S-1 Engine swap info

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Originally Posted by landyfromanuthaland

I have heard of an place in Adelaide that will turn up new pistons for anything vintage or odd ball and for a realistic price, werent the early willys jeeps of the same configuration with valves inhead and block, sound like a bugger to dismantle, need a workshop manual I guess, what year did this typeof motor end, these were updraught carbies werent they?

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Early Willys Jeep engines were side valve, changed to Overhead inlet/side exhaust as a conversion to the side valve engine some time in the late fifties.

This type of engine was used for all Series 1 petrol engines from 1948 to 1958, and a similar six was used in Series 2 & 3 from about 1968 to 1983. The engines are not particularly hard to dismantle, although they ARE a bit different (for example the piston won't fit through the throw of the crank, and the big end won't fit through the bore, so you have to remove the gudgeon pin and take the piston up and the rod down). A workshop manual is a good idea, as you say. The carburetter is a downdraft Solex.

John

the best way to get the pistons out is with a modded spark plug and a grease gun.

Drop off all the bottom end then put the engine back right way up with the head firmly on

Grab an old spark plug that fits, knock the guts out of it and save the ring weld a grease nipple onto it, thread it in and start pumping grease in.. dont force it too much you dont want to shatter the bores let the grease and the pressure from the air trapped in the head do the work for you.

the grease will press the piston down and when it wont move any further the pressure will force it into the spaces forcing the skirts of the piston inwards. letting more grease in to do the work...

Tis how I seperate single cylinder steam or kero burners.

Sounds like a good idea Dave I will give it a go

If you can't find a bit for an S1 engine in Oz, Ian Cox - from Cox N Turner Engineering in the UK has just about everything you need to restore one of these engines.

A friend recently bought an 80" landy which was sitting a paddock for years without moving. He cranked the engine over a couple of times by hand then connected a battery and a drop of fuel down the carb and it started to first go. He then drove it around the paddock (after changing the tyres of course). You can be lucky. I would have put a drop of oil down each spark plug hole first.

The best of the Series 1 engines are the spread bore 2 litres. They don't suffer from the problems of blowing head-gaskets between 1&2 or 3&4, have a proper seal at the rear of the crank and a bit more power. By swapping the engine mounts / flywheel / flywheel housing and starter motor from the 1.6 litre or Siamese bore 2 litre the late 2 litre engine will fit in exactly the same as the original engine. You then use the original manifolds, linkages and hoses.

What you should be on the look out for is a 1955 - 1958 Land Rover (some early S2's had the 2 litre S1 engine) with a dead body or chassis but a good engine. Then you cannibalise the engine out of it.

With a seized engine, have you tried pouring diesel into the each piston and leaving it there for a few days/weeks. It works it way through and lostens everything up if it is just a piston stuck in the bore. Then take the head off and see if you can get some movement, even if you have to use a lump of wood and heavy hammer, tapping each piston to till you start some movement.

As a last resort dump the block into a molasses bath (10:1 water:molasses or maybe a stronger, I have used 3:1 ) for a few weeks. It will eat all the "white" metals, lead/diecast/aluminium and leave you with a cast iron block with conrods hanging in space and rings still in the bores.

Diana

Stick with the original engine. I did a very early 1597cc motor that had had the head off and was frozen solid. Company in Perth did the rebore to 40' over and I had obtained a set of pistons to suit. The steel back in those days gets a lot of surface rust but doesn't pit like the new stuff.

dunno:beer:

Yeah I guess i should try and free the old donk up and see what its like, if the bores are okish I can probably get away with a cylinder hone and ridge remove and maybe able use the original pistons if they arent too badly worn or sloppy in the gudgeons but there are tricks one can use on pistons, lets not jump the gun till I have a good look, I have heard of the mollasses bath before know a guy who dunks vintage tractor parts in them to clean up