2a GS Refurb ARN 178-334

This and the FFR have been on the backburner for some time. It's started and run regularly, even driven around the garden to splash some oil around.

The fuel supply issue turned out to be very, very old fuel that had turned to varnish. The dip tube in the tank was almost completely blocked where the fuel was sucked up, lined the inside, then drained back to tank and when re-started it laid down another layer until the pipe was almost blocked.
The valves in the fuel pump were sticking closed so I had to pull the pump apart every time I wanted to start it !

Anyway, fuel tank out, cleaned & de-rusted. It's ready to go back when I get a moment in the meantime fuel is supplied from a plastic bottle.

The original axles were supplied with it (those fitted were from another vehicle) and I stored them off the ground under a tarp. Last weekend I decided to pull out the front axle & overhaul it. Got it into the garage and drained the oil and water came out !!! Not sure whether it's condensation buildup or whether there was water inside when I collected them. Diff sounds a bit 'crunchy' so I'll probably have to replace it plus the first swivel hub bearing I've taken apart is pitted ! The oil/grease mixture inside seems to have prevented too much rust.

Note to self : If you get things like axles and you don't know how they have been stored drain them and add some oil and roll it around to distribute over everything inside......

I have a spare pair of doors that I'm rebuilding because the bottom edge was rusted out and new Series II doortops.

Repairs starting on the doors.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...17/05/1087.jpgDSCN4216 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

Temporary fuel supply

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...17/05/1088.jpgDSCN3537 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

Axle getting stripped (apologies for the picture quality).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...17/05/1089.jpgDSCN4333 by Colin Radley, on Flickr



Colin

Because there was water in the swivel housing the taper roller bearing the swivel pivots on was rusty, nothing serious but while it's stripped down I though it best to replace it.

To drift the taper roller outer race out you need to press out the Railco bush first then make up a drift to go through the hole vacated by the Railco. The quicker/simpler option is to run a bead of weld round the outer race and, as if by magic, it falls out.
I've done this before and if you're not careful you end up with weld spatter on the chrome or inside the swivel. You can buy anti-spatter spray but I don't have any. The solution was to cut a piece of aluminium to sit over the outer race with another piece to sit underneath so any spatter hits the aluminium.
I happened to have some aluminium in a Land Rover colour......

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...17/05/1094.jpgDSCN4336 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

Worked a treat and will, I'm sure, come in handy when I do the other side !


Colin

That is ingenious! Well done! You don't have to make up a special drift. Last time I did it I simply used a brass drift, working round the circumference - brass means you don't have to worry about damaging the ball.

John

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

That is ingenious! Well done! You don't have to make up a special drift. Last time I did it I simply used a brass drift, working round the circumference - brass means you don't have to worry about damaging the ball.

John

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Thanks John,

I used to do much the same. Then I found that if you turn up something the right size it goes in (or out) with a few pumps of the hydraulic press, plus you make sure it's evenly pressed home.
Access to the lower swivel bearing outer is very restricted and there is only a mm or so of outer race to 'hit', even with the Railco removed you might struggle with a drift.

Working in the pneumatics industry I have access to lots of different sizes of aluminium extrusion that come in handy. When turned down even if it only touches in four spots it makes life easier with the press......

Colin

I've been cleaning, painting & finding parts to complete the front axle.
There were backplates but no slave cylinders or drums, fortunately I had those 'in stock' plus some new brake shoes.
Stripping the slave cylinders down I found one with a cup seal and the other three with an annular seal. One bleed nipple was the ball bearing type but no ball bearing....it had been screwed down till the hex head hit the body of the slave cylinder (i wonder if it sealed).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...17/05/1092.jpgDSCN4348 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...17/05/1093.jpgDSCN4347 by Colin Radley, on Flickr



Colin

Swivels rebuilt with new taper roller bearings, the Railco's were OK. Pre-load set and new seals fitted.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...17/05/1090.jpgDSCN4409 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

Made a plywood disc to blank off the axle while removing flaking olive drab paint.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...17/05/1091.jpgDSCN4407 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

Diff is probably past saving (rusty crownwheel & pinion) so looking for a replacement.


Colin

G'day Grommet

Have you given and thought to using 4.1 ratio diff centres in it, I have 4.1's in my Lightweight,gives good road speed with less strain on the 2.25 engine,but you will probably have to fit a brake booster,either a remote (passengers side) PBR VH-44,or use a Series 3 brake unit,then you can either use a single system or go the split system(safer than single) if going to a series 3 unit you will need the top panel of a S3 guard as it has the cut-a-way for the booster, hope that has given you a couple of ideas,as when I finish the re-build of my 68 model 2a (172-484) I will be using my VH-44.

cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by UncleHo

G'day Grommet

Have you given and thought to using 4.1 ratio diff centres in it, I have 4.1's in my Lightweight,gives good road speed with less strain on the 2.25 engine,but you will probably have to fit a brake booster,either a remote (passengers side) PBR VH-44,or use a Series 3 brake unit,then you can either use a single system or go the split system(safer than single) if going to a series 3 unit you will need the top panel of a S3 guard as it has the cut-a-way for the booster, hope that has given you a couple of ideas,as when I finish the re-build of my 68 model 2a (172-484) I will be using my VH-44.

cheers

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UncleHo,
I'll probably stick with standard diffs as this won't see too much long distance work.
My Series I is on standard diffs and 50mph was achieved for long distances going to Cooma in 2008. Got to 55mph a couple of times but the Father-in-Law was giving me dirty looks and shouted something about going home on a tilt-tray.......

I do have a couple of VH44's so I might get one overhauled and fit it in the future.

A fellow forum member offered a diff from a car on his property. Took it out at the weekend, some wear on the crownwheel & pinion but thought it would be OK if freewheel hubs fitted and only used when needed. Cleaned it up tonight and a piece of a fibre shim from behind one of the spider gears fell out !! Looks like I'm searching for another diff.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/06/595.jpgDSCN4416 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/06/596.jpgDSCN4413 by Colin Radley, on Flickr


Colin

The replacement for the replacement diff turned out to be in good condition (thanks Steve).
Took a bit of getting out of the vehicle with bolts that were a struggle to undo in the cold & wet but the diff was full of clean oil and the crownwheel & pinion didn't have any detectable wear.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/06/593.jpgDSCN4424 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

Cleaned several kilos of oily mud off the outside (used clingfilm to keep the dirt out while I got it home) and fitted it into the axle tonight and painted it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/06/594.jpgDSCN4427 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

Once the front axle is completed I'll have to start on the rear......hopefully there's no water in this one otherwise I'll probably be looking for another diff !


Colin

So this will be ready for Corowa right? [bigwhistle]