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Thread: Baintech lithium batteries - Zero Percent

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
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    Trunkey Creek
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    Baintech lithium batteries - Zero Percent

    Hoping someone can shed some light for me please. I've got 2 x slimline baintech lithium batteries hooked up to a 50amp redarc bcdc charger. Long story short auto electrician connected the victron monitor incorrectly and it's only monitoring and controlling the cranking battery instead of the lithiums.

    Batteries seem to be dead as all electricals for fridges etc not running.

    I understand the redarc charger needs to charge the cranking battery first (currently 12.9v) and then will charge the lithiums. I've driven for over an hour and when I put the meter on the Anderson it shows basically no volts. Like .3 volts.

    Does anyone know if the lithiums go to sleep mode when drawn to zero? If so do you know how to wake the batteries up. Baintech office isn't opened because of the public holiday.

    I don't want to be driving to charge the batteries if the batteries for some reason won't take the charge. I'm on Fraser and don't have a 240v lithium charger.

    Any assistance would be appreciated.

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
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    Brisbane
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    Baintech lithium batteries - Zero Percent

    Not a lot of info on line.

    Can you run 12v from starter battery to the lithium, I.e. like jump start cables. Your DC-DC may need to see a minimum voltage before it will charge.

    My Enerdrive battery has a button that needs to be pressed while starting the car for the battery to accept charge when discharged discharged....

  3. #3
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    Found this......in the Manual.

    Note that the voltage sensed by the DC-DC charger when it is charging, will be slightly different to the voltage measured at the vehicle alternator / start battery. This is because of the voltage drop along the cable from the alternator / start battery to the Baintech battery. If this voltage drop is too high, a thicker and/or shorter cable may be required.
    1. After connecting the DC source via the blue Anderson plug, the vehicle engine can be started.
    2. The green LED status light should illuminate if the battery is charging. If the battery is not
    charging, check the:
    a. Cable size which may be too small with excessive voltage drop; and
    b. Voltage on the blue Anderson plug from the vehicle alternator / battery.
    3. The DC-DC charger typically begins charging at 13.3V, and then the green light turns on.
    4. If you need to adjust the VSR setting, you will need a small Phillips screwdriver to adjust the
    trim pot adjacent to the LED light.
    5. Remove the clear plastic sticker before adjusting.
    6. Turning the trim pot in a clockwise direction reduces the voltage setting and turning it in an
    anti-clockwise direction increases the voltage setting. Use the LED status light to determine
    the correct setting.
    7. If the trim pot voltage is too high the charger never turns on. However, if it is too low it could
    stay on too long and drain the start battery.
    8. Put the clear plastic sticker back in place. Once the trim pot is set it should never require

  4. #4
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Queensland
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    Hi Tommy and you’ve got yourself into a “Catch 22” situation.

    Your Lithium battery’s BMS has shut down because the batteries are too low, but the DC/DC device will not turn on if there is a voltage less than about 7V.

    First off, your DC/DC has nothing to do with charging your cranking battery and I can only guess where that B/S came from.

    Next, you have to apply an external voltage to the lithiums, to get the BMS to turn back on.

    Once on, your DC/DC device will charge again.

    If you have a set of jumper leads and another battery, connect the leads to the lithium batteries for a few seconds and their BMS will turn back on.

    You can get someone else’s vehicle to park close to your batteries and connect the jumpers.


    NOTE, DO NOT CONNECT THE JUMPERS WHILE THE OTHER VEHICLE’S MOTOR IS RUNNING.


    Turn ALL MOTORS off and then connect the jumper leads.

    Connect NEGATIVE ( - ) battery terminal to NEGATIVE ( - ) battery terminal

    Next, connect the POSITIVE ( + ) to the donor vehicle’s POSITIVE ( + ) battery terminal.

    Then with ALL MOTORS OFF, hold the other end of the POSITIVE ( + ) lead on to the Lithium battery’s POSITIVE ( + ) battery terminal for a few seconds.

    Remove the leads and then start your motor.

    After a minute or two, the DC/DC device should start charging your lithium batteries.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Trunkey Creek
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    Thanks for everyone's responses.

    Is it possible for me to use my Anderson lead with it's jumper lead adaptor, connect to the cranking battery and put the Anderson on the solar input or would that kill solar regulator in the bcdc charger?

    It would give me an easy way to kick start the batteries.

    Thanks.

  7. #7
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    Trunkey Creek
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    If it's any help the batteries are also the ones without the built in dc charger.

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Location
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    Hi again Tommy, you have to go directly to the lithium battery because the solar works the same way.

    No voltage on the output of the DC/DC and the DC/DC will not turn on.

    You have to turn the lithium battery BMS on and that requires an external supply voltage as posted in my first reply.

  9. #9
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    Baintech lithium batteries - Zero Percent

    Quote Originally Posted by Tommy Armstrong View Post
    Thanks for everyone's responses.

    Is it possible for me to use my Anderson lead with it's jumper lead adaptor, connect to the cranking battery and put the Anderson on the solar input or would that kill solar regulator in the bcdc charger?

    It would give me an easy way to kick start the batteries.

    Thanks.
    Looking at the manual you should be able to plug you Anderson lead directly into the lithium battery via one of the two Anderson inputs and use the clamps/alligator clips on the other end connected to your starter.


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Trunkey Creek
    Posts
    32
    Thanks for everyone's help.

    Turns out after talking to redarc that you can't kick start the lithium batteries through the solar Anderson on the charger unit with a secondary battery. It will send power through but not start the batteries.

    We utilized a lead with alligator clips on one end and Anderson on the other, plugged the clips to my cracking battery and the Anderson to the output for a fridge touching the positive clamp for 10 seconds. Then started the car after removing the Anderson lead and then the batteries started. Drove for 2 hours which gave me 100ah so should be enough for fridge and freezer for the night.

    Was a great learning curve. Now to find an auto electrician in Brisbane who can correct the connection errors for the Victron displays so it finally shows the status of the lithiums instead of just the cranking battery.

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