What engine? Series III

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Originally Posted by Series3 GT

I reckon the Izuzu 4BD1 and 4BD1T would be an interesting conversion. How well do they go into a series

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I have thought about fitting a 4BD1T to a series without fitting a Stage 1/ 110 front end.

If you are happy to chop the firewall the engine could be moved back a lot further than in a Stage 1 / 110. Which would also help weight distribution.

In a worst case scenario you would also need a rear-mounted radiator.

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Originally Posted by Series3 GT

I reckon the Izuzu 4BD1 and 4BD1T would be an interesting conversion. How well do they go into a series

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The 4BD1 was a standard option in late Series 3, and the answer to your question - very well. But that is using a LT95 box and full time 4wd. The Series box will certainly not stand up to it, although the T/C might.

John

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

The 4BD1 was a standard option in late Series 3, and the answer to your question - very well. But that is using a LT95 box and full time 4wd. The Series box will certainly not stand up to it, although the T/C might.

John

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But that was also by moving the front cross member forward, flattening the line of the front and modifying the transmission tunnel.

What I would also like to see with these comparative charts are:

1. The overall length of the engine?
2. RPM range and peak torque of engine?
3. Position of the engine mountings?
4. External fittings that will obstruct original chassis/mountings?
5. External fittings that will obstruct front axle?
6. Position and direction of exhaust outlet.
7. Availability of aftermarket adapters?

Then the chart will be useful and actually make sense.

It would also be useful if there were gearbox options and adapter availability included.

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

The 4BD1 was a standard option in late Series 3, and the answer to your question - very well. But that is using a LT95 box and full time 4wd. The Series box will certainly not stand up to it, although the T/C might.

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I figured the gearbox would be up for replacement. May as well replace the transfer case at the same time if I were to go down that road.

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Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

What I would also like to see with these comparative charts are:

1. The overall length of the engine?
2. RPM range and peak torque of engine?
3. Position of the engine mountings?
4. External fittings that will obstruct original chassis/mountings?
5. External fittings that will obstruct front axle?
6. Position and direction of exhaust outlet.
7. Availability of aftermarket adapters?

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I shall try to add some of this info in the near future. Unfortunately I don't have anywhere near enough knowledge to fill it all. Perhaps others could chip in?

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Originally Posted by AAFitArm

I figured the gearbox would be up for replacement. May as well replace the transfer case at the same time if I were to go down that road. ...

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The series landrover bellhousing and gearbox are quite short. It can be difficult to find a replacement the right length - if not you either have to move the engine forward or put up with a gear stick in place of the centre seat.

The other factor is what motor did the Landy have from the factory. The 4cyl and the 6cyl were built with a different firewall and gearbox position.

The 6cyl has a recessed firewall so the 6 cylinder motor can fit under the bonnet and the gearbox I'm pretty sure sits further back - all in comparison to the 4 cyl. The Xmembers underneath will be positioned to suit.

This affects the room you have to work with. The Series Landy gearbox is about 700mm from the front of the bellhousing to the back of the handbrake + motor length with fan and radiator, but you will probably find that just about all of these engines have longer gearboxs with transfer cases than the rover so that may still limit the combination that you could put in.

Anyway, I've already posted what to look for.

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

The series landrover bellhousing and gearbox are quite short. It can be difficult to find a replacement the right length - if not you either have to move the engine forward or put up with a gear stick in place of the centre seat.

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What centre seat :p

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Originally Posted by slunnie

The other factor is what motor did the Landy have from the factory. The 4cyl and the 6cyl were built with a different firewall and gearbox position

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I believe it had the 4 cylinder, will have a look and see tomorrow after work. Would it be on the plates mounted on the firewall?



Also is the updated list for engine specs. Dimensions are proving difficult to find.

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Originally Posted by AAFitArm

I figured the gearbox would be up for replacement. May as well replace the transfer case at the same time if I were to go down that road.



I shall try to add some of this info in the near future. Unfortunately I don't have anywhere near enough knowledge to fill it all. Perhaps others could chip in?

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Some of the info you need to have photos and lay the measuring stick on the engine. Other info like RPM bands and torque are available from the manufacturer.

Things to look for are the oil filter pointing forward and down at the bottom/front of the engine. Winged sumps. Injector pumps low down on the LHS of the engine or even the RHS. Exhaust manifolds that point down at the LHS chassis rail or RHS prop shaft.

If you can compile a good enough chart I'll make a sticky out of it.

Diana

The 4BD1 is a fair sized engine. There's not many 4L ( close to) 4cyl diesels around. They seem to produce a fair amount of torque but I think the 4BD1T is the one to go for. Or even a 200TDI they just slip straight onto the series bellhousing.

The Nissan TD27 Turbo (Terrano 1) is strong and reliable as a piece of granite.

Power is on par with the 300TDi.

mechanical fuel pump, reacts well to an IC and some pump tweaks etc.

It would be one of my first choices.