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Thread: Lithium battery configuration

  1. #31
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    Lithium battery configuration

    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    IF you're buying a complete ready to go system that comes prematched from the one supplier yes, but once you're out of that environment it can get "sketchy" [/url]
    this is what the OP is doing, he is out of the normal environment, I don’t believe it to be sketchy.

    My next battery will be a DIY.......

    Select batteries with spec that suits use
    Select cell balancer
    Select BMS
    Select charger
    Assemble.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geedublya View Post
    A video from Stephan who used to frequent this site with a good rundown on how he is using lithium.

    His latest video compares DC-DC, I run Enerdrive and made a comment in his video which he replied to.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by W&KO View Post
    Go with the ‘brand’ name batteries and it’s a pretty safe bet.
    That is actually very poor advice.


    If you check out the specs for many of the so-called Name Brands, many have specs no better and some are even worse than cheapo lithium batteries.

    Forget brand names and look at the specific specs for each brand of lithium battery.

    Dave’s suggestion that the lithium battery market is “sketchy” is spot on the money.

    The link to the Tear Down battery is a perfect example of why you need to know and UNDERSTAND what each lithium battery’s specs mean.

    I personally would not buy that brand of lithium battery, because the specs are “sketchy” and don’t give anywhere near the relevant details needed, to be able to determine how good ( or bad ) that battery is.

    Then to make matters worse, they use deliberately misleading lead acid battery info as a means of trying to make their lithium battery look better than what I suspect it real is.

    The best thing anybody can do, before buying Lithium batteries, is learn what the specs mean for lithium batteries and then compare the specs for each brand of battery you are looking at.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geedublya View Post
    A video from Stephan who used to frequent this site with a good rundown on how he is using lithium.

    pay attention to this bit for about 2 minutes.. He mentions changing alternators and setting different charge rates.

    This LiFePo4 Starter Battery Changed How I Travel! Lithium Under Bonnet Setup - 12 Month Review - YouTube

    here hes included the overall spec summary of various batteries highlighting the DCS unit which by all accounts other than overall price is an absolute LA killer. Although compared to the Actual DCS site is a little more generous than the current DCS specs. Hes also mentioned to be cautious about cheap batteries that are not up to high current work

    This LiFePo4 Starter Battery Changed How I Travel! Lithium Under Bonnet Setup - 12 Month Review - YouTube
    and the DCS specs (although dont watch the snake oil vids on the DCS page they're somewhat not as honest as they might otherwise be)
    DCS 12V 100AH (LITHIUM)

    Not long after that he shows a winching demo, hes pulling 250+Amps (measured on a clamp meter) and while hes only showing 1 battery on the monitor its not hitting 120+ amps its showing between 80 and 105 amps.

    which leads me to assume that he's got the engine sitting at low idle as well. This highlights one of the issues of using a lower rate alternator and higher capacity batteries. The batteries are picking up the lions share of the work until they pull down to the point where the alternator can do its job, with a 200A alternator running at full output in this case you'd only expect to see about 20-30 amps on the batteries.


    next he covers off on battery construction.

    This LiFePo4 Starter Battery Changed How I Travel! Lithium Under Bonnet Setup - 12 Month Review - YouTube

    and hits an overall summary.

    having sat through his video spending a fair bit of time flicking and pausing while I go and check various bits of info, noting that he makes mention that hes only in it for a year and still testing, and he mentions all the usual "check with" and "in most cases" that I would throw around there are 3 reservations I have before I would outright recommend throwing a DCS12v100A lithium in as the primary battery.

    1. the max draw is not enough on a single battery to crank a diesel (*) or drive a winch (based on the DCS website info)
    2. They have a float voltage that is lower than most nominal alternator outputs
    3. they have a recommended and maximum charge amps rate that is lower than most modern alternator outputs.

    (*)modern diesels need turning for longer while the various computers work out where the engine is, fuel pressures to be correct, oil pressure etc before they start compared to an older mechanical diesel where under normalish conditions its a case of glow and go and on a good day a start is had within 4 turns of the crank)

    putting one in as a second battery behind a good high current DC/DC unit OR a moderate DC/DC with an additional solar charger, That I would recommend in a heart beat IF you can afford the $1300. (the assumption of the DC/DC and solar is a freebie for this installation as you were probably going to get them anyway)
    Putting 2 in and running them in permanent parallel with a dedicated specification alternator, I would also recommend IF you can afford approximately $3k for the 2 batteries and the alternator.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
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    Archaeopteryx 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoMick View Post
    Earlier it was mentioned running a CPAP. I have a portable CPAP which came with a lithium battery with enough capacity to power it for 2 nights. I recharge it during the day when the house is making plenty of solar. Being portable I can take it everywhere, even on planes. This might be a way to cut your usage.
    I would be interested in the quoted a/h usage of that unit, as my "home" CPAP runs through a 12v transformer so I could use it camping- with a direct lead & fuse from the batteries. The stated 12v usage (I assume with humidifier working) is 6.5 a/h.
    I experimented with the "camping" CPAP & using a clamp meter, found it uses between 2.5-3.2 amps/hr as you can disable the humidifier- which in the Vic high plains, I don't seem to need.
    Next step is to buy a correct lead for the home CPAP & see what the usage is & if I can disable the humidifier as its one of those automatic - ie $1500 - ones as 6.5 ah is a lot.
    DeeJay
    1999 Defender Wagon
    1977 SWB Hardtop

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoMick View Post
    Earlier it was mentioned running a CPAP. I have a portable CPAP which came with a lithium battery with enough capacity to power it for 2 nights. I recharge it during the day when the house is making plenty of solar. Being portable I can take it everywhere, even on planes. This might be a way to cut your usage.
    Hi Mick, what was the size of the lithium battery?

  7. #37
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    Absolute must for Lithium Batteries

    Quote Originally Posted by DeeJay View Post
    Thinking of this for my Defender.
    I always seem to be running close to the bone with 3x 105 amp full river batteries when camping. I run a CPAP, & 2x fridges - 1 as a freezer & lighting etc.
    If I bought this setup - 4x 3.2 200 amp batteries & a renology 60 amp DC TO DC charger, would I need a separate BMS ( Battery Management System - Board) to safely operate this setup? Also, is 60 amp overkill for a 200 amp installation?

    Attachment 170728


    I might add that the Full River batteries are getting on, so this would be close to the cost of replacements.

    Under no circumstances run the Lithium batteries without a Battery Management System. Lithium individual cells will go out of balance and fail in a very short time without the BMS

    A better option is to buy 3 X 100AHr Lithium 12 volt batteries with inbuilt BMS which will drop straight into your Lead Acid set-up. Basically a direct replacement for the Lead Acid Batteries. Physical size about the same, weight about a third, as the Lead Acid's and effectively three times the useful long life capacity.

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