202 extractors.

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Originally Posted by rick130

I disagree Brian, a good set of interfernce pipes on a Holden work well IMO, although I do agree the old Holden cast headers are a good item, although again I wouldn't run a twin system right to the back but go into a single pipe for maximum torque (and I can't abide the note of a dual system on a straight six :D )

Any 'modern' XU-1 race car I've seen or worked on uses a single pipe system ;)

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Plus every little bit of power helps. Doesn't need to be an expensive engine to benefit from a good exhaust. I was actually going to run headers to an x-force Varex muffler and then dump it out the side in front of the passenger rear tyre. But now that the manifold isn't the issue I can't convince the wife that it's a good idea.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rick130

I disagree Brian, a good set of interfernce pipes on a Holden work well IMO, although I do agree the old Holden cast headers are a good item, although again I wouldn't run a twin system right to the back but go into a single pipe for maximum torque (and I can't abide the note of a dual system on a straight six :D )

Any 'modern' XU-1 race car I've seen or worked on uses a single pipe system ;)

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Then you are disagreeing with no less than Phil. Irving. Remember, this is not a race car, but a street engine whose owner is seeking a bit more oomph. In the case of a maximum output engine as in a race car then extractors that are matched to the rest of the intake-exhaust tract are necessary.

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Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm

Then you are disagreeing with no less than Phil. Irving. Remember, this is not a race car, but a street engine whose owner is seeking a bit more oomph. In the case of a maximum output engine as in a race car then extractors that are matched to the rest of the intake-exhaust tract are necessary.

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Tuned length, not interference ;)

Interference style pipes as originally developed by HM, then others will help overall performance without any downsides on a stock engine.

The last of the Black engines that was fuel injected (VK ?) ran a set of two-three-one stainless steel pipes rather than the traditional three-two-one style.
If they weren't worth anything GM-H wouldn't have gone to the expense of fitting them ;)

Oh, and as for disagreeing with 'Deities', I've disagreed with 'em before, no one that's human is infallible :angel:

New here and stumbled across this post. Just on the original question, a couple of tips I have picked up over the years. Another method for finding an exhaust leak or even a rattle/knock is a piece of tube in your ear and then direct the opening to various suspect points - it narrows down the orchestra of noises to just one point. Also you will find compression testers pretty cheap to buy ($30?) and it will be one tool you will find yourself not using much but over time will pay for itself many times over in time saved chasing probs - and will last forever. Doesn't need to be the best quality to solve a lot of problems since you are mainly comparing if compression is even. Whenever i buy a new car (including my landy that had a misfire) only takes a few minutes to test. And a squirt of oil in the bore to temporarily seal up the rings can narrow down a valves vs rings problem. My misfire was simply a dodgy spark plug and the PO had tried all sorts of stuff to solve.

Should probably put this in a separate post but in case someone sees and can help, is their an easy way eg engine number to tell what capacity a red motor is. I have a S3 I will wreck and don't see myself using the red motor so will ebay it or something - have done a compression check but don't know what it is!

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Originally Posted by Craigb

New here and stumbled across this post. Just on the original question, a couple of tips I have picked up over the years. Another method for finding an exhaust leak or even a rattle/knock is a piece of tube in your ear and then direct the opening to various suspect points - it narrows down the orchestra of noises to just one point. Also you will find compression testers pretty cheap to buy ($30?) and it will be one tool you will find yourself not using much but over time will pay for itself many times over in time saved chasing probs - and will last forever. Doesn't need to be the best quality to solve a lot of problems since you are mainly comparing if compression is even. Whenever i buy a new car (including my landy that had a misfire) only takes a few minutes to test. And a squirt of oil in the bore to temporarily seal up the rings can narrow down a valves vs rings problem. My misfire was simply a dodgy spark plug and the PO had tried all sorts of stuff to solve.

Should probably put this in a separate post but in case someone sees and can help, is their an easy way eg engine number to tell what capacity a red motor is. I have a S3 I will wreck and don't see myself using the red motor so will ebay it or something - have done a compression check but don't know what it is!

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Thanks for the advice. As for the red motor, it should ( if it's a later block, have the size in block letters under the exhaust manifold towards the front, 202ci for example is 3.3 I think


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