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Thread: Kubota motor help

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    24,485
    Sure can.

    DEX III is auto trans fluid, the last of the old school stuff before synthetics became mainstream, Its short for Dexron III. in truth any old school mineral base auto fluid will most likely do the job. I'll got upto a 1/3 of the sumps capacity.

    A high speed lightly loaded run means just that, Get the load off the engine get it up on max governed speed. As its driving a hyd pump setup you need to work out how to unload the hydraulics if its a swash plate set the plate flat, if its through a relief valve block configuration you need to open everything for full flow back to tank outside of the relief valve.

    The next trick is shock loading it, Easy with a gen set, less so with hydraulics if you dont have a swash plate pump you can manually operate the plate on. Basically get its RPM's up and the engine temp to normal and then dump the load on, All of it and then some. I routinely shock load generators to 120% of their nominated output but only for 10 seconds or so at a time I then let it recover for 20 seconds and hit it again. IF its chucking big nasty chunks of crud out the exhaust I just keep hitting it till it gives me a temp warning then I let it idle down cool down and I do it again. If its not making chunks out the exhaust I put it on 100% load until it stops smoking, unload it, let it idle and then hit it again. if it doesnt smoke on ramp up its done.

    Water meth spray is just that Grab a suitable sized spray bottle and with the aircleaner off spray it into intake. do it intitially with a light load and at lower speeds and see what it does, then up the RPM's and Load and spray rate.

    If its exeptionally bad glazing caused by oil carmalizing and burning up into the bores theres another trick that you can do and you ONLY do this once and VERY carefully.

    grab a very finely powdered handful of AJAX or sodium bicarbonate and I mean almost talcum poweder fine hand sieved and recrushed if you need to and useing a compressed air source with the engine running at max RPMS dust the intake with it. this will regrind the bores on the fly. It will also contaminate the oil and build up on the rings. After you dust the engine you MUST spray it down with a clean water spray to get it out of the manifold and if possible with the engine on over run (so full RPM then snap the throttle control to idle and while the engine is over goverened speed spray the water in)

    and your very very last trick in the book to get the crap out of the pots is....

    a water/metho/petrol mix.

    get the engine running fast, cut the throttle and then spray the mix into the intake. DO NOT DO THIS if you have blended oil in the engine OR the fuel set to the run/make power position when you spray the mix in.

    the mix ratio is about 50% metho, 30% petrol and 20% water, the engine will make very bad noises BUT you should be able to keep it running, you want as much water in the mix as you can possibly get and still keep it running. this softens up the carbon and abuses the crap out of the pistons and rings and bearings and IF you get it way wrong can make the internally bits of the engine seek the outside world. This is occasionally spectacular.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    TDI D1(its responded well to its lecture about poor performance)

    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Banana Qld
    Posts
    188
    thumbnail_IMG_20160925_170240.jpgthumbnail_IMG_20160925_170228.jpg
    Sorry that its taken me this long to respond with the results of the motor.
    Following Blknights advice, we found a short piston.
    The big job was to get the motor out of the excavator! Oil pressure sender wires had been broken off a long time ago.
    Found con rod #2 was a problem
    New pistons, rods and rings all round. rest looked as good as new.
    A big day to put it back together again, (Glad I took a heap of pics) and it started and runs perfect.
    Thanks all for advice and thoughts, esp Blknight

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