113-372

G'day All,
After fiddling with the tub for a period, I still needed to complete the strip down of 113-372, i.e to remove all other mechanical parts and store them in such a way so as not to hinder my progress, now I live on a small block so space is at a premium and is utilised to the max!!!.
I removed both differentials and front axles from their respective housings and found a space for them to co-exist with other stuff LOL
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282547119
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282547158
the rear axles were left in place as I didn't have any spare drive flanges to keep water out of the bearings, we have had a very wet time of it here in the Hunter Valley this year.
Next it was time to remove the transmission, I had found a rather large (extra) hole in the bellhousing, at the time I was unsure as to what had caused it, even after the transmission was out albeit in 2 pieces (I can't lift heavy objects, buggered back) it still wasn't obvious until the engine was out
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282548328
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282548870
on it's stand with the flywheel/clutch assembly dismantled, and lo n behold, in the crud from the leaking rear main bearing oil seal, I found what had caused the hole.
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282547565
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282547606
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282547642
the circlip on the end of the starter motor had let go at some time in it's past, this in turn let the Bendix Spring come off as well, it would have been picked up by the spinning clutch, and jammed/smashed a hole in the casing to get out and be free:p, it would have made an almighty racket in doing so wouldn't you agree, anyway cheers Dennis
ps more 2 come:eek:
pps the engine block was filled with water to keep the water pump seal viable,,.

G'day Dennis,
Great progress. This wasn't the one that you were working on the chassis of when I picked up the wheels for Dullbird was it?
P.S. Well done on all the photo posting too :)

G'day All, Yes that is the vehicle I have been playing with now for some months, uploading pix wasn't as difficult as I imagined either LOL.
Next in my sights was the bulkhead/firewall, in my opinion it is a basket case, it has major rust in the A pillars x 2, both footwells are shot, and it has severe rust problems across the top of the bulkhead under the windscreen seal, around the multiple panels that hold the vent openings, so I was also on the hunt for a suitable replacement but thats another story in itself.
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282552674
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282552709
both doors were similar, but doors and door tops are not a problem, I have many door frames and a couple of NOS ex-mil doortops.
With the bulkhead/firewall removed, all old brake pipes put in the garbage, all brake pipe clips and ancillary fittings collected/tagged n bagged, I moved the chassis to where my 110 usually parks up, it was looking a lot like rain at the time and I needed to get on with it,
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282553619
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282553665
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282553703
with the chassis at this stage (after removing front diff/assembly) attention was turned to removing the very stubborn steering relay, it has copious amounts of penetrene poured around it etc all to no avail, so on with the thinking cap to figure out a cheap n easy solution using materials at hand:angel: I only had to buy a couple of lengths of threaded rod and a heap of nuts,
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282554647
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282554690
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282554734
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282554770
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282556011
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282556046
as you can see I removed the relay, but at a cost, I now needed to replace the 2nd cross member (1st x member is the front bumper bar) the relay let go in spectacular fashion, with a very load rip/bang, and just for the curious amongst you, the porta-power is not pressing directly on the steering relay shaft, I machined a piece of steel to encompass the shaft and press on the body of the relay, anyway more to follow, cheers Dennis
ps Digger, my old mate
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282555253
'The Joker' I've had him for too many years LOL, I started putting him in the odd picture when I was rebuilding my 109 wksp truck, most times I'm usually reffering to the clowns in 'canbra' not the good citizens of the ACT cheers,,.

G'day All, I neede to move on the chassis, to repair it asap, so I could park my 110 out of the weather. I had a donor section from a S2A 109 ex-mil chassis, so out with a few extra tools from the shed, marking out where the chassis rail is situated mark lines and dot them with a center punch top n bottom so you know where it has to be;), then I measured between the chassis rails and cut a neat fitting heavy wall pipe, tack weld in place, out with the gas axe:o on the donor section first;)
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282557896

http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282558102
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282558145
and in the meantime, on days when I've been at work and can't afford to get too bloody dirty (I am a Reg/nse remember, skin integrity is paramount) I attend to all manner of little insignificant jobs of cleaning nuts n bolts, washers etc, in fact anything that has to go back on/into the Land Rover, all cleaned/grit blasted/etch primed some parts painted Gloss Black others left as 'etch primed' for a DBG top coat, all this work helps when putting it all back together rather quickly, I work like this most days, today being an exception, I had to babysit for a short period and it is rather cold n wet outside, bolts in this pic are through the chassis bolts to hold bulkhead/firewall support brackets,
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282558629
anyway cheers Dennis
ps my arthritic hands get a work out running taps n dies over countless numbers of nuts n bolts, I like the nuts n bolts to screw together without spanners, until the need to tighten up at jobs end,,.

Love your work Dennis.

Couple of nice miner's lamps there too.

Hi Dennis,

Top stuff mate, great work repairing the tub! what is the best way to remove spot welds? is there a correct tool?
thanks for the pics. watching your progress is getting me fired up for my new project, ARN 112-495

thumbs up,

Chris;)

G'day All,
Well looking through various files scattered in flashdrives,back up storage things etc, I came across a shot of 113-372 way back in 2000. Graham D. bought the Land Rover for me but I also had to do some remadial work to retain NSW rego, the chassis in the foreground is 112-587 aka 'Wee-Wullie' who coincidently was undergoing the same treatment as 113-372 is getting now.
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282639000
With the chassis repairs finalised it was moved sideways into the carport, where it was placed on it's rhs up off the concrete and secured to the carport supports, that where it stayed for some time.
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282639252
My attention went back to finishing the tub floor, I had trialled it for fit etc and was happy with what I had done, I needed to strip from the old floor all the strengthening stays x 3, straighten them out and re-use them,
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282639512

the galv steel supports were cleaned and with the assistance of my T/A aka wife LOL:p I drilled all the holes, countersunk them by hand
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282639579
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282640053
my hands were so sore after using this tool for a day, the steel supports are held in by these rivets
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282639644
it is a 2 person job to reset the rivets, I usually hand peen them to finish them off
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282639769
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282639812
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282639854
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282639889
still a long way to go yet,:( but getting closer by the day, cheers Dennis

Chris,

there are plenty of write ups about how to remove spot welds on the WWW but.....

A couple of hard & fast rules:
1. You need to drill out a spot weld (in steel) carefully. Only through the top layer of steel & not both layers welded together.

2. Carefully check the diameter of the welds (most are 1/4" in diameter)
You can use a 1/4" drill or a 5.5mm (nigh on the same size). to drill out the welds.

3. Using a centre punch LIGHTLY punch the centre of the spot weld. (the closer to exact you are the better IMO.)

4. Next using a small drill (say, 3mm) drill the hole down the thickness of one sheet of steel. This gives the 1/4" drill a guide hole.

5. Once all the spot welds are initially 'pilot hole' drilled through the upper layer of steel, next you use the 1/4" drill and drill all the holes again.

6. Now that this is done you need a wide bladed cold chisel (A long flat one is good) and gently tap (with an engineers ball pein hammer or similar) the two sheets apart as you never get all the spot weld out, this will break the remaining weld. PRACTICE on some scrap as it is a skill & not a given!

7. the two sheets will come apart SLOWLY dont force any sheet apart as you will damage the one you are trying to save/keep.

8. Always use a SHARP or NEW drill for these efforts. I have two drill bits for this job alone. They are not used for anything else.

9. If you lived in the USA you can get a spot weld cutter (tool) but they remove a lot more than drilling out the old weld. I am not fond of them as I prefer the way I was taught. The Old Fart method:cool:.

Also for every spot weld you can see there are usually tow or three you cant. ANY distortion on the metal can mean a spot weld. That is not fun.

As you can see in the photo attached it is a few hours work (like 14 hours) to just get a fairly straight forward piece out. BE PATIENT!:D The lower part is the underside of the dash, which is badly rusted but can still be used for a template and it cannot be removed until after the other new sheet is welded in. Otherwise there is not enough metal to 'pick up' a line and make the whole thing look as it did.

Ian

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chris1983rangie

Hi Dennis,

Top stuff mate, great work repairing the tub! what is the best way to remove spot welds? is there a correct tool?
thanks for the pics. watching your progress is getting me fired up for my new project, ARN 112-495

thumbs up,

Chris;)

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G'day All,
Whilst the chassis was leaning against the carport struts, work went on in a number of different areas, the transmission was reportedly in good condition, runs quiet etc, so me being me, pulled it down anyway, I knew about the big hole and what caused that, but I hadn't heard this vehicle run for almost 8 years,,
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282726131
that hole looks a lot bigger now :o, well thats scrap:(
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282726211
inside the G/box was nice n clean, no debris
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282726265
one of the flat syncro springs was missing though
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282726321
and the 2 piece circlip off the layshaft had mutated into 4 pieces:(, luckily I had a spare set, I replaced all 3 of the syncro springs, all bearings seemed to run smooth, no excessive play so fingers XXX'd, I reckon I will know when I drive it for the 1st time, cheers Dennis