Thread: Ford 289 overheating problem

Ean a shroud will help, are you using coolant in the water, try a new thermostat and radiator cap, check hoses aren't collapsing. If that doesn't help go to your local radiator place get them to do a thorough flush of the block and radiator, is the radiator a six cylinder or V8 one, big difference. If the engine was imported from USA esp. if from Northern States where it snows, water left in the block can freeze and crack the bores, usually at the crankcase end and usually at one end of the block, depending which way the engine was sitting, check to see if you are getting any water in the oil. That should keep you busy for a while, let us know how it goes, Regards Frank.

I used to have to run both my Windsor and clevo's without a thermostat, only way I could get them to run cool enough.

Originally Posted by Tank

Ean a shroud will help, are you using coolant in the water, try a new thermostat and radiator cap, check hoses aren't collapsing. If that doesn't help go to your local radiator place get them to do a thorough flush of the block and radiator, is the radiator a six cylinder or V8 one, big difference. If the engine was imported from USA esp. if from Northern States where it snows, water left in the block can freeze and crack the bores, usually at the crankcase end and usually at one end of the block, depending which way the engine was sitting, check to see if you are getting any water in the oil. That should keep you busy for a while, let us know how it goes, Regards Frank.

Gday Frank,

The engine came out of a mustang that has been in Brisbane for 20 yrs maybe longer, the code on the block is its a 63 build.

I bought a new radiator, supposedly for 289/302W V8 as the fittings on the Rad are both drivers side. I looked back at my receipt and it says V8 Ford Radiator, but in physical size it doesn't seem any bigger than the 6 cyl rad that came out.

I have run the engine with the top hose removed and a hose filling the rad and the water pump is pumping plenty of water, so am confident its not that, have no traces of water, or condensation in the oil, or visa versa, so am very confident its not a head gasket.

The temp rises just steadily, its not just a big jump, like my D1 when it done a head gasket.

The hoses and rad cap are all new, exhaust system is new, and the engine is at idle at 550 rpm and timing is at 6* BTDC all as the manual states is correct.

Carby is a 4brl autolite that according to the manual I have was standard on the 289 mustang V8.

I am unsure about the rad cap, but it came new supplied with the rad, but when the car is hot, no water comes out the small overflow, which when you hear the bubbling I thought some would come out due to the expansion. I have run it with coolant, with the thermostat in and out and still the same result. 10 minutes max before the gauges are at 100 deg with the car sitting at idle.

I have put a flush thru the system, but am going to remove the rad and might take it to the local place and ask if they can check it. I can feel air being drawn thru the rad if I put my hand on the front,

Maybe I got sent a 6 cyl one by mistake.

Cheers Ean

It sounds a bit like a 3.9 D1 that I once worked on. It ended up being a scaly blockage at the back of one of the heads so that water flow seemed normal but it was all through one bank only.

If you remove the water pump can you back flush the block one side at a time?

What Bee utey says could be right a build up of rust scale can impede not only water flow but heat transfer as well, if this is the case you might have to eventually knock out the side (block) welch plugs and get a probe in there and break up the scale, I dont know of a store bought rust remover that would do the job. A local rad. bloke might have something that could get rid large scaly bits of rust that can block water transfer holes. Windsor blocks don't normally run hot, I'll do some reading up on the water jacket and head cooling system on the 289 and get back to you, Regards Frank.

If it gets hot idling it's air movement, excluding any mechanical issue, head gasket etc, if it gets hot driving at 100, it's water movement

Good fan, good shroud set up correctly

Put a new t/stat in, check it in a pot of water and thermometer first

People always underestimate the fan/shroud setup importance

Gday All,

May have had some success, Done this today,

Removed radiator and flushed with hose for about 15 mins, new radiator and nothing odd came out but had to try.
Removed waterpump Flushed both sides of block for ages, and never really seen any crap or crud come out, removed thermostat and tested all ok, flushed block from thermostat housing.

Re-installed everything and run with top hose off and hose just running into radiator, then hooked up top hose and used different radiator cap and the car got to 82 degree at idle for 15 mins.

Personally I think it may have been the cap, but not sure.

Have ordered a fan shroud and will install it as well.

Many thanks to all who replied.

Cheers Ean

Originally Posted by rovercare

Good fan, good shroud set up correctly


People always underestimate the fan/shroud setup importance

Very important,ask any fridgie/Ac tech........
Any propeller fan looses it's efficiency when not positioned correctly in it's correct shroud.