FFR Refurb

Brake pedal box re-fitted, managed to get material from Clark Rubber to make a gasket (but thanks Dan for offering to help).
Managed to get steering damper rubbers from SE Auto Imports (was Four Wheel Drives). Still selling LR parts but via website or Ebay, no personal callers (looks like they may have moved again).

Drivers side rear hub back together with new shoes, new hub seal and a coat of paint.
Crawled underneath this afternoon and fitted a replacement rear brake flexible hose. Four Wheel Drives used to keep extra long ones which suit military Land Rovers, can probably still get them from SE Auto.

One more hub to overhaul and then it's time to see if I can get the brakes working.


Colin

Contacted SE Auto and got the longer rear axle straps.
Originals were canvas folded twice to give three layers, must have been glued together as I can't see any stitching. All of my Land Rovers, even the Series I, have had the same canvas straps. The replacements are a thick conveyor belt type material with the edges sealed.

Getting close to bleeding the brakes, keep finding other jobs on other vehicles.

Then I need to get some doors on the shed and fit some windows so I can seriously think about re-fitting the canopy. I had the roof section replaced years back and haven't looked at the canopy since I got it back.


Colin

Brakes now bled & working.
Managed to bleed them on my own then moved the FFR to the main driveway so I could adjust the brakes. First applied the brakes hard several times to centralise the shoes then adjusted.

The rear brake shoes have the pins for the adjusters in the same position on both shoes (no difference between leading or trailing shoe), they adjusted up OK. While going through the shoes I have 'in stock' I found that the pattern ones had about 20% less lining than the originals !!
The shoes I fitted were from an Australian supplier that re-line shoes locally and get the shoes re-made. Somewhere along the track the adjuster pins have been specified to be in the same position.....interestingly they adjust OK.

Removed the temporary (years ago) fitted passenger door and fitted the re-painted door and refurbished door top. Then removed the drivers door and fitted a temporary one. Also did some panel beating on a crease in the body just behind the passenger door.
Bottom edge of the door I removed had been bogged. Removed this and think I can get away with a couple of patches rather than de-skinning, replacing the frame lower section, then re-skinning. I'll pour some paint into the frame and spread it around to try and hold back further corrosion.
Door top already refurbished and ready to fit once I've repaired & painted the door bottom.
Checking round the sheds I found that I've acquired a few doors over the years, all need repairs and not one good doortop among them. also found a couple of good Station Wagon rear passenger doors, I must repair a couple of holes in them so they can be spares for the Dormobile.

Removed the covers over the bellhousing. A couple of cracks to weld up and some panel beating where someone in the past has levered them off. Also removed the passenger floor which looks like it had been hit underneath with a stick when offroading.

Need to head outside and tidy up the garden after the wind last night, now where's that chainsaw.....


Colin

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gromit

Brakes now bled & working.
Managed to bleed them on my own then moved the FFR to the main driveway so I could adjust the brakes. First applied the brakes hard several times to centralise the shoes then adjusted.

The rear brake shoes have the pins for the adjusters in the same position on both shoes (no difference between leading or trailing shoe), they adjusted up OK. While going through the shoes I have 'in stock' I found that the pattern ones had about 20% less lining than the originals !!
The shoes I fitted were from an Australian supplier that re-line shoes locally and get the shoes re-made. Somewhere along the track the adjuster pins have been specified to be in the same position.....interestingly they adjust OK.

Removed the temporary (years ago) fitted passenger door and fitted the re-painted door and refurbished door top. Then removed the drivers door and fitted a temporary one. Also did some panel beating on a crease in the body just behind the passenger door.
Bottom edge of the door I removed had been bogged. Removed this and think I can get away with a couple of patches rather than de-skinning, replacing the frame lower section, then re-skinning. I'll pour some paint into the frame and spread it around to try and hold back further corrosion.
Door top already refurbished and ready to fit once I've repaired & painted the door bottom.
Checking round the sheds I found that I've acquired a few doors over the years, all need repairs and not one good doortop among them. also found a couple of good Station Wagon rear passenger doors, I must repair a couple of holes in them so they can be spares for the Dormobile.

Removed the covers over the bellhousing. A couple of cracks to weld up and some panel beating where someone in the past has levered them off. Also removed the passenger floor which looks like it had been hit underneath with a stick when offroading.

Need to head outside and tidy up the garden after the wind last night, now where's that chainsaw.....


Colin

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It appears you have Land Rovers coming out of the woodwork.[bigrolf]


Remember, it will all be worth it, one day.

I'm back at work full time now so less time to spend working on Land Rovers but at least there is now some daylight left when I get home at night.

Managed to paint the drivers door bottom, bellhousing covers and floor panels plus a couple of parts for the IIa. The shed is 'busy' at the best of times but with all the parts hanging to dry I'll find somewhere else to work for a day or so.
The Protec paint is touch dry quickly but being enamel takes a while to fully cure.


Colin

I've been deliberating over the seat covers. I have the vinyl and also some thin foam and really want to sew ribs as they were originally done.
I keep putting it off so instead decided to re-fit the bumper & brushbar today.
The bumper was straightened and along with the brushbar was painted ages ago just haven't found the time to re-fit.

First problem, the ignition switch jammed. Whatever I did it wouldn't turn !
OK, time to strip the covers around the steering column and remove the switch (it's a rotary one, no key, as originally fitted). Found the hole which allows you to release the rotary knob, knob came out and the spring and small disc of metal that holds it in place to extend the pin were deposited into the footwell !!!.
Make note of wiring colours/pin numbers and remove switch,

First job, get the spring back into the rotary knob, stick the tiny disc in place and peen material over to hold it in place. After a few curses move on to the ignition switch.
The switch is not designed to come apart but by bending back 3 tabs it sprung apart (bugger) and I found that it had ingested water in a previous life and was corroded internally.
Cleaned it then had several goes to get it back together, a few bits of plastic broke off the body but it sort of went back together after some more cursing.
It sort of works, managed to get the FFR started and move it out of the shed.

Next problem, where are the bumper bolts ? Eventually found some new ones and used them instead.

Brushbar fitted after cleaning up the bolt threads, then with a small paintbrush applied some olive drab to all the bolt heads.

Now need to look for a replacement ignition switch.


Colin

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gromit

I've been deliberating over the seat covers. I have the vinyl and also some thin foam and really want to sew ribs as they were originally done.
I keep putting it off so instead decided to re-fit the bumper & brushbar today.
The bumper was straightened and along with the brushbar was painted ages ago just haven't found the time to re-fit.

First problem, the ignition switch jammed. Whatever I did it wouldn't turn !
OK, time to strip the covers around the steering column and remove the switch (it's a rotary one, no key, as originally fitted). Found the hole which allows you to release the rotary knob, knob came out and the spring and small disc of metal that holds it in place to extend the pin were deposited into the footwell !!!.
Make note of wiring colours/pin numbers and remove switch,

First job, get the spring back into the rotary knob, stick the tiny disc in place and peen material over to hold it in place. After a few curses move on to the ignition switch.
The switch is not designed to come apart but by bending back 3 tabs it sprung apart (bugger) and I found that it had ingested water in a previous life and was corroded internally.
Cleaned it then had several goes to get it back together, a few bits of plastic broke off the body but it sort of went back together after some more cursing.
It sort of works, managed to get the FFR started and move it out of the shed.

Next problem, where are the bumper bolts ? Eventually found some new ones and used them instead.

Brushbar fitted after cleaning up the bolt threads, then with a small paintbrush applied some olive drab to all the bolt heads.

Now need to look for a replacement ignition switch.


Colin

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I can't assist with your immediate problem Colin, but at the very least I can offer commiserations. I had strife with the old S2A bulkhead mounted push Starter switch which sprung/sprang apart. Seems you need about 5 hands/25 fingers to fit these riveted assemblies back together. My one was ok for a while but I had strong suspicions about it's life so eventually ordered a new one which in turn failed under Warranty which was freely replaced without an argument or requiring the faulty one back.

Feels like it should now & slides easily. Some sellers reject any warranty on any Electrical Parts but I doubt whether that is legal these days. It was a Britpart component.

Best wishes with yours.

I think I've tracked down the part number for the ignition switch.
There seem to be identical looking switches but some are 4-position, some are 3-position.

I'm after a 3-position OFF, ON, START. The 4-position has another position anti clockwise (can't remove the key in this position).
Part Number 3-position seems to be Lucas 31973.

Most other numbers I've found are for the 4-position switch.


Colin

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gromit

I think I've tracked down the part number for the ignition switch.
There seem to be identical looking switches but some are 4-position, some are 3-position.

I'm after a 3-position OFF, ON, START. The 4-position has another position anti clockwise (can't remove the key in this position).
Part Number 3-position seems to be Lucas 31973.

Most other numbers I've found are for the 4-position switch.


Colin

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You can see the sense of the Army not having an ignition Key.

"Right lads we are evacuating this position urgently. Now, who has the key?[bigrolf]

"Not me Sir". "Nor me, Sir but I think Smithy had it last, but lost it down the Latrine."


Your persistence will pay off, Colin. (Dips lid)[smilebigeye]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 4bee

Your persistence will pay off, Colin. (Dips lid)[smilebigeye]

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As you can see from the beginning of this thread it's taking a while.

Several vehicles to keep on-the-road, trying to restore/re-commission several others, kids getting cars and wanting help. Still it's a hobby, keeps me out in the shed away from SWMBO.....


Colin