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Thread: Cant start car on lpg all of a sudden!!!

  1. #11
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    That looks exactly like the Hilux system that I had in this morning, same dodgy fuse holders too. There should be a line fuse between the front end and the LPG tank solenoid for servicing purposes. Take all the fuses right out and test them with a meter, or just replace them with new ones.

    Dodgy gas fitters also like using crimp terminals under the vehicle without waterproofing. It's quite common to see the earth point for the tank solenoid screwed to a thin panel with a small tek screw. These need undoing and soldering to a wire extension that can be earthed inside the vehicle, eg behind the light cluster. A tek screw should only be used into a double layer of panel. If outside, an earth point needs to be covered in a mound of neutral cure silicone sealant.Any inline connection in a wet zone should be soldered and securely covered in heat shrink or quality tape. Dodgy gas fitters use bullet connectors loosely crimped to thin wires, which of course is a recipe for future problems.

    Oh and the "mess" is the injector cut wiring to stop the injectors firing, which won't stop the gas running.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    That looks exactly like the Hilux system that I had in this morning, same dodgy fuse holders too. There should be a line fuse between the front end and the LPG tank solenoid for servicing purposes. Take all the fuses right out and test them with a meter, or just replace them with new ones.

    Dodgy gas fitters also like using crimp terminals under the vehicle without waterproofing. It's quite common to see the earth point for the tank solenoid screwed to a thin panel with a small tek screw. These need undoing and soldering to a wire extension that can be earthed inside the vehicle, eg behind the light cluster. A tek screw should only be used into a double layer of panel. If outside, an earth point needs to be covered in a mound of neutral cure silicone sealant.Any inline connection in a wet zone should be soldered and securely covered in heat shrink or quality tape. Dodgy gas fitters use bullet connectors loosely crimped to thin wires, which of course is a recipe for future problems.

    Oh and the "mess" is the injector cut wiring to stop the injectors firing, which won't stop the gas running.
    Thanks mate, I'm pretty sure the only fuses are the ones in the picture, a couple of more questions I noticed today that when I turn the car over the lights on the switch the yellow and green lights go away that's doesn't always happen also what would happen if the immobilizer was playing up.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by lars04 View Post
    Thanks mate, I'm pretty sure the only fuses are the ones in the picture, a couple of more questions I noticed today that when I turn the car over the lights on the switch the yellow and green lights go away that's doesn't always happen also what would happen if the immobilizer was playing up.
    Aha! Your ignition isn't supplying a run signal to the gas controller. Therefore you probably don't have spark or the signal wire has fallen off the coil. Try checking/hotwiring the +ve side of the ignition coil and see if this makes it go. If there is power at the coil but no spark your ignition module may have died. See here if that is indeed the case.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    Aha! Your ignition isn't supplying a run signal to the gas controller. Therefore you probably don't have spark or the signal wire has fallen off the coil. Try checking/hotwiring the +ve side of the ignition coil and see if this makes it go. If there is power at the coil but no spark your ignition module may have died. See here if that is indeed the case.
    When you say hot wire is that from the batt to the +ve? And I checked for spark yesterday and there is a spark at the plugs.
    Thanks for your help mate I do appreciate it.
    Lars.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by lars04 View Post
    When you say hot wire is that from the batt to the +ve? And I checked for spark yesterday and there is a spark at the plugs.
    Thanks for your help mate I do appreciate it.
    Lars.
    Yeah, that's what a hot wire should do. The immobiliser cuts this feed too from memory. A test light at this point will show that power is always present during cranking.

    Look for a wiring connection from your ignition coil -ve post to the AEB controller box. That's how they usually get their signal to run the gas solenoids.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    Yeah, that's what a hot wire should do. The immobiliser cuts this feed too from memory. A test light at this point will show that power is always present during cranking.

    Look for a wiring connection from your ignition coil -ve post to the AEB controller box. That's how they usually get their signal to run the gas solenoids.
    There is a wire going from the -ve to the box, so when I have ign in the on or acc position I'm getting power could it change when I crank it?

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by lars04 View Post
    There is a wire going from the -ve to the box, so when I have ign in the on or acc position I'm getting power could it change when I crank it?
    When you crank it the -ve coil terminal should pulse because that is how an ignition coil works.

  8. #18
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    Just thought I'd ask I'm not being lazy haha battery is dead so can't test it until tomorrow.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    When you crank it the -ve coil terminal should pulse because that is how an ignition coil works.
    No worries, cheers mate.
    Now I will be getting my new fuel pump in the mail soon I'm hoping that the gas problem won't happen to the fuel too. Could the same problem happen with that also. Just note that I have spark and power going to the pump plug.

  10. #20
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    Another possibility that has occurred to me is that your gas tank solenoid may have developed an internal short circuit. It would cause the controller to go into protective mode when starting. Try shoving 12V down the power wire to the gas tank and see if this operates the solenoid. Sometimes the anti-spike diode in the solenoids develop a short and a decent current surge just blows up the diode. The coil part still works fine after that.

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