let me know if you have trouble getting any parts....also the cylinder maybe reusable if it doesnt have any deep scorring...the aluminium transfer can be cleaned off with acidQuote:
Originally Posted by isuzurover
Serg
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let me know if you have trouble getting any parts....also the cylinder maybe reusable if it doesnt have any deep scorring...the aluminium transfer can be cleaned off with acidQuote:
Originally Posted by isuzurover
Serg
Close:)Quote:
Originally Posted by greg smith
After reading the responses I thought maybe air was getting in the lines ( even though I had checked the lines) & I pulled on the fuel line at the carby to get a better look as its semi transparent.
I then ran it & all the symptoms disappeared:eek:. It now goes berserk:banana::clap2:,
So it was a kinked/ jammed fuel line..
Thanks for the replies, it gave me a second wind..
I tend to run a rich mixture, the occasional spark plug being the casualty. My McCulloch was retired after 25 years & 3-400 tonne of firewood, an old professional cutter told me "keep the oil up to em"
Give that man a kewpie dollQuote:
Originally Posted by slug_burner
good work,
make sure you use a good quality oil...Maxima, motul, sikolne etc...and definitly use NON ethonal fuel, here we have BP's 98 octane stuff, no ethonal.
doesnt matter what ratio you run, 50-1, 40-1, 32-1 just make sure you tune it to suit that ratio...
do not leave fuel mix in the saw for extended periods
always run clean air filters
SHARP chain goes along way to saw life
If ya gunna run it on the rich side, might be a good idea to keep the exhaust port clean, including or removing :D the spark arestor.
Cheers Dean.
I would check the muffler. Had a similar thing happen a few times with our lawmaker mower. Mud wasps both times. Cleaned it out and worked fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by amtravic1
having a few years experience with saws huskys in particular a few things to check and this goes for any saw prety much make sure the fuel lines are not rock hard or rotten and soft check the donkys doodle in the tank a coat hanger bent up in a hook shape can pull it out of the tank to to check it. hi and low speed screws should be set at one and a half turns out for base tune the saw should idle and rev from that point turn the high speed screw in till you get a high pitch scream and back it off till it starts to four stroke ie its no longer screaming but starting to run rough . from this point it should rev clean off idle to full revs if it bogs down wind the low speed screw in about 1/4 turn at a time till it will rev clean throu till it four strokes as previously set by the high speed screw . if its still not right bogs down or revs its tits off then you may have an air leak this could be as simple as the carb/manifold screws loose or gaskets split leaking or crank seals/gasket leaking the later are very un likely. if theres some call for it i could do a bit of a tutorial on carb clean/overhaul
Do it.Quote:
Originally Posted by 460cixy
I gave it a go on my mower. I felt a lot more confident as a result of things I picked up from this site as well as others.
I've had the same problem with a Stihl, it was indeed the muffler.Quote:
Originally Posted by amtravic1
Sometimes revved out but generally had no power. Tried everything else first.
be careful of using the saw at mid throttle.....chiansaws do not have a midrange fuel circut. they have idle and WOT... start saw and let idle for a bit to warm up. Always try and use saw at WOT in wood...if you require a lighter touch do so by using your hands or "feel" rather than running the saw at lower rpm. This can lead to leaning out.