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Had those, or similar, hubs on my old 2a. Never any problems, but I was warned by the PO to make certain both screw locks were locked when using them. It had a simple piece of flat bar, bent to an L shape with the end ground to fit the slots. Great find!
My father ad those FWH on his S3 , when he bought the hubs they came with a L shaped flat bar to engage . Only problem he had with them saw they were hard to engage some times , you needed to be on flat ground so you could roll the vehicle by hand so everything lined up, apart from that they seamed to be very strong.
My daily driver for 10 years was a S3 LWB with a Toyota B motor. I think it was 3 li.
The electric fuel shut off system used to stop the engine was never hooked up by whomever converted it, it was a simple pull the lever/cable system for off, and yes the plugs took sometime to warm up, had the old tractor style glowing wire to show when the plugs were up to temp.
It had high range diffs and a lower transfer case ratio so off road performance was not affected.
Early on I noticed a set of inch steel blocks added to the front bump stops, in my quest for better of road performance I removed these and on the test run put the tail shaft uni. through the bottom of the oil filter. A major bill followed...
Engine braking was superb, but the gear box never really seemed to cope with it, steep descents always saw one hand on the wheel, other hand fighting the gear stick to stop it slipping into neutral. Apparently the S2 gearbox would have been more suited, probably cheaper than rebuilding the box as often as I did.
Difficult to keep an exhaust intact as well, fixed this by fabricating header pipes and a short stainless system.
The adaptor plate to the Landy gearbox was a work of art.
It really was very capable off road, just kept plugging away and doing the job, cruising speed was 100kmh, but any faster was very hard work.
Twice I fluffed gear changes on steep climbs and managed to get the diesel running in reverse, blue exhaust smoke coming out of the Donaldson air cleaner, heaps of reverse gears and not many forward.
Interesting to see how you go with it.
Have fun.
Rich.
Hello Rich,Quote:
Originally Posted by FV1601
Well it took me a fair few scrolls of the "zoom out" in Google Map before I could geographically place where Barnawartha, Victoria actually is. My closest landmark was 1:45 hours drive away - Wagga Wagga. I was born in Temora - NSW - yep not far from Wagga Wagga.
Thank you for the insight into how to handle a Toyota "B" motor installed into a Series LWB - it should make the motor being installed in a SWB that much more interesting!
I had a single cylinder trail bike that started the wrong side of Top Dead Centre once. I had refilled from a fuel can I had stored in a pannier bag; while I was on the side of the road, in the middle of nowhere. I put the bike into gear and let the clutch out. I was quite surprised when the motorbike went into reverse! I immediately stopped the engine. After my heartbeat returned to normal I started the bike again and everything was fine. It would have been a long walk pushing the bike into the next town too.
Since my new-to-me vehicle has been sitting for some time there is a fair chance that it needs the diesel primed. I do not know if there is any fuel in the tank and whether the fuel lines are all dry. I do not have a workshop manual for the engine yet.
Do the B motors need to be primed all the way through to the injectors? With my Land Rover 2.25 litre four cylinder diesel I have had to only prime through the two priming points before the injectors. I was also lucky enough to have an electric fuel pump installed. All I had to do was open the first bleed screw until the fuel flow was steady - then repeated it with the second bleed screw.
I intend hooking up a similar electric fuel pump when I go to start the new vehicle. Where are the priming points for the B motor?
Do you have any photographs of your old vehicle?
Kind Regards
Lionel
Hi Lionel, not hard to find Barnawartha, situated on the picturesque Hume Freeway as we are..
I passed the S3 on back in 2000, can't remember if I ever had to bleed it, I was paranoid about running out because I did not know how to bleed fuel systems back then.
Carried some ridiculous weights in the old girl, but always struggled with it being a 3 seater and needing 5.
I was running 8.25x16's on the road at one stage, increased the cruising speed to a comfortable 110kph, but the aerodynamics meant that the extra fuel used to get the there negated any saving
Pre digital age, so photos are buried somewhere, but will see what I have handy.
Regards from another MLU'er
Rich.
You don't need an electric pump . There is a mechanical lift pump built into the Injector pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lionelgee
The hand priming pump is the round knob thing on the side of the injector pump .
Depending on model you may need to unscrew the primer knob & it will pop up , otherwise just pump it . (Park it again when bled)
Bleed screw is on top of the fuel filter housing at upper front left of engine, Loosen the screw with a 10mm spanner & pump the primer until all the air is bled out . thats it , no need to bleed the injectors.
The bleed screw is on top of the banjo exiting the filter.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/05/219.jpg
Also note the big B cast into the Block , This is a 3 litre B , there is a 3.0L 2B as used in Coaster and 3B 3.2L and 3BT 3.2 Turbo
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/05/220.jpg
Notice the Daihatsu logo on your sticker , these Toyota engines are infact made by Daihatsu.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lionelgee
similar sticker in a photo of my old BJ40 engine. ( Toyota B )
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/05/222.jpg
I previously said engine number was found between 1 &2 , its actually 3 & 4 , also notice the Diahatsu logo cast into inlet manifold.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/05/221.jpg