Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12

Thread: Polish - Metallic paint

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Heathcote (in "The Shire")
    Posts
    5,348
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Polish - Metallic paint

    My daughter has an Astra with metallic paint that she want to spend this weekend polishing (we'll see) any recommendations on polish.


    Martyn

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Northern Windowlickersville WA
    Posts
    3,403
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Wash it with a heap of kero in the detergent.

    A bottle of 3M Finesse, a proper machine buff ( not those cheapass handheld plastic Supercrap ones) and proper foam finger buff pads graded for finishing cut/buff which is usually a fine white foam. DONT USE LAMBSWOOL!!!!
    If it's had silicone polish on it before your will need to wipe it down with prepsol first to remove it all.

    Make sure you don't do it in the sun and do it while paint is as cool as possible. Masking up is also a good idea.

    Once the Finesse has been done, use something like Meguiars Liquid Carnauba Wax on it and buff it off with soft cotton or with a foam polishing pad.
    Can be a big job but done properly once, makes it so much easier to keep looking top notch.

    Cheers

    Andrew


    Sent from my mobile tellingbone using rock carvings.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    townofme
    Posts
    31
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Well, IMO i would be more inclined to get a clay bar and clean the paint and then wax it. the old school "cut and polish" might have been fine on cars without a clear coat. Cut and polishing a car with a clear coat does sweat FA and damages the clear layer.

    Meguires makes some good gear, but they insist you buy the step by step bottles at like $17 a step. bugger that, just get a claybar kit and some wax.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Northern Windowlickersville WA
    Posts
    3,403
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by scrubber3006 View Post
    Well, IMO i would be more inclined to get a clay bar and clean the paint and then wax it. the old school "cut and polish" might have been fine on cars without a clear coat. Cut and polishing a car with a clear coat does sweat FA and damages the clear layer.

    Meguires makes some good gear, but they insist you buy the step by step bottles at like $17 a step. bugger that, just get a claybar kit and some wax.
    Finesse is a clearcoat polish, it's used by panelshops after blocking and cutting.
    Also used for duco to remove swirl marks from second cut prior to sealing.


    Sent from my mobile tellingbone using rock carvings.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Bathurst NSW
    Posts
    14,445
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Why not use Lambswool polisher LMR?
    <a href=https://the4wdzone.com.au/wp-content/uploads/logo.png target=_blank>https://the4wdzone.com.au/wp-content/uploads/logo.png</a>
    The 4wd Zone/Opposite Lock Bathurst
    263 Stewart Street, Bathurst, NSW
    http://www.the4wdzone.com.au/
    Discounts for AULRO members, just shoot me a PM before you purchase.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Northern Windowlickersville WA
    Posts
    3,403
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Ace View Post
    Why not use Lambswool polisher LMR?
    Lambswool is only useable for first hard cut on duco and it will swirl like a bitch. On clearcoat it will tear it apart and breakthru into the basecoat plus leave swirls everywhere. As the wool clogs quite quickly and loads up it has a tendency to leave burn marks on the paint from the buildup of paint and polish.

    All your intending to do is remove any rough or lightly oxidized paint so you need to use an ultrafine clearcoat finishing polish (Finesse) and a soft swirlfree pad hence the foam finger. These are a Velcro backed pad and will need a Velcro backing disc but well worth it. They will last you a while also, I've had my current set about 6 years and done probably about 15 jobs with the finish pad the worst for wear as it's done the most work. Have only had to use the cut pad two or three times on really bad paint with another 3M cutting compound.

    The D2's getting
    The treatment when I get home from holidays as it's never been done apart from original delivery by looking at it.
    A mate of mine was in the top 5 spray painters in WA and only worked on custom show and resto work for classics and hotrods. Gave me te rundown when I got my first Harley which was good nic but just badly neglected. Bought it back to a show winner without more than a strip clean and polish. The only polishing gear I've ever bought since from an autoshop since is Meguiars Liquid Carnauba as it's got no silicone.

    Cheers

    Andrew




    Sent from my mobile tellingbone using rock carvings.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Bathurst NSW
    Posts
    14,445
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks, I was watching american hot rod yesterday and they were finishing a freshly painted hotrod body with a lambswool polisher. Is that because they are cutting it back to get the really shiny finish?
    <a href=https://the4wdzone.com.au/wp-content/uploads/logo.png target=_blank>https://the4wdzone.com.au/wp-content/uploads/logo.png</a>
    The 4wd Zone/Opposite Lock Bathurst
    263 Stewart Street, Bathurst, NSW
    http://www.the4wdzone.com.au/
    Discounts for AULRO members, just shoot me a PM before you purchase.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Northern Windowlickersville WA
    Posts
    3,403
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Ace View Post
    Thanks, I was watching american hot rod yesterday and they were finishing a freshly painted hotrod body with a lambswool polisher. Is that because they are cutting it back to get the really shiny finish?
    Could be or using it without a polish after it's been waxed already but this will still produce minor swirls. Best to do it by hand


    Sent from my mobile tellingbone using rock carvings.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Bathurst NSW
    Posts
    14,445
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE View Post
    Could be or using it without a polish after it's been waxed already but this will still produce minor swirls. Best to do it by hand


    Sent from my mobile tellingbone using rock carvings.
    Yeah, im not sure what they were using, they were using some sort of polish with it. Dont know what it was though.
    <a href=https://the4wdzone.com.au/wp-content/uploads/logo.png target=_blank>https://the4wdzone.com.au/wp-content/uploads/logo.png</a>
    The 4wd Zone/Opposite Lock Bathurst
    263 Stewart Street, Bathurst, NSW
    http://www.the4wdzone.com.au/
    Discounts for AULRO members, just shoot me a PM before you purchase.

  10. #10
    Disco Rob Guest
    Being in the smash repair industry, i have never seen a lambswool buff used. We usually use a foam pad for cutting and polishing, and finish it off with a fingerpad, and we do use Finesse.

    At home, just for a polish i just use Auto Gylm, good polish, at a good price.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!