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Thread: Repair cracked sump without removal

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    Repair cracked sump without removal

    My skidsteer has been losing a lot of oil. Its on the hoist and I found the sump has a crack about 25mm long. Its engine out to fix but thats not an option. I was thinking to use blind pop rivets to fix a plate with some Sikaflex type adhesive all around and over the crack.
    Any suggestions on what to use? Has to be heat and oil proof of course.
    Any other suggestions welcome.
    Keith

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    p38arover's Avatar
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    Fuel tank repair kit?
    Ron B.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 123rover50 View Post
    My skidsteer has been losing a lot of oil. Its on the hoist and I found the sump has a crack about 25mm long. Its engine out to fix but thats not an option. I was thinking to use blind pop rivets to fix a plate with some Sikaflex type adhesive all around and over the crack.
    Any suggestions on what to use? Has to be heat and oil proof of course.
    Any other suggestions welcome.
    Keith
    Interesting conundrum. What material is the sump? One thing I would suggest is identifying the very ends of the crack and drilling a small hole there to hopefully prevent it growing, which it could do under whatever patch you use.

    Some Sika stuff is not resistant to organic oil, but their black Appliance stuff is, apparently. The big green hardware mob stock it.
    Last edited by Tins; 19th March 2023 at 01:21 PM. Reason: Stupid autocorrect
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    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    I used JB Weld to patch a crack in a diff housing cover. Used a dremel to drill the end (the other was in a hole) and vee out the crack, then abrade all the area around it to ensure it had a good key. My intention was to remove the epoxy and weld it up when I had a chance.

    That was 8 years ago.
    MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.

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    After I posted, I did wonder about cleaning off the oil. I'm sure it would continue to weep and make it difficult to get a bond.
    Ron B.
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    Thanks. Good ideas there. Its thin tin stuff with indentations for strength. I was going to hit it with short blob welds with the stick so as to not get too hot. That Sikaflex sounds good. I cant clean it properly in the crack so I think the JB might not be as good for this application.These skidsteers are worse to work on than Land Rovers.
    Keith

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    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    My only concern with that is if you can't clean the crack that when you weld it the oil will run and burn, contaminating the weld.

    Do you know anyone with a TIG? You could weld a patch over the top. Come to think of it, I repaired a hole in a steel transmission fluid line by silver soldering a patch over the top.
    MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.

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    p38arover's Avatar
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    I was going to suggest silver solder as it melts at a lower temp than brazing rod.
    Ron B.
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    Its right overhead and not much room. I might do the Sikaflex and pop rivets and see how long it lasts. Even if I get 6 months it will not be hard to clean it up and try again. Might use aluminium sheet as can mould it a bit to the humps and hollows. Got to go to town Wednesday so will visit Bunnings then. It can stay on the hoist till then.
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    if you can clean it JB weld will be with trying, I had a similar on the sump of a Dodge , The engine builder hot tanked the sump and the caustic ate the solder that sealed the dipstick port in the side of sump. He said to bring it back and he will re-solder it . I roughed the surrounding area with 40grit, cleaned it with brake cleaner and temporary smeared JB Weld & painted . Still good 4 years later.

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