Galvanising an ARB bullbar. Is it possible to get a decent finish?

I had an article that I made as part of a larger project galvanised last year. The finish is rough and lumpy, which did not matter. My item- a drainage tray for a pedal-powered pottery wheel- was a tiny thing in the midst of a staggering array of large industrial stairways, vats, hoppers, beams and the like which was obviously their main business stream. They're not going to alter their process for something that attracts minimum fee. Your bullbar will be in this category. I would think you are going to be doing some kind of follow-up process to smooth the finish.
And yes, get their advice where to put your drain holes. If the dippers decide it needs more holes, they will blow them in with an oxy torch and charge you $70 a hole.

Last time I had any galvanising done was the columns on my veranda some years ago but the finish is smooth for the most part - there are a couple of drips on the edges that are a bit rough but on the main areas - it's 100 x 100 box section - it's beautiful and smooth so not sure what makes things rough - maybe it could be the amount of edges a bullbar has.

Can you find the manufacture of the bullbars you've seen that are smooth and call them to see who they use?

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Originally Posted by Grappler

I understand why you would want to galvanise your ARB bullbar. The factory coating is poor quality and does not last.
Every ARB bar including the "Australian made delux", Ive owned, has rusted quickly under the surface coating causing it to bubble and lift

I would definitely consider galvanising, if I was to restore mine. Preparation and stripping the original would be laborious and as mentioned any sealed sections would require vent/drain holes

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We have had the same issue,the coating on their bars,racks,towbars,etc seems very poor.

In fact for the next vehicle i will look around a bit more for a bar with a better coating.

We have had bars re powder coated at a local place and the coating is way better,than the original,and no issues after 10yrs.

What we have found is if the ARB bar is colour matched to the vehicle,the coating is good,because it is done locally,but the black bars,racks,etc seem to have the poorer quality coating.

I fitted a new ARB bulbar to my D2a about4/5 years ago and after a few animal strikes, much scrub bashing and spending a LOT of time at the beach there is NO rust anywhere on it because I tend to touch up the paint when it gets scratched off.

Galvanising is a great way of protecting steel from rust but it is pretty soft and will scratch off just like paint does and it is Much more expensive/difficult to touch up.

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Originally Posted by trout1105

Galvanising is a great way of protecting steel from rust but it is pretty soft and will scratch off just like paint does and it is Much more expensive/difficult to touch up.

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It shouldn't scratch off but anyway zinc is sacrificial so a scratch in the surface and the steel below shouldn't rust.
For years Land Rover used galvanising on any high wear parts of the body, the cappings etc. on my 60odd year old Series I are still rust free.

Colin

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Originally Posted by scarry

We have had the same issue,the coating on their bars,racks,towbars,etc seems very poor.

In fact for the next vehicle i will look around a bit more for a bar with a better coating.

We have had bars re powder coated at a local place and the coating is way better,than the original,and no issues after 10yrs.

What we have found is if the ARB bar is colour matched to the vehicle,the coating is good,because it is done locally,but the black bars,racks,etc seem to have the poorer quality coating.

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Naaa.. sorry the colour matched coating on ARB is crap..it is too thin and fragile too.

Main reason? .well the bars are made in Indo.. ARB can't get Aussie to sit and weld all day apparently .. and are powder coated std.

In Aus they are colour matched but the powder coating is only roughed up a bit therefore the 2 pack don't adhere well and chips too easily. Ask any professional painter who'll tell you to sand blast the powder coating off b 4 painting.

Even with the underlying powder coat they still rust....check out forum feedback...lot's of concern there.☺

Info source: ARB Engineer... as a result of our GU colour matched bull bar chipping..scratching. and rusting within days...my plastic zipper ripped of a whole line and we could easily remove the paint with a finger nail.

They said initially the paint was not fully dry.. ha ha ha[emoji2] or it was damaged in transit or the we should have paid them to install it etc etc etc.

We gave up and will fix it properly ourselves.

[QUOTE=INter674;2973369

Main reason? .well the bars are made in Indo.. ARB can't get Aussie to sit and weld all day apparently .. and are powder coated std.

.[/QUOTE]

You're having a laugh aren't you ?

Robot welded.
I'm sure that Aussie bars are made at Kilsyth, Thailand factory make bars for rest of world (also robot welded).
Can't comment on the painting, mine is over 20 years old & OK but it spends a lot of time in the garage.

I'll check with someone next week.

As for putting in a centrifuge after galvanising.... i though this was for nuts & bolts, small brackets etc to stop them sticking togethet rather than a large item like a bullbar.


Colin

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Originally Posted by gromit

You're having a laugh aren't you ?

Robot welded.
I'm sure that Aussie bars are made at Kilsyth, Thailand factory make bars for rest of world (also robot welded).
Can't comment on the painting, mine is over 20 years old & OK but it spends a lot of time in the garage.

I'll check with someone next week.

As for putting in a centrifuge after galvanising.... i though this was for nuts & bolts, small brackets etc to stop them sticking togethet rather than a large item like a bullbar.


Colin

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FWIW I've been told older model cars like the D2 are fabbed in Thailand too.
I was waiting for a batch to go through but went with a TJM as they had stock.

TJM's older car model bars are made in the PRC, and the surface treatment under the powder coating isn't flash either.
My 2.5yo one needs sand blasting and re-coating, the powder coat is bubbling up all over.

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Originally Posted by rick130

FWIW I've been told older model cars like the D2 are fabbed in Thailand too.
I was waiting for a batch to go through but went with a TJM as they had stock.

TJM's older car model bars are made in the PRC, and the surface treatment under the powder coating isn't flash either.
My 2.5yo one needs sand blasting and re-coating, the powder coat is bubbling up all over.

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That would make sense, not worth setting up for a short run at Aussie labour rates.

Colin

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Originally Posted by INter674

Naaa.. sorry the colour matched coating on ARB is crap..it is too thin and fragile too.

In Aus they are colour matched but the powder coating is only roughed up a bit therefore the 2 pack don't adhere well and chips too easily. Ask any professional painter who'll tell you to sand blast the powder coating off b 4 painting.

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Sorry,but the paint on my colour matched ARB bar on the D4,after 8 yrs is still in fantastic condition,as good as new.Maybe i was lucky,i did know a guy at ARB at the time,and got it at a well discounted price.

But being white it does show every bug mark,and is a PITA to keep clean.I won't get a white one again.

But the ARB bar on the Deefer in my sig,was not colour matched to the vehicle,and both it,the tow bar and roof rack,all ARB,were very poorly powder coated and we had them redone by Ben,i think his name is, at APT.That was quite a few years ago,and the coating is still perfect.

The son has recently had an Ironman bar fitted to his LC 76,and it seems reasonable well coated,i suppose time will tell.

Oh,and the galvanising on the Series1 bumper is great,after 60 plus yrs,including quite a few on Fraser island.......[biggrin]