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Thread: Isuzu C240 powered Series 3

  1. #511
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Can I suggest that to overcome the sealer going off, you need a few clamps, with just enough rivets to keep the holes lined up, and put the rest of the rivets in at your liesure.
    Thanks John, that's what I was thinking but not a lot of strength in the lip of the roof. The lip has pulled up and left the rivet tail in a recess so the first job would be to 'panel beat' the lip level & square.
    I think a helper getting rivets into position and the use of a proper squeezer for speed while installing rivets in a pattern to spread the clamping (like tightening a cylinder head down). Possibly worth nipping the rivets then a final squeeze once all installed. If I ever get round to it it's probably ideal for a YouTube video !

    I think the standard roof panel was painted then riveted into position but was the roof panel painted then the tropical top fitted ? Or was it fitted then sprayed with a bit of overspray up between ??

    I may have to remove the tropical roof anyway to straighten a few areas so I'll probably paint the main roof first.

    I was offered a SWB Tropical roof some time back at an astronomical price with the claim that they are very rare. Is that the case in Australia ? You certainly don't see too many.
    I know they were fitted to Station Wagons so there wouldn't be too many and I think they were also a retro-fit to a standard roof.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  2. #512
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    Hi Colin, are you going for an "original" look? If not then why not use sealed pop rivets? You can buy butyl mastic "windscreen sealer" from Bunnings that is soft cure so it doesn't actually go off. It's almost the same as what was originally used. It stays soft but exposed areas forms a skin after a few days, but the actual joint will stay soft, and so stays sealed. It's what I was going to use on the yellow s3 109 that I had, that was leaking between the joints. I never got to it coz I needed money and sold it. I had another roof that I was going to seal and swap over when I was going to do it. Just a suggestion mate. Cheers Rod

  3. #513
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    Quote Originally Posted by 67hardtop View Post
    Hi Colin, are you going for an "original" look? If not then why not use sealed pop rivets? You can buy butyl mastic "windscreen sealer" from Bunnings that is soft cure so it doesn't actually go off. It's almost the same as what was originally used. It stays soft but exposed areas forms a skin after a few days, but the actual joint will stay soft, and so stays sealed. It's what I was going to use on the yellow s3 109 that I had, that was leaking between the joints. I never got to it coz I needed money and sold it. I had another roof that I was going to seal and swap over when I was going to do it. Just a suggestion mate. Cheers Rod
    Hi Rod,
    I want it to look correct hence I'll be going for the original semi-tubular rivets and that means a rivet squeezer, although I could 'make something' that would do the job.
    A proper rivet squeezer isn't 'that' expensive if purchased from the US.



    I have a box of assorted genuine rivets (from Regent Motors) and need to check if there are any for the roof. A temporary repair to Wallit's existing roof by replacing some loose & missing rivets might help. I'm sure I can make some tooling fitted into a G-clamp that would work.

    Butyl mastic might be OK but I was hoping to use something that would carry some of the load as well as the rivets. Remember it's an Isuzu and at tickover it shakes your teeth out.

    As I mentioned earlier it's rapidly heading towards the 'back burner' as I'm trying to get a military Land Rover back on the road and then the Dormobile.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  4. #514
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    You could use Clecos or skinpins to hold the job in clamps while taking your time.

    https://www.ebay.com.au/i/1322072691...SABEgJqDvD_BwE

    Don.

  5. #515
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don 130 View Post
    You could use Clecos or skinpins to hold the job in clamps while taking your time.

    https://www.ebay.com.au/i/1322072691...SABEgJqDvD_BwE

    Don.
    I have something similar but with 139 rivets a few would be needed to pull it down evenly.

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  6. #516
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    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post
    Decided to finish the steering relay tonight.
    It came off a spares car and was in poor condition but a couple of gaskets, a couple of new seals, skimming the shaft, drilling out a broken bolt and re-assembling and it'll do as a spare.

    Mounted in the vice partly assembled.





    Spring compressed and locked in place.





    Split Tufnol bush held with a hose clamp so the spring compressor tool can be removed.






    Endcap on with a smear of Permatex non-setting gasket cement.






    I used cap heads which are very non-original......and will also foul the steering arm. The correct shallow, undersized head bolts are on the way from the UK.
    The brass thrust washers at either end were re-used after cleaning but the steel washers that sit between the spring and the tufnol bushes had to be replaced because they were badly rusted.

    I filled it with oil before the endcap was bolted on.



    Colin
    Colin,

    Hello from Brisbane.

    I realise that your post is now old, but it’s also timely - I’m presently going through the same manoeuvre.

    I can see that the post was a victim of the great Photobucket hijack that wrecked many of my own threads at the time. However, I was wondering whether you might still have the original photos somewhere?

    If so, I’d be keen to sight them.

    Cheers,

    Neil
    1975 S3 88" - Ratel

  7. #517
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Colin,

    You asked a while back about how common were tropical roofs. As far as I recall, they were only fitted (as standard) to station wagons (rare) and to selected government orders, for example, the BMR, Department of Supply, GPO, which were less rare, but still not common. I made one and fitted it to my swb Series 1 in 1962.

    Most series Landrovers not bought by governments (including army) were bought by either farmers or companies. Farmers during the Series 1 era almost always bought the cheapest going - i.e. swb soft top, or sometimes lwb utes, moving more to these and especially traybacks by the time Series 2/2a replaced Series 1. Almost none of these had tropical roofs. Companies bought mainly utes, usually lwb, and hardtops either swb or lwb. I don't recall seeing any of these with with a tropical roof.

    On a similar "optional equipment" question, very few if any Series Landrovers in Australia were sold with heaters (except stationwagons) except for government contracts in very cold areas (e.e. SMHEA vehicles) until demisters became required equipment in the early 1970s. Some were fitted with aftermarket heaters, usually a lot cheaper than the factory ones, and similar if not identical. The first two Series I got were S/H SMHEA vehicles already fitted with heaters, and I fitted heaters to the two S2as that I have bought (except the parts ones!).
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #518
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    Quote Originally Posted by S3ute View Post
    Colin,

    Hello from Brisbane.

    I realise that your post is now old, but it’s also timely - I’m presently going through the same manoeuvre.

    I can see that the post was a victim of the great Photobucket hijack that wrecked many of my own threads at the time. However, I was wondering whether you might still have the original photos somewhere?

    If so, I’d be keen to sight them.

    Cheers,

    Neil
    Neil,
    I have them on another computer, I'll dig them out...



    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Colin,

    You asked a while back about how common were tropical roofs. As far as I recall, they were only fitted (as standard) to station wagons (rare) and to selected government orders, for example, the BMR, Department of Supply, GPO, which were less rare, but still not common. I made one and fitted it to my swb Series 1 in 1962.

    Most series Landrovers not bought by governments (including army) were bought by either farmers or companies. Farmers during the Series 1 era almost always bought the cheapest going - i.e. swb soft top, or sometimes lwb utes, moving more to these and especially traybacks by the time Series 2/2a replaced Series 1. Almost none of these had tropical roofs. Companies bought mainly utes, usually lwb, and hardtops either swb or lwb. I don't recall seeing any of these with with a tropical roof.

    On a similar "optional equipment" question, very few if any Series Landrovers in Australia were sold with heaters (except stationwagons) except for government contracts in very cold areas (e.e. SMHEA vehicles) until demisters became required equipment in the early 1970s. Some were fitted with aftermarket heaters, usually a lot cheaper than the factory ones, and similar if not identical. The first two Series I got were S/H SMHEA vehicles already fitted with heaters, and I fitted heaters to the two S2as that I have bought (except the parts ones!).
    John,
    I did find the Tropical skin listed somewhere as an accessory so could it have been fitted to a standard roof ?
    SWB Station Wagons aren't common as you mention, hence a 'supplier' offering me a SWB Tropical roof a while back for $1,300 !!

    The LWB Tropical roof is more common, I have one behind the shed from a wagon I parted out a couple of years ago.

    Looks like an 'interesting' job to separate it so first I'll plan to strip the roof off the gutter then straighten the edge, seal and re-rivet then maybe look at taking off the top skin. At the moment it's well down the 'to do' list.......




    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  9. #519
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post
    Neil,
    I have them on another computer, I'll dig them out...





    John,
    I did find the Tropical skin listed somewhere as an accessory so could it have been fitted to a standard roof ?
    SWB Station Wagons aren't common as you mention, hence a 'supplier' offering me a SWB Tropical roof a while back for $1,300 !!

    The LWB Tropical roof is more common, I have one behind the shed from a wagon I parted out a couple of years ago.

    Looks like an 'interesting' job to separate it so first I'll plan to strip the roof off the gutter then straighten the edge, seal and re-rivet then maybe look at taking off the top skin. At the moment it's well down the 'to do' list.......




    Colin
    Yes, they were listed as an accessory, and were dealer fitted as I noted for some government contracts. I have never heard of one being fitted other than by the factory or a dealer to a new vehicle.

    The one I made was simply a sheet of alloy significantly thicker than the factory ones, cut to size, and with triangles cut to allow for the bend (leaving a tab to overlap at the outer edge. It was held by a number of either self tappers or pop rivets, (I can't remember which) onto the ribs, and with three door stop rubbers along each edge throughbolted. Edges were not turned down like the factory ones. I brush painted it white.

    Worked quite well and did not vibrate.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  10. #520
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    Wallit has been idle for a few weeks due to the lockdown, it was getting used most Sundays going to the local Trash & Treasure market.

    The young bloke wanted to look at a Disco 300Tdi today so we ended up on a 120km round trip.
    The usual problem with windows steaming up early on but once on the move Wallit ran well and did the trip effortlessly. Kept up with the traffic (what there was of it) and I could eventually get used to the cabin noise but do need to think about changing the rear diff at some point !

    Now to post some Disco questions elsewhere on the forum......


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

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