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If you do buy a new solar regulator, make sure it is a real MPPT regulator. It will cost at least $100 for a small unit, more if you want one bigger than to suit a 200W panel. Those that are around $50 or less may be stated as MPPT, but they are not. I like the offerings from Victron Blue.
Aaron
FPV-POWER 24V 110Ah LiFePO4 with Charger
is where i am headed when i win lotto...
i use epever 40amp MPPT controllers and they have been excellent
Yeah, well I'm winning lotto first.Quote:
Originally Posted by incisor
Interesting though, I was looking at this earlier today. EPEVER 30A Solar Charge Controller MPPT 12V / 24V Auto Max.PV 100V Input Negative Ground Solar Panel Charge Regulator with MT50 Remote Meter Temperature Sensor RTS & PC Communication Cable RS485 : Amazon.com.au: Sports, Fitness & Outdoors
I have that set up in the defenderQuote:
Originally Posted by Tins
PS
the only downside to the epever is the fuses are soldered to the mainboard but if your handy with a soldering iron it is an easy fix...
Hey Tim, I was hoping to tap into your expertise also if thats ok.Quote:
Originally Posted by drivesafe
I'm a total Lithium newbie. I'm currently running a Lifeline 150ah AGM Deep cycle in the back of my Disco2 via just a simple volt sensing solinoid isolator. Its been fine as a setup.
Is there any benefit of going to a LifePO4 lithium battery setup in this case. One of our work suppliers sells the Fusion lithium batteries, however I'm not sure now if there would be much to be gained from my Disco2 setup after reading this. He said those batteries are supposed to be a direct drop in where normal batteries are used and not need Dc-Dc chargers for the voltage and which sound like they just slow down the charging rate com[pared to charging directly from the alternator - but I just didn't want to go down a path where the Disco2 wont properly charge it either due to voltage or charging current limitations. The links to the batteries are below. I've got no idea what type of alternator a Disco2 has. Oooh, sorry for the grave dig on this thread.
GPL-30HT AGM Battery - Lifeline Batteries
V-LFP-12-150 | 12v 150AH Fusion Lithium Battery | Deep Cycle
– Energy Eco
Oooh, sorry for the grave dig on this thread.
Hi Slunnie and I am pretty sure your D2 has nothing more than a Variable Voltage type alternator operation.Quote:
Originally Posted by Slunnie
If so then you will have no problems fitting a Lithium battery.
Just make sure the battery can tolerate high current charging, such as 100 amp continues charging.
You will also need a high current switching RELAY so you can separate the batteries when you turn your motor off.
Basically, thats, it.
A note for everyone else, this info applies to Variable Voltage type alternator only, NOT SMART alternators.
Awesome, thanks so much for this Tim. That sounds like a really good and simple setup. I like it a lot. Sounds like it will need a wire and fuse upgrade as well, but thats an opportunity to redo it. Thanks again.Quote:
Originally Posted by drivesafe
Hi again Slunnie, if you are not in a hurry, I have a modified version of my DT90 program, which is specifically setup for vehicles with Variable Voltage alternators to be able to run a lithium battery as an auxiliary battery but will offer major advantages to using a simple solenoid, such as the potential of an infinite life span for your lead acid cranking battery.Quote:
Originally Posted by Slunnie
The modified DT90 program just needs a few more tests.
Thanks, absolutely zero rush. I was also looking at your USI-160 for the current capacity with the 120A alternator.Quote:
Originally Posted by drivesafe
Hi again Slunnie and the 120 amp alternator can easily be handled by a DT90 and I will explain how it works.Quote:
Originally Posted by Slunnie
Under normal use, with the way the Traxide isolators work, after being camped for say three days and having two low batteries, when you start your drive, the current output of your alternator will be split three ways.
Your vehicles electrical load, during the day, will be around 20 to 30 amps and at night, 30 to 45 amps.
At best, this will leave you bo more than about 100 amps to recharge two batteries.
With the split being around equal as your auxiliary battery, even though it is smaller than your cranking battery, will be in a lower state of charge and will draw a higher recharge current.
This would make the 100 amps available, divided pretty well in half, so the DT90 would only be handling about 50 amps max.
Even with something like a late model D4, with a 220 amp alternator, the total load being handled, at its peak, would only be around 100 amps.
Now NOTE, a DT90s switching load is 90 amps, but its constant load can be much higher and and even if your DT90 was off when you first start your motor, the current output of the alternator will be quite low for a few seconds to a minute or so, because of the low motor revs till you get up and moving.
Hope that helps!