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Thread: Isuzu C240 powered Series 3

  1. #421
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Narre Warren South
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    Quote Originally Posted by 67hardtop View Post
    I wanna visit you one day Colin, just to see the birdies. Ive always loved Tawney Frogmouths...

    Cheers Rod

    They're back year after year and seem to have two broods.

    The fun part is watching the young take their first flights at dusk. Then each morning trying to find where they are in the trees.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  2. #422
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    Jan 1970
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    Took Wallit for a drive to the Rob Roy hillclimb today.

    Starts & drives well apart from the diff whine. Temperature fairly constant, brakes pull a bit to the right (need to look into that), kept up with the traffic except for a few long hills.
    The Isuzu motor needs glowing even on a hot day otherwise it won't start.


    DSCF6933 by Colin Radley, on Flickr


    The gentleman in the red Merc stopped to chat. Seemed to know about 80" Series I's but didn't realise Wallit was mid 70's.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  3. #423
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Irymple, Victoria, Australia
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    Colin how is it for engine with the Isuzu?
    Or does the diff howl drown it out?
    It certainly looks good, pick of the bunch there.
    It must be a jap thing with these industrial type diesels needing to be glowed.
    We drove Daihatsu diesels for years (2.5 DG's and 2.8 DL's) and they always needed glowing,
    even if they had been running and then sat for three or four hours. You certainly couldn't rob
    a bank with one, they would catch you while you were trying to glow it.

    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  4. #424
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    Jan 1970
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    Quote Originally Posted by mick88 View Post
    Colin how is it for engine with the Isuzu?
    Or does the diff howl drown it out?
    It certainly looks good, pick of the bunch there.
    It must be a jap thing with these industrial type diesels needing to be glowed.
    We drove Daihatsu diesels for years (2.5 DG's and 2.8 DL's) and they always needed glowing,
    even if they had been running and then sat for three or four hours. You certainly couldn't rob
    a bank with one, they would catch you while you were trying to glow it.

    Cheers, Mick.
    Mick,
    The diff noise is quite bad accelerating or on the overrun.
    Previous owner made an attempt at soundproofing the inside but the diesel is quite noisy still. Can hold a conversation with the passengers but you need to be able to lip read
    The good thing is that it will keep up with modern traffic (thanks to the high speed transfer box), accelerates quite well and will do 80kph comfortably in 3rd. In a 60kph limit you really need to drop it into 3rd.

    I can see why these motors were fitted in the 70's/80's. Dellow mentioned that they had done quite a few but didn't have exact figures. Several have come up for sale but mostly LWB, the motor for this one was taken from a LWB apparently.
    When you look under the bonnet it looks like the Isuzu was meant to be there, nice conversion and I have a spare motor & conversion plate (found after the flywheel was made !!!).

    Seems quite frugal on diesel but haven't done any figures to prove that, maybe on a long trip in the future......


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  5. #425
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    Jan 1970
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    Narre Warren South
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    I had to replace every pop-rivet on the bonnet I got from Gumtree.
    Electrolytic corrosion, you just had to push the back of the rivets and they snapped off. 34 rivets in a bonnet.
    The spare wheel mount has been bolted on with undersized bolts, I'm sure these are normally riveted on.

    DSCN4589 by Colin Radley, on Flickr


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  6. #426
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    We've had ongoing problems with our phone line, 4 weeks, two 'technicians' and two Telstra contractors. I had to wait for another contractor today so decided to work on Wallit because it's on the front driveway.

    I've been threatening to replace the seals under the hardtop for some time, every time it rains I have to bail out the tub.
    I was waiting until I get time to remove the roof & sides to paint but that's never going to happen so I got stuck in today.

    Firstly removed all the nuts & bolts that hold the sides to the tub then loosened the bolts that hold the roof to the windscreen. Then stood inside, got my shoulders in the door opening, lifted and stuck a length of wood in to hold the roof up. The boys were still in bed because it was only 9.30am.

    DSCN4603 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

    The original seal has a special profile that latches into the sides, I'd sourced some rectangular sponge seal and managed to get this to 'latch' into place, you need to use an old screwdriver (not too sharp) to compress the foam and get it to grip under the lip. I notched the back of the foam at the corners to get it to fit neatly.

    Bolted back in place there is no longer a gap under the sides so it should keep the rain out.
    While reassembling I took the opportunity to fit a few missing bolts that hold the roof to the sides and the roof to windscreen.

    As for the phone.....contractor said he'd fixed the cause of the spurious voltage seen on our phone line. After he left the router dropped out for about 4 hours then after it rained a bit we got a speed of 0.86 Mbps (!) then after a while it jumped to 6.68Mbps. Problems seem to relate to the weather but dealing with the provider has been a pain. Currently with the ombudsman........


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  7. #427
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    Jan 1970
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    Rained quite heavily this afternoon/evening, tub remained dry (hooray) but there are a couple of other leaks I have to cure.
    Water is getting in over both doors, there has been an attempt by the previous owner to seal the roof to gutter but it looks like I need to re-visit this area. There is no way I'm going to separate the roof from the gutter.....too many rivets..... so I'll clean out the old sealant and try and re-seal.

    Wouldn't be a problem if it was stored under cover but unfortunately it sits outside.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  8. #428
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    Jan 1970
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    Narre Warren South
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    The way the gutter/roof surround is designed any leaks get 'contained' in the surround so Land Rover put in a couple of extra drain holes......

    Roof leak by Colin Radley, on Flickr

    I guess it's a good idea but what it means is the water comes out behind the aluminium strip that holds the top door seal then drips to the floor splashing up the inside of the door & slowly filling the footwell.

    Until I get the roof re-sealed I decided to block these holes, I just have to remember to mop out the roof surround which with years of dust & dirt plus water is very muddy. I had to drill out two of the screws that hold the door seal into place, 2BA pan head slotted screws are hard to find so I used some Phillips head 10-32 UNF screws I had available. To fill the holes I used the mastic strip I obtained for installing window glass, cut off a small piece & rolled into a ball.
    There is another drain hole directly over each B-pillar and possibly some more down the back.

    I need to scrape out the old sealant on the roof and clean up & re-seal but until then I can mop out the surround after heavy rain.
    Separating the roof from the surround and sealing properly would be the best solution but would take far too long, plus I'd have to source a lot of special rivets https://www.bits4landys.co.uk/rivets/series2-s3.htm

    If the roof was 'mint' I might consider it, unfortunately it isn't..........

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  9. #429
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post
    I had to replace every pop-rivet on the bonnet I got from Gumtree.
    Electrolytic corrosion, you just had to push the back of the rivets and they snapped off. 34 rivets in a bonnet.
    The spare wheel mount has been bolted on with undersized bolts, I'm sure these are normally riveted on.

    Colin
    Most wheel mounts were probably fitted by the dealer, and few of these would have been equipped to use solid rivets. Most seem to be pop riveted, but pop riveters were not a standard piece of workshop equipment until the 1960s or even 1970s in some places, so whatever bolts were on hand would sometimes be used.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  10. #430
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Most wheel mounts were probably fitted by the dealer, and few of these would have been equipped to use solid rivets. Most seem to be pop riveted, but pop riveters were not a standard piece of workshop equipment until the 1960s or even 1970s in some places, so whatever bolts were on hand would sometimes be used.
    John,

    The bonnet was pop riveted together which seems normal for Series III so I would have guessed it dates from the 70's.
    All the Series III spare wheel mounts I've seen have been pop riveted into place whereas on my IIa Dormobile solid rivets are used (factory fitted probably).

    The bolts used were 4BA which is a bit on the small side......anyway, pop rivets now fitted.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

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