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Thread: Bee-utey help please pics included

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    (1) .... gas pressure is well below the program setting, at 0.78 bar instead of the required 0.95 bar. Adjusting the regulator to match or exceed the required pressure may solve your problem. ....
    so, the reductor should allow at least this 0.95 bar instead of 0.78 ? I mean, something is wrong and I need to adjust the reductor directly, and not to try set up a higher pressure by the program?

    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    (2) ... The screen just shows that they are not connected to the LPG ECU. ...
    You correct. Indeed the O2s are not connected to LPG ECU, but they are working fine with petrol ECU.

    thanks for your reply.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares View Post
    Hi pooh961, I'm still fiddling with mine. I still a having trouble with the fuel map. At idle it's a bit rough, under load it feels like it's starving, at 2200rpm when under load and on a hill it feels like it's not getting enough fuel. Changing the fuel map is what I find difficult as I don't know what I'm doing as there are too many boxes with settings in them.
    actually, last saturday I have change the tires. the old 245/70 R16 I changed to 235/70 R16, which is one of the original size ( but in real it was 1 inch difference in the diameter, I don't know why ? ) , and even if this is a small difference , I saw some improvement especially in acceleration. Idle and under middle load working fine, but as example during changeover I always feel a small pause, like can't deliver not enough gas right at the beginning. Maybe this is also because of pressure issue, or I would need to improve the overlapping time.
    The most interesting thing for me was, that even if I try to change the map, the fuel consumption doesnt changing or only with a very small amount - I am always around 20 liter / 100km ( from 19 to 21) - but if I am thinking about the pressure, it could also possible, that all these changes doesn't have a 100% effect especially because of to low pressure ?? ...

    regarding map I agree, too many boxes, nort so easy, but I am trying to change the values with possible smooth transition, without too big gaps.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by pooh961 View Post
    so, the reductor should allow at least this 0.95 bar instead of 0.78 ? I mean, something is wrong and I need to adjust the reductor directly, and not to try set up a higher pressure by the program?

    The actual pressure is set by a screw on the regulator/reducer. The programmed pressure is the design objective so the signals sent to the injectors match the injector response times.

    Idle and under middle load working fine, but as example during changeover I always feel a small pause, like can't deliver not enough gas right at the beginning. Maybe this is also because of pressure issue, or I would need to improve the overlapping time.
    I set the overlap to zero, it is not needed under normal conditions. Using sequential changeover it changes one cylinder at a time and should not surge.

    regarding map I agree, too many boxes, not so easy, but I am trying to change the values with possible smooth transition, without too big gaps.
    Always save a working copy of the vehicle settings so if you have a bad map you can always reload the old configuration. To change the map, press the right mouse button and drag the cursor across and highlight the area you wish to change (or even the whole map) then press enter, change the numbers by +/- 5 or 10 at the most, press enter again. You can also practice on a base map with the ECU not plugged in to the laptop.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    The actual pressure is set by a screw on the regulator/reducer. The programmed pressure is the design objective so the signals sent to the injectors match the injector response times.
    hmm, I am a little bit confused...
    The reducer was setup via screw - if I see pressure 0,78, I cannot change it via programm, it is just an info about current setup.
    The pressure I can set up in programm, is for injector settings.
    In my case I should decrease the pressure value to the 0,78 (instead of 0,95), and the injectors will work with the current valid adjustment.
    Or, I need a screwdriver and I need to adjust the reducer up to 0,95, and then the setteing for injectors will match the setting for reducer.
    Is that all correct?



    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    save a working copy of the vehicle settings so if you have a bad map you can always reload the old configuration. To change the map, press the right mouse button and drag the cursor across and highlight the area you wish to change (or even the whole map) then press enter, change the numbers by +/- 5 or 10 at the most, press enter again. You can also practice on a base map with the ECU not plugged in to the laptop.
    Yes, I always do that. But to be honest, I am very carefull and I make only small changes at once, because I am still short of knowledge. The main reason I started to playing with settings is, that my original setting were so bad, that I was almost not able to drive, after finetuning it became even worst and I was afraid, that it can mechanically damage my car ( I thought first, that my driveplate in gearbox is broken and I was not able to drive over a small hows - with a 4.6 V8 engine !! ) Then I decided to buy an interface and I have reset the map - since this I can at least drive till medium load.

    If everything goes fine, friday I am going visiting a specialist, but actually it is very hard to find a good one. so I will see.
    but in the main time I will looking for some backgroud info - I am doing the service for my Range, so I hope, I will be able to maintaine the lpg too.. I just need the knowledge and understand the context.

    so far thank you very much for your comments.

  5. #15
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    by the way, I have this reducer:
    Elpigaz - Vega-i Sport

    my system is Elpigaz, this is a pretty good copy of italian system, and this is certified in my country ( only certified systems and only by certified technicians can be installed. and also only by domestic garage! I guess, in Europe we have only 3 countries with such a sctrict conditions

  6. #16
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    Your system design pressure is 0.95 bar. Please adjust your reducer pressure with an allen key in the hole in the middle of the silver part on the right hand side of your reducer so that the gas pressure read by the pressure sensor at the bottom of the programming screen is 0.95 bar approximately.


  7. #17
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    So, on friday I went to the specialist I mentioned before. I got the contact from a guy who has an RRC 4.2 SC and he was happy with the servis - I thought if he can set up correctly an 4.2 supercharged ( which I think is a bit tricky ) then ha can give me some advice for my 4.6 thor engine.

    First I wanted to let check why is swiching back to petrol under load, and then if possible, if we can reduce the lpg consumption.

    He started with a visual control of equipment and after the first look he had some comments.
    the inlet pipe to the reducer is 8mm, but the inlet itself is a 6 mm diameter, and the worst thing is, that this is determined by reducer itself, so that is strange, at leastfor such a power ( I guess my reducer is certified for 250KW). he also mentioned, that based on his own experience, it is usually not a good idea to use a connection with a 90 degree curve.
    the same situation on other side - the toroid has a normal valve, even if the pipe is 8 mm, the outlet is reduced to 6mm. he mentioned, that here should be a so called "turbo valve" , or something similar, at least from power around 110-120KW.
    that can cause, that normally the system is working fine, but under hard load oreccelaration there are moments, where the suck is enourmous and the reducer with these configuration cannot provide enough pressure.
    then the pipes from the injectors into the inlet manifold are a bit too long - there is necessary to use the shortest possible pipes.

    then we went for a test drive, with the following results:
    - the pressure is definitely not enough
    - the mix for lpg is very rich
    - for one bank is much more rich as for the second

    the second and third points are very interesting for me. the very rich mixture means, there is still place also for consumption reducig. especially, when he reduced the whole map down at 10%, it was still to rich.
    but more important is, that for one bank was much more as for the second. he suggested, that the lpg injektors are not in the same sequence with the petrol injektors. he also provided a test, when he switched off injector one after one, and we feel that some of injectors have no affect, after switching off other injectors, we inmediately feel the rough run of the engine.

    to be honest I knew this little rougness and he did test it because I told him, but I was not sure about, because it was not always there.
    it was especially a feeling let say from cca. 70-90 km/h with a gently acceleraton, and sometimes at iddle.
    now I think that this was because of gearbox - the automatic gearbox up to third gear is not directly connected to the driveshaft, is working with some slipping, but in 4th gear usually around 80 km/h is switching to direct drive. most probably that was the reason that I feel that vibration only sometimes , only when the drive was directly.

    so lot of interesting things, the guy was very kind - like the guys here on forum, where even via internet you had some very usefull suggestions and tips.
    It looks, now I need to back to the garage were the lpg set was installed and we need to discuss these open point.
    also thanks to you guys, especially to Bee-utey or your help. ( I will need it in the future too )

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