I can offer this,,
8 months on the road and with some planning ahead gas was never a problem,, lots of web sites that list "all" servos that sell lpg, I'd probably fix the pump and run both though--;)
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I can offer this,,
8 months on the road and with some planning ahead gas was never a problem,, lots of web sites that list "all" servos that sell lpg, I'd probably fix the pump and run both though--;)
It is not just availability,it is often also the ridiculous cost of LPG in regional areas that makes it unviable.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift
Using the web to locate sites and i presume prices would be very helpful.
Slightly off topic,the latest LPG systems seem very reliable.The van i drive has just clocked 230K and the system has never been touched:)
Hi All,
I've been keeping records of LPG use on my 92 Rangie.
We've established with bee utey assistance that my 90 litre (water capacity) tank x 80% gives approx 72 litres of usable LPG gas.
Figures to date
1,137 Klms using 331 litres at a cost of $261.88c
1,137 Klms divided 331 litres = 3.4 Klms per litre
I've divided some individual tanks and the figures works out at 3.65 Klm per litre.
Tehnnically ....if I were to run her to empty (72 x 3.4 Klms) = 244.8 Klm range.
I do mainly city driving ... but do have a numer of possible trip to the country (South of Perth) and I'd like to take the Rangie.
Should I work on average 200 Klms to a tank leaving (45 Klms) as a buffer to get to the next service station to fill up.
That way I can plan on a map distances and ring service stations along my planned route with LPG availability.
All thoughts appreciated,
Baggy
Your doing well.... I run mine to empty most times. I get about 180kms from a 67litre tank of LPG. It runs very nicely on LPG. I put the appalling economy down to use. My average weekly use is each day ... cold start, 1st and 2nd high range ... diff lock in through the bush to my daughters school (less than 10minutes) ... then 10minutes in stationary traffic around the school.... followed by a 60km/h 5 minute cruise to work. Then idling through the bush (though a better track) so 3rd gear high range (no diff lock required) to get home. So two cold starts and probably an average speed of 15km/h ....
To put how ****house the fuel economy of these things is .... 68 litres gets me 180'ish kms. My wifes crappy poogoe I just drove from ballarat to adelaide ... and when I was leaving adelaide to head back home a few days later ... I filled it's tank again .... and got $30 of deisel in .... bloody hell, we'd have got to adelaide and back on a 68litre tank of diesel.
seeya,
Shane L.
Wow that's crap Shane , both of my old rangies using the same lpg system would get 350 - 370 klms from 70ltrs, basic impco system on a 350 holley.
My 82 rangie with Imco gas holley carb and twin 45 litre gas tanks underneath would get me consistently 400kms per tank.
My 89 vogue with flapper injection and now with the same gas tanks and omvl gas I get 370kms per tank consistently.
I would like more but it is what it is.
My tanks need restamping and I am told its a $700.00 exercise and thats with me removing the tanks myself from underneath..Pig of a job.
I too amd wondering about gas as its 82cpl and there are lots of servos that used to have gas that no longer do.
I have my original petrol tank stored in my shed,so with that and my sill tanks would give me a better range albeit with a higher cost, but its not my daily driver and I only get to drive it on weekends.
My 2003 manual TD5 Disco on the other hand gives me over 1000kms on a tank of diesel..I likem both but the rangie still gives me the better smile when I drive it.
Brad
Ok, you guys have convinced me there is something wrong (weird given it runs so well).Quote:
Originally Posted by Bradtot
So last night I decided to do some checks.. plugs look good, timing looks good, dizzie cap and rotor look brand new, .... But ... bugger me, the vacuum advance has died in the last 6months. Well THAT will effect fuel economy as you won't have the ignition advancing at low throttle openings. So I've thrown a working vacuum advance on it and set the timing to about 10degrees.... then set the AEB ignition advance unit to 12degrees advance on lpg (previously I had it at 9degrees)... Im not sure how far I can safely advance the LPG timing without pining
Then, I decided it was time to fiddle with the converter. First I bottomed out the 3 adjustment screws and counted the turns ( so I can reset it to where it is now if required ).
then followed this:
Quote:
Start at the base tune point idle screw 8mm Top just open 1/4 turn next sensitivity 10mm screw wound out until the spring has no pressure on it. Next main power adjuster this is the inline adjuster in the vapour hose between the convertor and mixer set at the 50% mark eg screw it completely in and count how many turns out if there were 14 turns out set it at 7 turns this is the base start position for the full tune.
Now start the car up it will be running rich but don't worry yet now bring the car up to full operating temperature and when at full temperature we start setting the base tune.
Screw in the 10mm sensitivity screw until you feel the motor start to pull down this is placing pressure on the main diaphragm this is to stop the car stalling on hard turns and at this point the car will be running rough don't worry that’s what it supposed to do. Next screw out the idle screw the 8mm one until the motor is running smoothly don’t adjust to fast here eg 1/2 turn at a time and give the accelerator a short rev after each adjustment this is to seat the diaphragms after each adjustment, when the motor is idling smoothly stop there.
Not go to the main power adjuster in the vapour hose the one you set at the half way mark bring the revs up to about 3500-4000 rpm and hold them there and screw that screw out about 1 turn now start slowly winding that in until you feel the motor pull down in revs what you are doing is starving the motor of fuel at that point stop screwing in and wind out one full turn and lock the screw in place. Now test drive keep one thing in mind start with a clean air filter that is the biggest burner of fuel on a gas car if it can’t pull air then it has to pull gas.
TonyMac
I stole this from another forum ( Sprint Gas Tuning Help | OldHolden.com )
So I followed these instructions ... it sounds absolutely lovely .... and bloody flies (even better than before ... if that is possbile). I found after a few full throttle runs in 3rd gear I could a teeny bit of leaning out (ie: slight hesitation as it's revving out). So I've given the power screw another 1/4 turn open. If I ever notice that again, I'll give it another 1/4 turn. But for now I'm very happy. We'll see if the economy improves or changes at all.
seeya,
Shane L.
Well I thought I'd check the fuel economy properly for a change... So I headed down to warnanbool towing an empty car trailer. 220km and 55litres of LPG. That's 25L/100kms. Probably about right (remembering a car trailer has little wind resistance like a caravan).
I filled up at Mortlake on the way home... and the car started missing and carrying on as I pulled out of the petrol station. It was absolutely bloody wild the trip home. Some places I was back to 55km/h ... the conditions ( wind rain and darkness ) were so bad. The car ran ... worse and worse. I figured I'd soaked everything under the bonnet so the ingition was playing up (though it didn't feel like ignition). Today ( 130km/h later ) I was greated with an empty tank red light... and a near undrivable car. I had to flick it to petrol just to get out onto the road. All these problems have happened since I filled up at mortlake. In desperation I tried to add more gas. I managed to get 30litres in (so not an empty gas tank ... weird, the gauge usually reads almost full ... until it's nearly empty). The car was instantly fixed by adding some fresh gas onto of whatever **** I was sold at mortlake. It's still only maybe 75% of the performance it should have. the gas gague only says 1/2full. Whatever **** they sold me at mortlake doesn't allow the float in the tank to float.
Whatever you do .... NEVER FILL YOUR CAR WITH LPG AT MORTLAKE. I'm guessing I'll just have to use the rest of the tank, 'cos I can't figure out a simple way of draining whatever **** they sold me out of it. What on earth did I actually fill with there ?? Whatever it is, it won't burn.
The weird bit .... with a trailer loaded with tractor implements (probably 1.5tons worth) ... still I got 25L/100 LPG driving home. I'm guessing it's the incredibly low speed I had to travel at due to the weather ... and the fact the car would barely run.
seeya,
Shane L.
=====Quote:
Originally Posted by Baggy
G'day. Me again. Having been there, done that, including a work Falcon ute on dedicated gas (with a 600 plus km range), I'd never feel comfortable not having both fuels available in your case/scenario. Others may tell a different story, but I never got significantly better economy on country trips (but did sit on the speed limit plus a couple wherever I went). So, definitely don't rely on more than 200 km per tank! However, I do concur they run so much cleaner on gas.
Cheers Gavin
Your "tune up" was probably done on a typical urban propane/butane mix and the gas you bought in Mortlake was pure propane as typically sold to country towns that also do bottled gas. You would have been running quite lean and could have just popped the bonnet and screwed out the power valve to compensate. This is why smart installers fitted LPG processors connected to an oxygen sensor just for the gas. Keeps better tune with different gas mixtures.Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleChevron