And, the factory service schedule is not “arduous use”
Guess what arduous use is? It’s short runs, towing, long dusty trips - you know. All the stuff we do!
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And, the factory service schedule is not “arduous use”
Guess what arduous use is? It’s short runs, towing, long dusty trips - you know. All the stuff we do!
The first interim service was done today: 13000km and 12 months since delivery. Next due in 12 months or sooner.
It was an engine oil change including a filter and a "health check".
Interestingly, my typical trips are more than 100 km (country not city), so no Adblue top-up was required..... It's still showing a range of 9000 km!
The USB C port near the screen and two for the rear seats were installed (campaign item) without prompting.
The dealer service person was helpful in spite of her not wearing greasy overalls.
(This dealer also sells and services Grenadiers).
Do you have the service plan and was this part of it?Quote:
Originally Posted by one_iota
No I don't have a service plan. I have not inquired about one nor has one been offered. I chose to do this.Quote:
Originally Posted by jwb
The issue with diesel engine oil is not just about lubricating the bearings.
Diesel fuel is defined as light oil. And engine oil is also an oil. The problem being is that some diesel mixes into the lubrication oil. This dilutes the lubrication capability of the oil. Hence why it's best to change your oil more frequently.
And don't count on manufactures, whose higher priorities can interfere with long life. For instance, Toyota's 300 series recommends for Australia a 5w-20 engine oil. Which is not suitable for hard hot conditions while towing. Why do Toyota do that? Well, they want low pollution, and good fuel economy from official testing. They also say change at 10,000 KM, but if severe conditions (such as hot weather or towing) change at 5,000 KM.
So IMO Defender owners should change every 15,000 KM.
To remind owners - my D4 manual says change the transmission fluid at 217,000 km. Which is ludicrous - but the warranty for my vehicle expires (excluding age) at 214,000 KM. So when selling a vehicle, the service costs looked lower because the transmission fluid did not have to be included.
At a Land Rover club meeting years ago, we went to A&B in Dandenong Melbourne (they have a similar operation in Sydney) and they repair ZF gearboxes 9they have all the German ZF equipment to do so). They ridiculed Land Rover for the auto transmission service schedule. And when my vehicle was at less than 50,000KM, I asked my dealer for a price to change the transmission fluid. They quoted me $3,140. At 70,000 I had it changed by A7B, for $800, and I got a full report on the gearbox.
Don't listen to official recommendations. The issue though is whether a dealer would change the motor oil for the same price as a Land Rover Indy, because the record of changing the oil might be used by Land Rover if something goes wrong. Hopefully a dealer would change the fluid for a reasonable price.
Service interval on my P400SE is every 32000km. I think that's way to long even for a petrol with some tight tolerances.
I have the service plan and extended warranty, however for my own sanity I change the oil every 10000km. Car has now done 22000km including about 1500km towing a 2.7t van. First oil change at 10000km and the 0W20 that came out was nearly as black as diesel engine oil. My recent second change it was better, golden syrup colour. Sump holds 9l, hence the long intervals they say, but regardless that oil would ve very gnarly at 32000km. I bought a 20l drum of castrol Edge professional and 2 genuine LR oil and air filters. The next service will be dealer done then the next two will be mine and so on.
Dark oil is good. It’s better to have all the crud suspended in the fluid than sitting in crevices. You can’t avoid crud in the oil, but don’t believe an oil that is clean after a period of time is good - quite the opposite. An oil that suspends the crud also drains the crud when you change the oil.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE
Fully agreed DJ, when the Castrol 0W20 goes in,it's almost clear, so hard to see the level on the manual (!) dipstick. 10k kms later it's a whole lot darker shows it's doing it'd job.
I’d be seriously looking into a 0w-30 oil for our conditions.
The dealer used 0w-30 in my last service.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie