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In my experience, a slipped liner does not equal a massive coolant leak into a cylinder. I'd be betting you've had a head gasket let go to have that big a leak into #7.
The liner might still be a problem down the track though but that's not going to be the main cause of your leak IMO.
The thing that really ticks me off is all the new gear I fitted to it recently, I was lucky in that it died not far from home so towing fee wasnt to bad. Anyhow still deciding what to do.
Razza - I like the idea of a 5Lt :) Maybe we do that....
Hmmm, that reminds me, time to sign up for Roadside Assist...
Cheers,
Keels.
If you are doing it yourself it might be cost effective to get a second hand engine shipped from the UK. I have no idea of the cost but I dont think it would be that outrageous, I shipped a whole car for 1000 pounds.
I recon you should be able to get a good engine shipped all up for less than A$2000, probably less
RANGE ROVER P38 4.6 V8 ENGINE TESTED/WARRANTY on eBay (end time 12-Aug-10 19:42:31 BST)
You are right. I'm looking for one with a dead motor so I can get a T-sleeved motor put in that I know will be reliable. Only I'm not allowed to get another car at the moment :(Quote:
Originally Posted by DT-P38
That and the fact I live in Sydney doesn't help you much.
Bruce Davis has a 5ltr, T-sleeve, liquid gas injection P38 he takes around the shows. Very nice, but way to quick for a granny driver like me.
I know exactly what you guys are feeling. My story is too long to relate here but very quick summary is, two hour drive at easter to a camping site, a 98 autobiography and 97 HSE both vehicles did liners on the same trip. One had lasted 2 years since rebuild after a cook-up and the other had lasted 2000km. Tested replacement blocks had been used in both original rebuilds but they still dropped liners without any prior symptoms.
Both are now fitted with flanged liner motors and I would NOT recommend anything else regardless of any warranty.
Hey there guys,
thanks for all your feed back, i must say a big thanks to everyone for their help. Its not often you find a better bunch of blokes and ladies willing to help out with such an issue.
I am thinking that with my situation that the head gasket must have gone but i wont know till i get it home and pull it all apart. RACQ have been fantastic and helpful.
Would the head gasket going put enough air into the coolant to increae the pressure to blow the top radiator hose off? usually the coolant gets oil in it?
anyhow i am going to get it back home, pull out the motor in my single car garage, at the rate of two hours a night (thats all i have as i work 12 hours a day)....
***My girlfriend just gave me "THE CHAT", yep thats right the "Lets just sell the money pit" chat...oh no...
Depends where it's blown/leaking. If it's between a combustion chamber & water jacket, then a big YES.Quote:
Originally Posted by Razza's Rangie
This is definitely what yours sounds like.
If the gasket blows between a water jacket & an oil gallery/passage (not all that common on the Rover V8), then you'll get the water/oil mayonaise mix.
Well after chatting with the Mrs and to Glen I think I'll put her on Ebay and see what happens. Stay tuned :)
Hey there guys,
Ok after much stuffing around and phone calls to a myriad of mechanics here are my options:
OPTION 1- MR AUTOMOTIVE (Redcliffe) Complete 4.6ltr $3950 Exchange with 3 mnth/10k warranty (by complete i mean with water pump,pas pump,alternator etc) **Chance that it blows a head gasket in the future, but i would replace head gaskets when i got it here after 3 months warranty was up**
OPTION 2- ALL 4x4 Spares (Sydney) Brand new Land Rover short motor, reco heads, 12months warranty, exchange $4400
OPTION 3- Remove my current block and test ($100) if condemned see option 1 or 2, If block tests ok then re-sleeve (t-sleeves)$2200 and rebuild items $2000
So guys I am thinking that option1 would be the best to get my car back on the road the quickest, although it would require removing and replacing the head gaskets at a later date (after the three month warranty i guess) which means that i would be up for about another $3000 (i would get it t-sleeved)
OPtion 2 after a re-sleeve(cheap insurance to make sure i never slip a liner) would cost about the same but the warranty is void if i re-sleeve it, maybe I should wait till after the 12month warranty is up.
Option 3 I would probably end up with the same quality as the complete motor although it would be re-sleeved so should see me through for a while
Can you let me know what you think?