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Thread: FFR Refurb

  1. #91
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,314
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    Bled the brakes & clutch over Christmas then the master cylinder decided to leak !

    Turns out the two spigots on the master cylinder reservoir that fit into rubber seals had pushed the seals away and hadn't sealed.
    Off with the master cylinder, fix the problem then re-install and next time it's out of the shed bleed the brakes again.

    Then spent some time chasing electrical issues, still trying to find where the brake light signal is disappearing. I have a horrible feeling it's a break in the wiring section inside the chassis rail !
    More investigation needed.

    Re-fitted the Jerry can holders and made seals for the reverse lights from some thin closed cell foam.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  2. #92
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Adelaide Hills. South Australia
    Posts
    13,143
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    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post
    Bled the brakes & clutch over Christmas then the master cylinder decided to leak !

    Turns out the two spigots on the master cylinder reservoir that fit into rubber seals had pushed the seals away and hadn't sealed.
    Off with the master cylinder, fix the problem then re-install and next time it's out of the shed bleed the brakes again.

    Then spent some time chasing electrical issues, still trying to find where the brake light signal is disappearing. I have a horrible feeling it's a break in the wiring section inside the chassis rail !
    More investigation needed.

    Re-fitted the Jerry can holders and made seals for the reverse lights from some thin closed cell foam.





    Colin
    Can you bypass that cable with a single wire for now just to test?

  3. #93
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,314
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4bee View Post
    Can you bypass that cable with a single wire for now just to test?
    I've effectively done that.
    Checked power at the start and provided power to the rear connector and the brake lights come on.
    When I get time I need to see if the break is where it goes into or comes out of the chassis so it could be repaired.
    Otherwise I'll make up a new harness and use the old one to pull it through.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  4. #94
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Adelaide Hills. South Australia
    Posts
    13,143
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post
    I've effectively done that.
    Checked power at the start and provided power to the rear connector and the brake lights come on.
    When I get time I need to see if the break is where it goes into or comes out of the chassis so it could be repaired.
    Otherwise I'll make up a new harness and use the old one to pull it through.


    Colin
    Great, the ends do seem to be a bit vulnerable if hit by a rock or summat & add to that, that cable seems to be very brittle with age.

  5. #95
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,314
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Rolling around under the FFR trying to resolve one problem I found another.....

    Noticed oil dribbling from behind the transmission brake !!
    At least the 'catcher' on the inside was doing it's job keeping oil away from the drum & shoes.

    Propshaft out, strip the handbrake drum & mounting off, replace seal (stock item). Quick repaint of the drum and re-install everything......

    Brake light wiring is intact, it seems to be the switch in the brake hydraulic line. The signal goes though a pressure switch, a mechanical switch and is also affected by turning on the Blackout Lights.

    The pressure switch isn't a standard Land Rover item so more investigation needed.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

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