 for now. If it is relatively trouble free I will consider the mild hybrid as a future purchase, so will to keep in contact for future reference, if you don't mind & will do some research to know what I'm talking about.

What is the milage you purchased & have you done a electric run out to test the current life/milage of the battery? Is it quite similar to the distance claimed when new by LR? Don't know if a vehicle inspection can fairly accurately test the battery life on a 2nd hand purchase? I would probably have to purchase older than 5yrs & would be concerned about battery life.

The HR for $1,800, do you still need the extra panel painted? I don't get it, do you have to remove a section of the bumper, cut it out & respray to fit HR?

With about $2.6K-$5K for a tow bar I need to allow that cost in the purchase &/or do a HR install myself.

Is the coding doable if one has their own coder?


Cheers

Paul

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Do not buy 2017-2019. TBH I’m not sure I’d buy anything after 2016. 2016 had the old but reliable Freelander 2 engine. The ones that followed had the inigiboom engines. Horrendously unreliable. We have the 2016 in our stable and it’s rock solid. Maybe something late model might have resolved the issue - unsure. This came from my Indy who’s changed so many of the engines he can’t stand them

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ignatz

Hi Andych,

I will probably purchase a 2017-Early2019 for now. If it is relatively trouble free I will consider the mild hybrid as a future purchase, so will to keep in contact for future reference, if you don't mind & will do some research to know what I'm talking about.

What is the milage you purchased & have you done a electric run out to test the current life/milage of the battery? Is it quite similar to the distance claimed when new by LR? Don't know if a vehicle inspection can fairly accurately test the battery life on a 2nd hand purchase? I would probably have to purchase older than 5yrs & would be concerned about battery life.

The HR for $1,800, do you still need the extra panel painted? I don't get it, do you have to remove a section of the bumper, cut it out & respray to fit HR?

With about $2.6K-$5K for a tow bar I need to allow that cost in the purchase &/or do a HR install myself.

Is the coding doable if one has their own coder?


Cheers

Paul

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I bought mine with 46,000 km on the clock and had all te relevant LR Service records. Mine will be serived for Oil and filters every 10K and then the LR recommended services at the required intervals... Yes, there are some horror stories out there but plenty of positive ones as well.. with any vehicle you can have issues. Plenty will depend on how they are treated and driven.
Mine is a Mild Hybrid... in that when slowing down the engine will shut down (in auto stop start mode) under a certain kph and run on the battery and electric motor till you stop. I believe the electric motor assists when taking off as well but at no stage will it drive from a standing start on the electic motor alone. That is the Plug in Hybrid...
The HR tow bar doesnt need the extra panel but does require a small cut out in the rear beaver panel... clearance for the square receiver. They give accurate measurements in the instructions and if you are careful there is no need for painting.

I beleive coding will be relatively simple. I have purchased the Towing module (Land Rover part) 2nd hand from the UK and the relevant wiring harnesses form LR Direct. All will arrive here next week so I just need to get a clear weekend to fit it all up. I will take pics where I can.
Haymen Reese Dealer quoted me $2800 installed with non factory electrics.. this means you need to turn off the rear parking sensors manually from the dash...I wanted it to be as per factory.. so I am doing that pert myself.