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Thread: 1/2 ton workshop trailer axle - solid or hollow?

  1. #11
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    I'm not really sure what to look for....

    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    If the axle is one piece from end to end it's more likely to be machined with the bearing stubs from solid. If the stub axles have been welded on it will be more likely to be hollow. If it were actually machined in one piece from hollow bar it would be visible under the bearing cap.
    It looks possible its machined from 1 solid piece ...



    There is a dust cover



    Once removed its easier to see that there appears to be a collar which is welded on the back edge



    you can see the unwelded edge here



    So maybe it is solid. That collar is the only point where the diameter is larger than 48mm - the diameter of the axle.

    However, there is also a weld on the end of the axle which doesn't make sense to me if it was solid ... would that be a smooth finish?



    Thanks Mick for the spacer idea - its a good suggestion, especially since it means no need to change the spring/shocker mounts. It gets me less than half way to the Defender track width - but it will be enough clearance from the arches of the 130 tub which will be mounted to this trailer.

    I picked up a 700mm long piece of 50mm pipe with a 5.4mm wall at my local steel merchant today, and also picked up some fish plates (the ones welded to the axle cannot be cut off cleanly and reused when the axle is extended) - so both options still live!
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  2. #12
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    If these really are 45mm (picture shows 30mm, heading says 45mm), and the studs are M16 (not m12 as indicated), these might be just the ticket for me.

    2 Wheel Spacer Adapter Landrover Defender Discovery Spacers 5x165 1 5x6 5 45mm | eBay

  3. #13
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    The welds inside each axle end suggest a hollow axle with a solid plug inserted in each end. No idea how deep the plug is, you'll be able to find out if you cut the axle in half.

  4. #14
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    Towe0609
    How did you get on?
    Your axle looks the same as mine, 48mm diameter hollow center 20 mm.
    If the axle was solid then they would not have welded a plug in the end.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozrob View Post
    Towe0609
    How did you get on?
    Your axle looks the same as mine, 48mm diameter hollow center 20 mm.
    If the axle was solid then they would not have welded a plug in the end.
    Yes, I'm convinced it is hollow ... but for now I've decided not to cut the axle to avoid then needing to move the spring/shocker mounts. I've ordered some spacers to get enough clearance in the tub wheel arches - will see how we go.

    My next challenge is finding some replacement shock absorbers. Any tips? I want to keep the costs down now - its getting a bit out of hand.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by towe0609 View Post
    .......
    My next challenge is finding some replacement shock absorbers. Any tips? I want to keep the costs down now - its getting a bit out of hand.
    1940s mil mb Jeep shocks I'm told, but check ( or maybe somebody will confirm).

    BTW, is there really a problem with the shocks ? ( I haven't read this whole thread) - you may just need new bushes (readily available & cheap).

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87County View Post
    is there really a problem with the shocks ? - you may just need new bushes (readily available & cheap).
    Not sure this is a reasonable test, but both shocks show a lot of resistance when 'expanding', but less resistance when 'compressing', one shows very little resistance at all when compressing.

  8. #18
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    Depending on the use you have planned for the trailer, I would be tempted to use the existing shocks with new bushes. After all, when this chassis is used for a No.5 trailer, there are generally no shocks at all. In fact you could leave them off and just have a normal trailer suspension.

    Really depends on whether it is a collector's item or for some practical use ��.

  9. #19
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    Are shocks on a workshop standard?? Buggered if I ever took notice.

    Either way from memory the springs on a 1/2 are super stiff.....

    I don't run shocks on my camper trailer at 1.2T

  10. #20
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    Trailer definitely for functional use, not a show piece. Will end up with a 130 tub on the chassis.

    I understand shocks were standard on the workshop trailers.

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