Opinion needed

I'm still in wonderland, ??? wondering where to look next:(:(, I have replaced the plugs x 4, 4 leads 1 distributor cap. I know the coil and the carburetor that I'm using ATM are in reasonable working condition as I took them off a known working engine:):).
This is what I see when using my timing light. I set the timing 'static' at 3deg BTDC set the points etc, start the engine and the timing light will show the white paint dot in more or less the correct place, increase the engine revolutions and to me it appears to be ?? retarded to blazes??? see image
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps7cb79abd.jpg
I have loosened the clamp around the base of the distributor and turned it both ways, but have left it where the engine smoothed out 'kinda sorta', listen to the clip it is running rough, you can just see the white timing mark at times just below the hex nut on the alternator @ around the 2 second mark
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iim8kUrsfHA&feature=youtu.be[/ame]
I need to have this running ASAP but I feel it ain't gonna happen :(:(:(:mad: with self, grumpy grumpy:( Dennis:rocket:

I can't see the timing from your video, but what I do see is that there seem to be erratic flashes, suggesting an ignition problem such as a loose connection or a faulty HT lead.

Your diagram shows the spark is advancing with increased rpm, not retarding, as it should do. As speed increases the spark is happening a greater distance before the mark gets to TDC.

I don't have a feel for whether the amount of advance is appropriate.

You replaced 4 x HT leads - how about the coil lead?

John

I have re-checked the compression this morning
No 1 145psi
No 2 140psi
No 3 145psi
No 4 150psi
Dwell angle approx. 58deg
bought No1 piston up, inlet & exhaust valves closed, rockers moving with approx. .010 clearance, timing mark on C/shaft pulley @ 3deg BTDC, rotor button almost opposite or maybe just past the No1 plug lead, ? points still open at that point
The engine has new rings, timing chain, deglaze, seals, gaskets, etc, the cylinder head has been lightly skimmed, valves lapped, valve stem oil seals, new plugs, all leads and distributor cap are all OK, coil & carburetor came off a known good running engine, I'm still at a loss as to why the engine still runs rough.
I have fiddled also this morning with the air volume screw (Zenith carburetor 36IV) it made no real difference until it was screwed almost right in, so that was put back where it was originally.
I have also moved the distributor around with the engine running, too far one direction and it slows down runs very rough, ditto when you take it too far the other way,so at present it is running where the engine runs smoother but still rough.
The points have been filed n gapped, they are not the best, but appear to be OK to me ( nearest place I can get points is a 75k's round trip, that might be happening later)
The strobe (timing light is a cheaper type) but I suppose it has to meet a certain standard before it can be sold here in Oz, the plug leads are in the correct firing order 1-3-4-2, the distributor is a Lucas 45D4 anyway I'm still doing this :(:(:mad: cheers Dennis:angel:

Check for inlet manifold leaks - with the engine running, squirt oil on the junction between the manifold and head, and between the carbie and manifold. If there is a leak it will be temporarily blocked and you will hear the difference.

John

This morning I managed to get a set of points (sheer luck) at a local auto shop in Kurri, after re-setting the timing @ 6deg BTDC, fit the points gapped @ 15thou. From another forum (Series 2 club) I was told to check that the vacuum advance was working, so I set about that very quickly
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XURLzXZpmI0&list=UUDUQng9nBYUyOD1OEO5jbDw[/ame]
with that having checked out as OK, I had an early lunch.
Around 1230hrs I had a phone call from Gary C and re-enforced what JDNSW had stated here to check for air leaks, I did just that.
I removed the nipple (brake vacuum tube) that I had blocked with a 1/4" bolt, checked for anything else that I thought could cause the engine to run rough, fingers XXX'd the good wife started the engine, and it ran fairly smooth, it will now idle
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dxUXU8bK4X4&list=UUDUQng9nBYUyOD1OEO5jbDw[/ame]
although I didn't let it show in the clip, now to have somebody who knows more than me have a look at it, and if it's OK I can then let the engine warm up, then I can retension the head and set the tappets, fit the rocker cover take it for a drive, anyway cheers Dennis:angel:

Well it's almost a completed task now, yesterday morning I had the engine running for approx. 25minutes to warm it up, re-tensioned the head, re-set the tappets, fitted the rocker cover, air cleaner n tube etc, then I noticed a small pool of oil on the concrete under the engine, AAHHHGGG!! first thought was rear main bearing oil seal not working, but after getting on the creeper armed with a torch I realized that it was oil that had pooled yesterday morning and spilled out over the back of the engine, running with no tappet cover on, phew,,.
This morning I changed carburetor's put the new one on, adjusted the idle, ready to go for a run, the only task left was re-connect the lights on the LHS guard, wrong, I should have had my glasses on, as I earthed out a lead charged with 12 volts, no big deal I thought, but the lights would not work:(:(, fuses checked under the bonnet all OK, I removed the screws that hold the dash in place, checked the light switch for power etc all good there, so stupidly I put the dash back together.
Still scratching my head, no power at the junction near the battery, so I added a wire and presto the lights came on[bigwhistle], then the penny dropped in my head. The vehicle is fitted with a Series 3 wiring harness, the lights have a separate fuse behind the dash
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps77560319.jpg
so back out with it, and sure enough the fuse was blown:(:(:mad:, that replaced everything now works, move a few vehicles, and carefully reverse it out of the yard, the vehicle just clears the gates with approx. 25mm each side, I'm suitably impressed with it's performance, even though I didn't get it over 60kph, now only need to have the exhaust engine pipe fully welded.
Next task this afternoon was to take my Series 2 for a run, as it has not moved etc for 4 months, I had to help it along with a drink down the throat of the carburetor and it burst into life, a short run of approx. 6 k's and back into the shed n covered up, anyway that's been my day;) cheers Dennis:angel:

It runs reasonably smooth now, only task to complete is welding the exhaust fully (engine pipe) I cannot do it lying on my side, it needs to be on a hoist, the engine starts with just a whisk of choke (using a zip tie loop ATM) here is a short clip of it starting from cold
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=snBm1vmKSLM&list=UUDUQng9nBYUyOD1OEO5jbDw[/ame]
I did manage to take it for a short run on Sunday afternoon, it is a tad quicker than the diesel, anyway Thanks for all the help/suggestions/advice from forum members, cheers Dennis

I think I had a question posed by ? Mick88 re the engine pipe being very close to the PTO drive shaft, well yes it is very close but it does have enough clearance, so far I have not heard it hit/tap the drive shaft, hope that's of some help cheers Dennis:angel:

Thanks for that Dennis, that was me!

Lots of us Mikes, Micks, etc around.:D

I thought you meant that you needed to modify the down pipe a bit to clear the drive shaft, glad to hear that this is unnecessary.

My much abused farm ute 2A GS has a down pipe that does hit the shaft, due I think to tired engine mounts and a dodgy previous owner exhaust system.

Still, that's a minor issue compared to some of the other bodges from its past owners.

Cheers,

Mike.