I recon the EAS valve block rebuild is a right of passage which must be completed before you are fully affiliated to the cause.
Welcome to the Club.
For informational purposes only.
I rebuilt the valve block today with a kit from HardRange.com. Following the excellent instructions from PaulP38a. Here is my blog (it's crap, have low expectations).
It took about 4.5 hours at a leisurely pace, and was pretty easy. I didnt crack open the solenoid internals, but did everything else. The NRV orings (the very small ones) were very hard and perished and malformed, but all others were just squared (cross section) but otherwise seemed OK.
Last edited by glenhendry; 20th December 2010 at 11:46 AM. Reason: incorrect url
I recon the EAS valve block rebuild is a right of passage which must be completed before you are fully affiliated to the cause.
Welcome to the Club.
Of course, it was all done up and ready to go back into the RR when I noticed a small spring on the table. Doh!
Hey, I do have a question about this. I didnt get a new diaphram with my rebuild kit but I am not sure how to tell if mine did need replacement. It was quite hard (as in not flexible or rubbery), but it did look in tact and had no tears or breaks in it.
If it needs to be soft like oring rubber to create a seal, then I think that mine is no good. Can someone describe a good one to me?
Glen - you're not the first person to forget to put that little spring back in... I've done it at least once (that I'll admit to)
This one eh?
What you look for in the old diaphragm is signs of wear and cracks in the rubber... disassembled view below... this one is ok
If you replace the original diaphragm with the orange one from Hard Range or Rover Renovations, you re-use the spring too.
I must update the Valve Block Refresh Guide at EAS Valve Block Renew PaulP38A.com with this info, plus some excellent feedback and pics from a recent customer.
Cheers, Paul.
My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com
Well, I am still having leaking problems. Car is down from full height overnight. The joins on the 6mm air hose look good under the soapy spray, so I sprayed the top of the solenoid covers when in operation, there were big angry bubbles from 2 of the top 5 solenoid covers.
So, either it was because I didnt replace the tiny tiny tiny orings internally on the solenoid switch plunger. I wil do that now. The other question I have is that 4 of the 5 top solenoids didnt have a squarish oring seal where the solenoid cover meets the valve block face. Is this right? See attached picture. I dont think I lost them, they werent there to begin with.
I cant see from Paul's rebuild pics if the solenoid covers (the ones that have two small black wires going into them) have the squarish shaped orings in them or not. Same problem with the RR.net rebuild web page pics.
yep, from memory only one has a rubber squarish seal... the Exhaust Valve I think.
Here's a good tip from a Hard Range customer (Peter, thanks) when replacing the o-rings on the stem seals.
When reassembling this part, hold the stem seal against the upper body as you locate it to the lower body as shown below. This will ensure this o ring stays seated whilst tightening the screws
Cheers
Paul.
My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com
This is correct. Only the diapraghm solenoid cover has the squarish oring seal against the valve block face, all of the other solenoid covers have the groove for the squarish oring, but no oring.
I took the valve block out again yesterday and finished installing the last two tiny orings inside the solenoid switch case that I failed to the first time around.
Happily, the RR is staying up high overnight and is holding pressure in the storage tank much better. My EAS is back to spec!
The lesson here is, even though PaulP38s valve block rebuild instructions say "If you want to be thorough you can can replace the internal orings", my suggestion is to definitely do it every rebuild. They are an easy install and seem to definitely make a difference in holding air![]()
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