Rear differential housing repairs.
G'day All,
My usual contacts for grit blasting large items were not available due to a rather bad mechanical malfunction on the 'Deutz' engine:(.
So after a lot of chasing around by phone I settled on another local company, but they couldn't fit it in for a couple of weeks, it seemed whatever I did I ran into obstacles:mad:.
Anyway in the meantime I had to make some repairs to rear diff/housing, the U bolts must have been loose at some stage, as they wore both locating holes out of round. The die grinder was out and small slithers of steel were flying, I had to watch for our little mutts making sure they were not around, as they are very inquisitive, Mig pressed into service and a short time later the finished job (which I dont have any pix of??)
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282978665
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282978709
I fitted the end plates to the housings along with a cardboard gasket in an effort to keep out the 'grit', the big hole was covered by several layers of cardboard, and funnily enough the masking tape has just enough spring (if the hose (grit blasting nozzle) is not directed onto it for extended periods of time) copper slag is very damaging to anything other than heavy steel, I did ask them to reduce the nozzle pressure, but I think it fell on deaf ears:mad: anyway it cleaned up all right in the end.
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282978750
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282979045
the surfaces were wire brushed to remove dust etc, etch primed and painted Gloss Black, then after a few days the bib was fitted to paint the diff/center white
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282979150
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282979190
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282979217
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282979744
all that was needed was to wait a few days, mask over the edge of the white area n respray Gloss Black, the front diff/housing did get the same treatment except for the 'white center' ,,. cheers Dennis
ps Korg, AFAIK, the 'staples' were not Brass, I've not come across brass ones in over 40 years of owning Land Rovers, hope thats of some help,,.
Chassis cleaning & painting
G'day All,
After many problems mainly associated with either transport (car trailer) not available or no-one able to help me lift/shift chassis etc, wet weather etc etc etc etc etc, a few months had gone by with little or no progress on the chassis, so I decided whilst the wife was away up in Rockhampton Qld, I would do the job myself at home.
I purchased another good quality angle grinder and 3 cup wire brushes, 50kg's of beach sand. It took me a few hours of jacking/packing the chassis to get it up on the 'spit'.
Many hours were spent removing crud etc off the rails, needle scale gun sure makes a racket:o on hollow chassis rails LOL:p, cup wire brushes remove dirt n grime easily, but I lost count of many times I was pierced by flying pieces of wire that separated from the cup brush, some even penetrating several layers of clothing:eek:.
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282983618
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282983667
after several days of cleaning wire brushing etc, I 'sand blasted' the troublesome spots, it took a while as I only have a small cfm compressor, the carport at the time looked like a beach, I swept it up as best I could, but even today 2 1/2 months later sand is still visible in places LOL.
I etch primed the chassis with 2 coats of Protec etch primer, let it set for 24 hours then hit it with the first coat of 'Gloss Black',
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282983894
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282983930
the chassis recieved another coat of 'Gloss Black' the next day, then I left it for 2 more days before the re-assembly process begins cheers Dennis:angel:
Re-assembling 113-372>>>rolling chassis
G'day All,
The focus now was to re-assemble the chassis asap, that would free up some space in the shed, what a mess it is:(.
The items went back into place very easily, as everything had been cleaned/grit blasted n painted etc, in my opinion this is the only way to do a rebuild and I must stress that by saying that, I'm not knocking any other members rebuilds this is my preffered way, at the end of day one I had both front n rear springs, diff/housings in place.
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282985217
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282985252
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282985282
now to make a heap of gaskets, I did consider making them beforehand, but given the crappy weather, I thought they could just curl up, anyway cheers Dennis
Getting 113-372 on wheels
G'day All,
113-372 was now ready to accept all the nessacery items to make it a rolling chassis again. front n rear differentials had been fitted, new axle oil seals to the front housing, the 2 spindle housings had been previously set up (bearing pre-load etc) gaskets made and re-attached to the diff/housing, front axles slid in and engaged the differential wheels, stub axle and hubs refitted to the front n rear, 113-372 was starting to look like a Land Rover once more, instead of piles of painted parts in boxes:D
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282986600
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282986632
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282986678
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1282986746
I figured at this rate I would have 113-372 in the backyard very soon, but I had to think of a way to keep the rain off though! cheers Dennis:angel:
Engine/transmission refit
G'day All,
The transmission had been reassembled and fitted to the chassis, it now was time for the engine to be mated with the transmission. I gathered the bits needed for my o/head lifting frame (it's kept in a dis-assembled state because I live on a compact block), the good wife was home to help me stand it up once assembled, wheel engine underneath, connect chain, hang chain block and it's in ;). The engine was painted before re-assembly of clutch/flywheel etc etc.
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1283061984
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1283062039
note the long studs x 4 these help align engine/transmission, when located and secured with a few nuts remove long studs and reset the 4 std studs, makes life a lot easier.
Now the engine was insitu, I had to make a core plug, the core plug I bought was too small to say the least, it rattled in the hole, it was supposed to be 1" x 16tpi, I used my 1' x 16tpi Conduit tap/s to re-establish the thread, and as I said the core plug rattled in the hole.
So I set about making one from Brass stock, note in next pic engine wasn't painted!!
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1283062922
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1283062588
the brass stock machined down to size, 16 tpi cut on the lathe, this pic shows under cutting of the thread, as I wanted to try it for size in the engine block, I marked the brass stock against No 1 jaw and removed it, to my horror it was too big!!:( thankfully I had marked it against No 1 jaw, but this now meant I had to chase the thread by hand, anyway to cut a long/boring story short, I managed to pick up the thread and by turning the chuck by hand I finished off the job and it did engage the thread in the block firmly, I was releived
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1283063038
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1283063322
in this pic you can see that the alloy plug is too small
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1283063382
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1283063440
finished and it doesn't leak, but as luck would have it, the steel welsh plug underneath it does leak, I tried to get Brass type welsh plugs but couldn't find any, not even in the UK, I still have 2 Brass ones I removed which didn't deform, so methinks one wet day in the not too distant future I will turn up a mandrel and resize the original Brass plugs, well thats the game plan at this stage;)
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1283063469
next step the crankshaft pulley, not the one pictured in pic 1 anyway cheers Dennis
Fitting Speedi-Sleeve to C/shaft pulley
G'day All,
The crankshaft pulley had a wear mark on it, so the story is, if you can feel it with your fingernail or basically see it (the wear mark) it will leak oil:( gauranteed:(:(, well mine was no exception it had a nice neat line.
I rang around seveal bearing suppliers to be told many stories about all sorts of things, I had miked it up at 1.915, one bloke had the temerity to tell me that the miked up size was on the extreme limit of the sleeve and it would split when fitted, so I went elsewhere, pricey little items at $81.00, well double row c/shaft pulleys aren't exzctly at every corner milk bar either:p.
The first problem I noticed was that the tool to fit the sleeve was going to be way too short :eek:, so I had a scab under the lathe (they seem to accumulate all sorts of items LOL) and I found a distance piece (in one piece I might add) so I put it in the lathe and bored it to clear the pulley's O/dia. I then needed to know how far to push the sleeve on, so I painted the inside of the pulley with never sieze (cleaned out the keyway first) and sprayed the pulley with WD40, then slipped it into place, the WD40 left a lovely surface mark where the seal was going to run, so armed with this information I set about pressing the sleeve into place.
the problem?? you can see the tool isn't long enough
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1283065631
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1283065704
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1283065741
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...9;t=1283065775
next in my sights was to order the wiring loom that runs through the chassis, so I can fit the tub asap after painting anyway cheers Dennis
**this isn't too boring is it??
