That looks good Bob. Interested to see how the new knobs go.
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That looks good Bob. Interested to see how the new knobs go.
Classy bit of work right there. Ive got the same problem on the AVM's leaking past the knobs on my Lightweight , Didn't occur to me to redesign the knobs though . How do you dismantle the plastic knob from the alloy outer cover ? , all I succeeded in doing was pulling the spring out.
Hi goingbush
Thanks, to remove the switch:
remove the 5 torx screws
Place cap upside down and supported on the outer aluminium (I used the vice jaws)
The switch is held to the plastic helix by a couple of plastic lugs. Using a socket that fits inside the lugs give the socket a sharp tap and it will release. NOTE: These are not designed to be dismantled. On mine, one side I broke one of the lugs and the switch is not sold as a spare part.
On the helix you will see that there is a large and small tab. On reassembly the large tab needs to align with the 4x4 position.
Regards
Bob
Thanks Bob, I'll give it a bash . I damaged one of my Alloy outer covers on a rock so bought the cheapest AVM hub I could find that looked to have the same design, new single AVM jackaroo hub , $35.00 on eBay , The Outer Alloy cover & knob are the same & fit on the AVM LR hub body. (now have spare torx screws too) So I have something to experiment on.Quote:
Originally Posted by bobakers
cheers Don
Didn't exactly go to plan, theres lots of bits in there.
https://scontent-syd2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...c1&oe=5C91C407
Hmm , I wont be able to make one of these
https://scontent-syd2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...6f&oe=5C8D8EC9
I think the existing seal around the switch might be the problem, Ive twisted it here so you can see its not an o-ring but more a U shaped extrusion. A proper O-ring in there should solve the leaks , but its a risk to dismantle.
https://scontent-syd2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...9d&oe=5C9AC33D
Go Shute Upton[smilebigeye]
There is only the housing, splined star, two rotating cams with orings to seal.
Mal Story broached mine from coarse to fine spline back in 2000. Still going strong with no leaks.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7815/...77916e20_h.jpgShute Upton by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/141809689@N05/
Hi all
Well the first trial of the new switches lasted two days before the lhs started leaking. Changed the o rings to a different size and it's now been two weeks without the perentie marking it's territory.
Today was a good test, up the freeway to play around in the watagans (gap road + a couple of side tracks) then over to Stockton beach for some sand driving. Had to actually think and adapt compared to driving the old D4 on the beach. 4th low range worked well in the soft stuff and 2 hi range on the hard wet sand. Getting it wrong either meant a cloud of black smoke or the rear axles bouncing and banging around if there was too much torque
Attachment 147676Attachment 147677
Then a quick 2 1/2 hour run back down the freeway and no leaks. Was a top day and the truck ran great. Able to sit on 90k up the steeper hills on the freeway and was surprising how capable it is offroad.
Have been testing it on tracks that are far more difficult than what I would take it on once I have the body fitted, but its good to know that it has that capability if I was to get stuck.
Regards
Bob
Sounds good Bob. Any chance I could convince you to make up a 2nd set of those new knobs. I would love to have the freewheelers back on mine.
post up or send me a sketch with sizes of the knob......Quote:
Originally Posted by Bearman
