BeCM waking up - dead battery

As per the first post, I disconnected the receiver antenna first. It still happens.

Glossary: Sleep - small gear indicator light on transmission console extinguished.
Awake - that same small light - glowing dimly.

I did more testing tonight. She goes to sleep right on cue at exactly two minutes, the light is completely dark. Then every time, after between 6 seconds and 25 seconds, she wakes up and then interestingly, does NOT go back to sleep after an additional two minute wait.

The same situation occurs with windows up and windows down. In neutral and in park. With the receiver antenna connected or disconnected. As per in the OP, my wireless energy meter and doorbell are switched off.

Another piece of intell is that, I might be seeing things, but sometimes I think the light glows more dimly than other times. There seems to be three levels: full bright, when ignition is on, glowing dimly (but obviously) when doors are locked and its waiting to go to sleep, and then a more dim glow which is hard to see (but there) upon some awakening episodes.

Does it only happen in your garage? If you park it outside does it still wake up after a few minutes? What about at work or some other distant location?

Thinking about what RR P38 has suggested... are all your key barrells well lubed?

Maybe remove the EAS Delay Timer one night as well... you know, the little black matchbox sized relay-looking thing under the passenger seat.

Cheers
Paul.

I never got around to looking at this rather bought a decent 1000 cold cranking amp battery and have never looked back but it might be worth a shot ;)

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Cheers,
Remy

Funny that. I just got told recently my battery (an RACV replaced item) is 30% undersize at 650 CCA. It has gone OK for last 3 years with no real drama's that I am aware of... was thinking about using it as a dual battery for the other vehicle (lights and light fridge use) and getting an upgraded one for "the pig".

Anyone aware of the correct P38 CCA?

there was a bulletin from rover back in 97 or 98 recommending 1000 cca for all p38s in Australia. at the time i worked at ULR in Melbourne and we had trouble getting hold of units that would fit.

Mine is well undersize then (only 650 CCA, and a genuine Land Rover item at that...)! It was fitted by the LR dealership that mine was serviced at in Melbourne by the previous owners!

Keithy

Mine from previous owner too, and its only 490! He has been using it for ages without problem. My RACQ guy said they were supposed to have 950s in them but good luck getting one.

After having alarm immobiliser problems (see this thread) I took my 2000 HSE into a LR specialist - he didnt say a thing about my 490CCA battery, he just charged it up. I thought he would blame all the woes of the world on it. He didnt seem to care, or, if he did, he didnt care enough to say anything to me.

Worthy of note though: for people with battery/BECM weaking problems - something has caused my drivers door lock mechanism to crap out, and I have ready that low battery can accelerate its failure, but I dont know how.

I certainly makes sense in my case. Battery was flat 15 times over the last 2 months and I had to jump start it on each occasion.

Perhaps someone can articulate why that a 490CCA battery which is half as big as it should be and which is cranking/starting the engine easily is "too small". Surely cranking the donk is the biggest drain the battery can expect?

small batteries will work but they are working flat out and have no reserve power when they start to fail, a bigger battery has more capacity to soak up the highs and lows but still give a stable voltage.
the battery problem has been arround for ages and just keeps being made worse, with more and more demands for power. rover say that the problem on LM range rovers is so bad they have to be put on charge when they are in for any service. this is because a voltage below 12.6 will start causing systems to shut down (this is a 12V system remember).
other cars need stable voltages of around 12V to function properly which is possible with smaller batteries but everything must be in top condition and the battery fully charged, otherwise the starter will drag the voltage down to 10 and below (which rattles relays and gives Becms a headache).
the charging system is also being pushed over its limit and so does not keep the battery fully charged, the temperature of the battery is too high (you cannot fully charge a hot battery), the charge time from the alternator is often too short and the voltage is too low (especially for calcium type). this is all i can remember of a long lecture i got on a course at rover. there are some more articles about this online if you are interested.

prity much all the new cars, say d3 on,, 12.4ish is a flat battery,

and wile cranking if the battery fails to keep the volts above 11.2 you got more problems