Quote:
Originally Posted by 67hardtop
They're back year after year and seem to have two broods.
The fun part is watching the young take their first flights at dusk. Then each morning trying to find where they are in the trees.
Colin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67hardtop
They're back year after year and seem to have two broods.
The fun part is watching the young take their first flights at dusk. Then each morning trying to find where they are in the trees.
Colin
Took Wallit for a drive to the Rob Roy hillclimb today.
Starts & drives well apart from the diff whine. Temperature fairly constant, brakes pull a bit to the right (need to look into that), kept up with the traffic except for a few long hills.
The Isuzu motor needs glowing even on a hot day otherwise it won't start.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/11/604.jpgDSCF6933 by Colin Radley, on Flickr
The gentleman in the red Merc stopped to chat. Seemed to know about 80" Series I's but didn't realise Wallit was mid 70's.
Colin
Colin how is it for engine with the Isuzu?
Or does the diff howl drown it out?
It certainly looks good, pick of the bunch there. ;)
It must be a jap thing with these industrial type diesels needing to be glowed.
We drove Daihatsu diesels for years (2.5 DG's and 2.8 DL's) and they always needed glowing,
even if they had been running and then sat for three or four hours. You certainly couldn't rob
a bank with one, they would catch you while you were trying to glow it.
Cheers, Mick.
Mick,Quote:
Originally Posted by mick88
The diff noise is quite bad accelerating or on the overrun.
Previous owner made an attempt at soundproofing the inside but the diesel is quite noisy still. Can hold a conversation with the passengers but you need to be able to lip read [smilebigeye]
The good thing is that it will keep up with modern traffic (thanks to the high speed transfer box), accelerates quite well and will do 80kph comfortably in 3rd. In a 60kph limit you really need to drop it into 3rd.
I can see why these motors were fitted in the 70's/80's. Dellow mentioned that they had done quite a few but didn't have exact figures. Several have come up for sale but mostly LWB, the motor for this one was taken from a LWB apparently.
When you look under the bonnet it looks like the Isuzu was meant to be there, nice conversion and I have a spare motor & conversion plate (found after the flywheel was made !!!).
Seems quite frugal on diesel but haven't done any figures to prove that, maybe on a long trip in the future......
Colin
I had to replace every pop-rivet on the bonnet I got from Gumtree.
Electrolytic corrosion, you just had to push the back of the rivets and they snapped off. 34 rivets in a bonnet.
The spare wheel mount has been bolted on with undersized bolts, I'm sure these are normally riveted on.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/11/808.jpgDSCN4589 by Colin Radley, on Flickr
Colin
We've had ongoing problems with our phone line, 4 weeks, two 'technicians' and two Telstra contractors. I had to wait for another contractor today so decided to work on Wallit because it's on the front driveway.
I've been threatening to replace the seals under the hardtop for some time, every time it rains I have to bail out the tub.
I was waiting until I get time to remove the roof & sides to paint but that's never going to happen so I got stuck in today.
Firstly removed all the nuts & bolts that hold the sides to the tub then loosened the bolts that hold the roof to the windscreen. Then stood inside, got my shoulders in the door opening, lifted and stuck a length of wood in to hold the roof up. The boys were still in bed because it was only 9.30am.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/12/731.jpgDSCN4603 by Colin Radley, on Flickr
The original seal has a special profile that latches into the sides, I'd sourced some rectangular sponge seal and managed to get this to 'latch' into place, you need to use an old screwdriver (not too sharp) to compress the foam and get it to grip under the lip. I notched the back of the foam at the corners to get it to fit neatly.
Bolted back in place there is no longer a gap under the sides so it should keep the rain out.
While reassembling I took the opportunity to fit a few missing bolts that hold the roof to the sides and the roof to windscreen.
As for the phone.....contractor said he'd fixed the cause of the spurious voltage seen on our phone line. After he left the router dropped out for about 4 hours then after it rained a bit we got a speed of 0.86 Mbps (!) then after a while it jumped to 6.68Mbps. Problems seem to relate to the weather but dealing with the provider has been a pain. Currently with the ombudsman........
Colin
Rained quite heavily this afternoon/evening, tub remained dry (hooray) but there are a couple of other leaks I have to cure.
Water is getting in over both doors, there has been an attempt by the previous owner to seal the roof to gutter but it looks like I need to re-visit this area. There is no way I'm going to separate the roof from the gutter.....too many rivets..... so I'll clean out the old sealant and try and re-seal.
Wouldn't be a problem if it was stored under cover but unfortunately it sits outside.
Colin
The way the gutter/roof surround is designed any leaks get 'contained' in the surround so Land Rover put in a couple of extra drain holes......
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/12/754.jpgRoof leak by Colin Radley, on Flickr
I guess it's a good idea but what it means is the water comes out behind the aluminium strip that holds the top door seal then drips to the floor splashing up the inside of the door & slowly filling the footwell.
Until I get the roof re-sealed I decided to block these holes, I just have to remember to mop out the roof surround which with years of dust & dirt plus water is very muddy. I had to drill out two of the screws that hold the door seal into place, 2BA pan head slotted screws are hard to find so I used some Phillips head 10-32 UNF screws I had available. To fill the holes I used the mastic strip I obtained for installing window glass, cut off a small piece & rolled into a ball.
There is another drain hole directly over each B-pillar and possibly some more down the back.
I need to scrape out the old sealant on the roof and clean up & re-seal but until then I can mop out the surround after heavy rain.
Separating the roof from the surround and sealing properly would be the best solution but would take far too long, plus I'd have to source a lot of special rivets https://www.bits4landys.co.uk/rivets/series2-s3.htm
If the roof was 'mint' I might consider it, unfortunately it isn't..........
Colin
Most wheel mounts were probably fitted by the dealer, and few of these would have been equipped to use solid rivets. Most seem to be pop riveted, but pop riveters were not a standard piece of workshop equipment until the 1960s or even 1970s in some places, so whatever bolts were on hand would sometimes be used.Quote:
Originally Posted by gromit
John,Quote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
The bonnet was pop riveted together which seems normal for Series III so I would have guessed it dates from the 70's.
All the Series III spare wheel mounts I've seen have been pop riveted into place whereas on my IIa Dormobile solid rivets are used (factory fitted probably).
The bolts used were 4BA which is a bit on the small side......anyway, pop rivets now fitted.
Colin