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Thread: Camper trailer wiring question

  1. #11
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    The infamous 3-way dometic is a cluster****,,

    it draws 15A running down the hiway,,
    and you cant run it on it best fuel, LPG, untill you stop driving.

    of course its sold to caravan owners that stop at van parks,, just plug it in .
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  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Adelaide
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    A solar panel wiring question. Iím wiring 2 identical panels: 130w, 18v max, 7.5amp

    Wiring them parallel is the go isnít it? I was thinking of running 6b&s from the controller to the roof & putting a weather proof junction box under a panel & connecting up all the positives to the positive feed and the negatives to the negative feed.

    So...assuming this is right...if I ever buy 3rd 12v panel with different amp & watts would I just connect up the red & black wires?
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    Bracken Ridge - Brisbane - QLD
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    18v max?? Is that open circuit voltage, sound a little low.

    Parallel is fine

    I run 6B&S to mine and yes just connect the + and -Ďs

    I regularly at additional solar panel that are not the same spec....seems to just work.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Crafers West South Australia
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    11,758
    Quote Originally Posted by weeds View Post
    18v max?? Is that open circuit voltage, sound a little low.

    Parallel is fine

    I run 6B&S to mine and yes just connect the + and -Ďs

    I regularly at additional solar panel that are not the same spec....seems to just work.
    Parallel is fine for simple solar controllers. If you purchase a MPPT controller you can wire them in series, but adding other panels is then difficult.

    Example MPPT controller

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Logan
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    20,213
    Your solar panels should have controllers on them and they should state a maximum output, so that helps with sizing fuses.
    Another option is just to run the power from the vehicle to the trailer to a DC-DC there to overcome voltage drop and boost the charge to the battery. That way you don't need Anderson plugs or a DC-DC in the vehicle.
    I think it's better to pick up the power from the vehicle in a way which cuts when the engine stops, so your van can't flatten the vehicle, so I wouldn't power the van from the second battery in the vehicle.
    2009 Defender 110 2.4. ARB bulbar, Ironman winch, Safari snorkel, Steinbauer chip, AP HD clutch, Lightforce spots, larger tank, Off Road Systems drawer, Traxide 160 controller, Tekonsha brakes, Mulgo seat runners, Uniden UHF, Nuggetstuff seat corners, breathers, Polaris GPS.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    Adelaide
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    Iíve got a Victron 100/30 controller with Bluetooth dongle.

    Hereís a pic of the faded sticker on the back of the panel

    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Adelaide
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    1,108
    I think Iím having problems with my Victron 100/30. Hereís a screen shot:



    Iíve got the 2 x 130w panels on the camper roof. They each have an Anderson plug and each is running via 6mm (4mm2) twin to the 100/30. Iíve wired them parallel. Some forums have indicated that series is a better way of wiring.

    As you can see from the screenshot the system isnít producing watts or amps and the battery isnít charging. Could it be that the 20v is too low & if I wire in series it will fix the problem?

    Incidentally, I ran 3b&s from the D2 2nd battery to a 120amp (plus a 50amp next to it) Anderson plug on the towbar, then onto the camper battery via an 80 amp fuse (at the dual battery also). There is no voltage drop between the dual battery and the camper battery (over 13v - canít remember exact figure). No BCDC charger necessary - nice. Gotta love the large disco alternator.

    Just need to work out why the panels arenít charging...
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

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