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Thread: Circuit Breakers - Household Hot Water System - One for the electricians

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    11,196
    The Instantaneous gas heater doesn't have a problem with the calcium build up or corrosion that the old tank did and we never run out of hot water except when the gas bottle runs out (which I normally cop).
    I was camping at Millstream Chichester and there was a gas instantaneous at the camp kitchen.
    It was completely blocked by the calcium in the water as I found from the tech sent to fix it.

    I also met a bloke there in a 80 series who had a genuine radiator fitted 1 year earlier which sprung a leak in a core. He lived in Karratha . Obviously the dealer had used tap water to fill it!

    The water over there is certainly full of Calcium Carbonate.
    So be wary of the Calcium.

    I did the calculations on my situation based on manufacturer grams per hour etc and found bottled gas to be incredibly expensive to operate.
    Don't even mention those evil heat exchanger thingos which now seem to have disappeared without trace. I cannot have solar as my roof is in shade for about 4months.
    Regards Philip A

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    New Lambton, NSW
    Posts
    552
    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    Hi Craig - thanks for the response - yes I guess it is one of those. Here are pics of the two control boxes - there are two active wires coming into the bottom control box - the closest goes straight to the top.

    Attachment 139905Attachment 139906

    Bottom unit to the left and top unit on the right - pics are actually upright but the process tips them over.

    It is shorting where the two red wires are on the top unit - crackles a bit and may pop but not straight away power can be on for hours before it pops the circuit breakers - I assume water is leaking in from the tank (no visual evidence though) but and slowly shorting until the short exceeds 20 amps and pops the circuit breakers.

    Craig - actually I am leaving now to head to Belmont as that is where my family comes from. By any chance do you live with that family of Landrovers (RR, and D2s) that are on the highway opposite the High School?

    Hi Vern - thanks I am not an an electrician and only have basic knowledge so not sure how to do what you suggest.

    I am out of time so - the pics will not right themselves, on the right hand pic I have disconnected the brown active power wire and isolated it with shrink tube, I have removed the blue neutral wire and isolated it and left the silver earth in place. I am assuming that with only one person in the house until I get back home, the bottom off peak element will heat the water enough.

    When I get back I will get my neighbour who is an electrician to have a look and if the themostat heating unit can be replaced insitu -great if a new water system is needed - that is bad $$$$$$$.

    Thanks

    Garry
    Hi Garry,
    No not me, unfortunately I only own one LR!
    Craig

    Good idea about the helping hand!
    Should be just an element replacement?
    If you disconnected the top element and now no hot water it could also be the bottom ones been stuffed for a while as well and just heating off the top??

    Craig

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra Australia
    Posts
    14,529
    Quote Originally Posted by Lemo View Post
    If you disconnected the top element and now no hot water it could also be the bottom ones been stuffed for a while as well and just heating off the top??

    Craig
    You could be right there. However on reviewing the pics again I see that the neutral wire does not go straight to the bottom element but to the top where the thermostat is and it then returns to the bottom element- I disconnected it at the top so I effectively disconnected power on the neutral side to the entire system . Maybe I should have better understood what Vern said. Also on thinking about it more I should have just disconnected the red wire on the bottom end of the thermostat at the top so power would be isolated to the top element and not the bottom. If I had more time when I did it I would have sussed that.

    Anyway not my worry at the moment as I have hot water here in Belmont while my flatmate has cold water in Canberra - I bet he is starting to get a bit stinky.

    Cheers

    Garry
    REMLR 243

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  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    South West Rocks
    Posts
    6,847
    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    You could be right there. However on reviewing the pics again I see that the neutral wire does not go straight to the bottom element but to the top where the thermostat is and it then returns to the bottom element- I disconnected it at the top so I effectively disconnected power on the neutral side to the entire system . Maybe I should have better understood what Vern said. Also on thinking about it more I should have just disconnected the red wire on the bottom end of the thermostat at the top so power would be isolated to the top element and not the bottom. If I had more time when I did it I would have sussed that.

    Anyway not my worry at the moment as I have hot water here in Belmont while my flatmate has cold water in Canberra - I bet he is starting to get a bit stinky.

    Cheers

    Garry
    That is why i said the neutral wires at the top thermostat MUST be joined, that's the only way to complete the neutral circuit if by passing the top element.
    The neutral wires are switched via the top thermostat.
    Damien
    ------------------------------------------------

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    11,196

    HELP! from sparkies please

    On 30/7/2018 I bought a new Robertshaw thermostat model CS9610N from Reece for my Hardie Dux 315L single thermostat model which runs on controlled 1. Paid $51 which is a lot I now find.
    Yesterday water is cool again.
    I checked element resistance at about 11.5 Ohms and to earth about 10Mega Ohms.
    So I assume the element is OK.
    I removed the thermostat and I have continuity at room temperature between terminals 3 ( neutral) and 4( element) but no continuity between 1(active) and 2 (element). The excess temperature button had not popped.

    Am I correct in assuming that at room temperature there should be continuity?

    I adjusted the cutout temp and tested but no difference, and pressed the disc in but no difference.
    This is expected but I think there should be continuity at room temperature as the device is just mechanical thing that should not depend on power , as it only depends on the disc distorting to open the contacts at the set temp, in my case 60C.
    Urgent help needed as SWMBO is not impressed.
    Regards Philip A
    I am wondering if the thermostat has failed or no ripple for the last two nights.
    BTW, I have the thermostat at my computer and just manually tripped the over temp button by pressing on the disc. It disconnects the neutral side.

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