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Thread: Keyed ignition

  1. #1
    Perentie Brad Guest

    Keyed ignition

    Hi All,
    Tried fitting a keyed ignition unit to my 6 bee, it would appear the switch wiring is slightly different to the Army keyless unit.
    The keyless was.
    1 Brown
    2 white/black
    3 white/red
    4 white (Accessories I'm fairly sure)
    5 Red ?? its hard to tell
    swapping straight over it cranks but wont start.
    Any advice appreciated.
    Brad

  2. #2
    Perentie Brad Guest

    Keyless to keyed

    HI All,
    Pinned it out today, all good will post results if anyone needs them.
    Brad.

  3. #3
    Bearman's Avatar
    Bearman is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    Yes please Brad.
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

  4. #4
    Perentie Brad Guest

    Keyless to keyed

    Terminals as follows the first number is the keyless barrel and the second is the corresponding terminal on a 110 Defender keyed barrel, take the wire off the first terminal number and straight onto its new number.
    keyless keyed
    1 to 5 hot
    2 to 3
    3 to 4
    4 to 1
    5 to 2

    Hope this helps if anyone changes over, can't guarantee it is the same for all barrels, it is also not as straight forward a job as I thought it was, had to drastically modify the original steering column saddle to clamp the new unit in place and remove the instrument housing for access.

    Cheers

  5. #5
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    Good info, thanks!
    Phil B

    Custodian of:
    1974 S3 swb wagon (sold)
    1978 S3 swb canvas
    48 749 '88 4x4 Perentie
    1985 County with 4BD1T

  6. #6
    Perentie Brad Guest

    Follow up

    Foot note to the above post All Four x 4 spares have the saddle to clamp the keyed ignition barrel to the steering shaft for $20 this would have saved me about 3 hours of modification had I known before hand. I'll fitt one to make it look better

  7. #7
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    Hi All
    I have changed the non keyed to keys only on 6x6 Perenties, with just replacing with key barrels . Both in the ignition and door locks. It requires some machining to the original ignition lock . The locks on the doors need to come out and a weld that stops the internal moving have to be ground out GENTLY. The external door handles have to be changed as they don't have a small extention attached. Also a short wire connection has to be used to connect to the internal locking tab.
    I have all the numbers for parts required if anyone wants .At the workshop out of town. The cost is about $50 for the bits. To machine the existing ignition lock body is very simple. It is really a collet to hold it in the the lathe
    I have another one to do soon, if any one want I will document [photo]
    The whole job takes about 3 hours if I work at it.
    Cheers Demo

  8. #8
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    Forgot to say that $ include 3 keyed alike barrels

  9. #9
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    normie

    Quote Originally Posted by Perentie Brad View Post
    Hi All,
    Tried fitting a keyed ignition unit to my 6 bee, it would appear the switch wiring is slightly different to the Army keyless unit.
    The keyless was.
    1 Brown
    2 white/black
    3 white/red
    4 white (Accessories I'm fairly sure)
    5 Red ?? its hard to tell
    swapping straight over it cranks but wont start.
    Any advice appreciated.
    Brad
    Why dont you just pop out the barrel on the keyless one and in with the keyed barrel

  10. #10
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    demo

    Just a note. The keyles barrel is to big to allow for a direct change. I made a insert to allow for lathe work . When i find it i will post photo .

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