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Thread: Lithium battery configuration

  1. #11
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    Battery is composed of eight 200ah Winston cells in four pairs to make the battery, charging is from the 8 solar panels on the roof through a Plasmatronics PL80 solar controller.
    When charged from 240v it is via a Projecta 35amp charger on the GEL setting.
    The four pairs of cells are monitored by a Junsi R/C car monitor and overall monitoring is via a Victron BMV 712 which bluetooths to my phone if required.
    240v is supplied by a Xantrex 1800w PSW inverter.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by oka374 View Post
    A recent capacity test after the eight years of continuous use showed no decrease in the advertised capacity.
    .
    Thanks for the detailed 8 year review

    Interesting no capacity loss, I’m yet to come across somebody that has quality batteries indicate any real capacity loss....That good return on investment, good chance you would have been on a second set off LA by now.

    Mine only need to last 4 years (not 3 as mentioned above, couldn’t count)

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by W&KO View Post
    No where near 1000ah,

    My loose numbers for triple capacity is based on how I choose to use the batteries, and Im on the leave the starter battery out of the equation side of tie fence.

    I started with a 105ah AGM which I tried not to go below 50% which gave me 50ah best case.

    Installed 200ah lithium which is set to cut out at 18% which gives me ~160ah = 3 times what my AGM gave me.

    Re: recovery, still confused on what you mean?

    Re: life of my lithium, it only need to last for 3 years, why, it factored in to our trip.......it coming up to 1yr old and has a capacity off 203ah, no loses to date.

    Config.
    200ah lithium
    40a DC-DC, on a bright sunny day I get ~8 ish amps from solar while driving
    240w solar
    2000w inverter

    As mentioned earlier, it working fine and not seeing the issues raised, one less thing to worry about day too day.

    overall capacity isnt based on how you use it, its what youve got, how you use it gives up how long you can make it last.

    I'm assuming that while driving (and charging) the DCDC is pulling what it can from flat panels on the roof and then making up the shortfall off the alternator..

    your usage rate about equals mine but I'm running 220AH of LA (2x115ha 1200CCA n120(ish) truck batteries in parallel) but only 90ishW of solar for maintenance charging and the alternator charges between stops on the run. However I dont have any critical support stuff on the batteries like a Cpap But I can dump over 2000 amps for short periods, my nominal loads (excluding light weight things like led lights, gps and radio)

    1. fridge
    2. winch
    3. electric blankets (girlfriend has [I]no/I] metabolism or body fat)
    4. run the diesel heater.
    5. run the invertor for the compressor

    almost all of that is short load time followed by a period of "rest" during which the battery can "recover"

    this lays out the concept pretty well.

    https://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdo...=rep1&type=pdf
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    overall capacity isnt based on how you use it, its what youve got, how you use it gives up how long you can make it last.

    I'm assuming that while driving (and charging) the DCDC is pulling what it can from flat panels on the roof and then making up the shortfall off the alternator..

    your usage rate about equals mine but I'm running 220AH of LA (2x115ha 1200CCA n120(ish) truck batteries in parallel) but only 90ishW of solar for maintenance charging and the alternator charges between stops on the run. However I dont have any critical support stuff on the batteries like a Cpap But I can dump over 2000 amps for short periods, my nominal loads (excluding light weight things like led lights, gps and radio)

    1. fridge
    2. winch
    3. electric blankets (girlfriend has [I]no/I] metabolism or body fat)
    4. run the diesel heater.
    5. run the invertor for the compressor

    almost all of that is short load time followed by a period of "rest" during which the battery can "recover"

    this lays out the concept pretty well.

    https://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdo...=rep1&type=pdf
    Re: usage, I only used 50% and didn’t touch what other capacity I may have had therefore I don’t count it in my cals....same as with lithium, I only use to 18%. For either setup, if/when I got close to my allowed percentage I re-charge.

    Re: charging the lithium, I get full 40amps from DC-DC along with whatever solar is available, I run a separate solar controller rather than running the solar though the DC-DC which means battery will accept charge from both sources. On a good day I get around 50ah into battery while driving, if I’m not lucky with sunshine than I get a guaranteed 40amps......does starts to back off when nearing 100%.

    I’m yet to not be at 100% when arriving at next campsite.

  5. #15
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    Me thinks too many over complicate, over think lithium.....it’s really not that much different to the old school lead acid batteries systems

    Back to the OP question as we’ve digressed about helping him with a DIY build.

    The page I linked above I believe they also have a 280ah cell available to DIY as a kit that’s not listed on the website. If he does he will also have a box with two terminals on the top.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by W&KO View Post
    Not sure what your are paying for your cells.......

    I’m looking at the DIY 100ah kit...

    Anyways, I reckon the video ls in the link below are handy. He explain protection, balancing etc.

    LiFePO4 12V 100Ah DIY Kit
    The 200ah Lithium I posted about cost $700 plus whatever for a BMS.
    I have "T" brand lithium - from Lanplus- for my E bike & am very impressed. They also have 100 amp at a reasonable price, sorry to say a lot less than building one as per your link. The big ?? is if quality is the same, or the same as my E Bike. I'm still pondering & researching, so thanks for the advice about the BMS.

    12V_100AH_LFP (lanplus.com.au)

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeeJay View Post
    The 200ah Lithium I posted about cost $700 plus whatever for a BMS.
    I have "T" brand lithium - from Lanplus- for my E bike & am very impressed. They also have 100 amp at a reasonable price, sorry to say a lot less than building one as per your link. The big ?? is if quality is the same, or the same as my E Bike. I'm still pondering & researching, so thanks for the advice about the BMS.

    12V_100AH_LFP (lanplus.com.au)
    Thanks for the reply yes that a good price for 200.

    Mainly post the link for the videos which I found helpful.

    Keep us posted on your build

  8. #18
    DiscoMick Guest
    Interesting experiences.
    We are looking at fitting a 200Amp Enerdrive lithium battery and management-charging system to our caravan.
    There are cheaper lithiums around, but the advice I'm getting is that will be roughly equivalent to 300 Amps of AGM and the Enerdrive setup is high quality and optimised.
    The 200 Amps of AGM in our camper trailer have done the job well, so I figure the 200 Amps of lithium should be fine. We're only running a fridge-freezer, LED lights and the caravan will have a 12-volt TV.
    What do you think?

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoMick View Post
    Interesting experiences.
    We are looking at fitting a 200Amp Enerdrive lithium battery and management-charging system to our caravan.
    There are cheaper lithiums around, but the advice I'm getting is that will be roughly equivalent to 300 Amps of AGM and the Enerdrive setup is high quality and optimised.
    The 200 Amps of AGM in our camper trailer have done the job well, so I figure the 200 Amps of lithium should be fine. We're only running a fridge-freezer, LED lights and the caravan will have a 12-volt TV.
    What do you think?
    Overkill, but then, thats the best kind.


    One thing I've really wanted to get to going to town on with lithiums is how they hold up on partial charge cycles, I know how the smaller units hold up but I'm curious as to the scalability of it.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoMick View Post
    200Amp Enerdrive lithium battery will be roughly equivalent to 300 Amps of AGM
    Hi Mick and this is nothing but advertising B/S.
    All lead acid deep cycle batteries used in RV situations, have been able to be safely cycled down to 20% and many of the newer ones can be cycled down to 0%.

    So 200Ah of lithium batteries is going to be the equivalent to 240Ah of older type lead acid deep cycle batteries and are the same as 200Ah of newer type lead acid deep cycle batteries.

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