I won’t post a pic of the boat here but you can see it on my Facebook page - search ‘Lee Fitzpatrick’.
Yep, folding panel blanket is a goid idea.
I won’t post a pic of the boat here but you can see it on my Facebook page - search ‘Lee Fitzpatrick’.
Hi again Barraman, your requirements are not exactly what I would call an RV situation.
But that aside, your setup works fine for you, so all is well.
If you do decide to go to lithium batteries, just a couple of suggestions, I sell quite a few of the Sterling Pro Charge B units, primarily for trolling use.
These units have one of the best Lithium charging algorithms available ( it’s actually a German based program ).
But because it sounds like you are going to be using these batteries full time, I suggest you use the AMERICAN GEL setting on the Sterling Pro Charge B unit.
This setting charges at 14.0v, instead of the 14.4v the Lithium setting charges at.
For normal everyday RV use, the Lithium setting is perfect, but when lithium batteries are use in long term heavy duty use like it sounds you would be using them, the Lithium setting can be a bit hard on batteries, and by using the AMERICAN GEL setting, you will help to extend the life of the batteries.
The other suggestion is to make sure you get good quality Lithium batteries, as there are some pretty crappy batteries out there now.
A word of caution, do not use a lithium starting battery with any Yamaha gear as I have heard through the industry that there are problems where they can damage the electronics in these types of motors and companies like Yamaha are voiding warranties if lithium starting batteries are used. Double check this one to be on the safe side and also check to see if using lithium house batteries will also void the warranty. Your trolling batteries are fine.
While I use to sell ProMariner battery chargers, I now only sell the Sterling versions. They are the same chargers, made through a Joint Venture Development between Sterling and ProMariner, it is just that Sterling offers far better backup, right here in Australia, through Sterling -Power-Australasia.
https://sterling-power-australasia.com.
Well I kinda had to install a DC-DC today...
Was a little worried about restricting charge rate to 40amp/hr.
200amp/hr battery was at 70% when I collected the car....
Running around today do a few errands with an under performing solar arrangement (Max. Watts was 105) battery was topped up to 100%.
That was with no load on the battery.
Fridge on and will stay on and a weekend of camping will give me a better idea
DC DC controls the charge voltage and current supplied to the auxiliary battery without interference from the vehicle electrics eg. Spotlights or air conditioner compressor turning off and on.
This represent a more consistent and precise way to control the charging process and it will also respond appropriately to auxiliary battery only loads eg. fridges.
Because car alternators are not designed for lithium batteries and these batteries have very low charge resistance (allowing massive charge currents), the alternator can supply this very large current and the battery BMS max currents limits are also very high you can end up with a smoking alternator (with rather bad results), especially if your vehicle is stationary ie. no air flow.
Other standard lead based batteries (wet, AGM, calciumJ have a high higher charge resistance which self limits the charge current it can accept. If you push high currents into these batteries they will heat up, turning any energy they cannot accept into heat.
Victron have a very good yout-be video demonstrating this problem with lithiums running off a vehicle alternator.
This issue applies equally to standard / variable voltage / smart alternators.
Never run a lithium without a DC DC - DC DC will restrict power transfer to charge the auxiliary to acceptable levels for your alternator.
DC DC will also galvanically isolate your car electrics from your auxiliary electrics - donÂ’t get them crossed up somewhere else in your wiring - common ground is fine.
A DC DC will also overcome the voltage drop problem resulting from long wire runs and auxiliary battery loads PROVIDED the DC DC is reasonably close to the auxiliary battery - you need the right voltage at the battery it is charging not down the other end of a long wire where you have already lost 0.5v for example, from wire resistance losses. Prime example - using a DC DC mounted under the bonnet to charge caravan / camper trailer batteries.
And remember the thicker the wire the less loss per metre of wire.
Blue Seas have an excellent wire size versus current chart versus run length for selecting the appropriate wire size.
It also provides choices of acceptable wire run voltage drops and a seperate fuse type / size chart.
FYI - the standard auto twin pair cable in Australia is not what it may appear. 6mm auto is NOT 6mm2 (more like 4.5mm2). The Blue Seas charts refer to mm2. Also B&S is the same as AWG (one is Aussie and the American Wire Gauge).
i could go on but will leave it to some reasonable questions.
One thing to watch with VSR's is that the current you're asking them to handle isnt above their rating or they burn out...
If you've got a near flat battery on the "delivery" side of a VSR and a near fully charged battery plus all the ergatrons of an alternator on the supply side its very easy, for a very brief period to dump many buckets of amps across it.
I've pegged a 200A clamp meter when a VSR clicks in trying to charge a pair of N55's (solar supported house batteries)at a little over 10v from a pair of N70's (winch/start batteries) at 13.7V with a 55A alternator adding its bit. Only takes a couple of handfulls of times and your VSR will clag. Which explains why the owner went through 3 of them before deciding it may not be faulty units (admittedly, they were chineesium alibabwaaaahhh units)
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Hi jrt70 and sorry mate but that is a complete fabrication, as is the Victron video which has already been covered.
They get a small alternator and run it at maximum RPM, and maximum load, with no cooling what so ever and it cooks. Surprise, surprise.
They then get a much bigger alternator and put a current limiting device on it and run it at about half it’s designed maximum current output, and what do you know, it does not cook.
If they ran the smaller alternator at half its designed current capacity, it to would not cook. Or if they put a decent air flow over it when it was running at maximum output, it wouldn’t have cooked.
I know of quite a few people who charge lithium batteries direct off their alternators.
One guy lives in his van full time and regularly charges his 4 x 100Ah lithium house batteries straight off his alternator when driving from one location to another, in his Land Cruiser.
It is common for him to drive for 3+ hours straight, which means his alternator is running full bore for all that time, and he isn’t “smoking” his alternator when ever he charges his lithium batteries on the run. And he has very thick cabling to his van.
Another thing, if you were running an alternator at such high revs while stationary, that you risked cooking the alternator because of the lack of air flow. Mate you would cook your motor way before you “smoked” your alternator.
Finally, yes a DC/DC device can fully charge batteries, but they take hours more than an alternator and even SMART alternators can FULLY CHARGE batteries, you just have to drive long enough for either system to be able to have the time to fully charge the batteries, and when given the time, an alternator will charge the batteries faster.( in a shorter time ).
B/S is B/S and that is what is used to sell many of these wonder devices.
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