Thread: Battery problem?

Have you tried disconnecting the solar controller from the batteries at night? I still think it is backfeeding to the panels.

Seeing the batteries took a charge from the generator there would appear to be nothing wrong with them.

BTW you can run a much bigger charger than direct from the 12v outlet from even a 1000w generator.

A 20amp 240Volt to 12volt charger will run no problems from a generator as long as it is sine wave , although I ran mine from even an old chugga.
Regards PhilipA

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Have you tried disconnecting the solar controller from the batteries at night? I still think it is backfeeding to the panels.


Seeing the batteries took a charge from the generator there would appear to be nothing wrong with them.

BTW you can run a much bigger charger than direct from the 12v outlet from even a 1000w generator.

A 20amp 240Volt to 12volt charger will run no problems from a generator as long as it is sine wave , although I ran mine from even an old chugga.
Regards PhilipA

There is an OFF option for the charger in the software, will try tonight

Reluctant to run genny....

The charger is set for "Low" (at the bottom) I think I did that the very first time overnight,,


Software showing over 14V at the battery,
Voltage at OUTPUT TERMINALS of controller showing a .5v difference
meter on batts showing 13.1 .. so we have a voltage loss of at least half a volt.


So far today its bulk charged for 3hours and 25 mins and gone to absorbsion

14V at the controller output terminals,
13.17 at the batts.

will be the same at 6 tonight..........

I wouldn't rely on the software and your meter voltages being comparable. I would use the meter to compare the voltage at the controller output and at the batteries when looking for voltage drop. Also check for voltage drop between the battery posts and the cable terminals, or better still to the cable wires if accessible rather than the terminals.

There is an OFF option for the charger in the software, will try tonight

I still suggest that you physically disconnect the controller from the batteries by unscrewing the positive terminal from the controller to the batteries.

You seem to be relying on the electronics working correctly but if they are not the test of where the problem lies is to physically isolate them.
Regards PhilipA

Not so much relying as **** scared of blowing the controller up...
big sparkies involved taking the positive away, even at night... maybe especially at night

"Charger" turned off in the software menu...

Batt V on the meter is 13.05

Dont give up on me Phillip,,, as long as the batts get to 13V each day life goes on...

We have tracked down a mobile sparky that MAY be able to visit us on the 3rd... maybe.

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

Not so much relying as **** scared of blowing the controller up...
big sparkies involved taking the positive away, even at night... maybe especially at night

"Charger" turned off in the software menu...

Batt V on the meter is 13.05

Dont give up on me Phillip,,, as long as the batts get to 13V each day life goes on...

We have tracked down a mobile sparky that MAY be able to visit us on the 3rd... maybe.

Where are you Pedro? Did you go a few days without sun ? We have had some average weather here.

The difference between voltages is less.. Can you also check then at the terminals of the controller and compare them.. ie controller says 11v and you check at the terminals on it and report back..

Batt V on the meter is 13.05

That is very low and is less than 40% capacity.
If you unplug the positive to the controller from the panels first particularly at night, there should be no current. Then undo the positive to the batteries.
Regards PhilipA
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