When I removed my dash to do the Matrix i forgot to reconnect the brake ligh switch wire and got the ABS and TC fault showing on the dash .Reconnected the wires all was ok
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When I removed my dash to do the Matrix i forgot to reconnect the brake ligh switch wire and got the ABS and TC fault showing on the dash .Reconnected the wires all was ok
To close out, it was the accumulator. I received the new one and replaced it. It is an easy job, but care should be taken not to make it a messy job.
Much more brake fluid came out than I was expecting, and pooled on my garage floor after running down over the air spring and chassis etc. I am quite sure no air entered the system though, as where the accumulator screws into the brake pump is quite proud. My brake fluid did look a bit off colour though (I think), so I reckon its time for a flush through a bleed very soon anyway.
The problem is fixed, the lights do not come on anymore. However, like rangerdanger, I felt no difference in the brake pedal or stopping power after the procedure.
Data points:
- Be sure to depressurise the brake system as per RAVE (easy).
- The old one screws off fairly easily with an oil filter remover tool.
- The new oring is very easy to install on the new accumulator.
- The new accumulator screw back into the pump very easily.
- The manual says to bleed to brake system, many here and on RR.net have not taken that step (it seems).
Did you notice any change in the frequency or duration of the ABS pump cutting in out?Quote:
Originally Posted by glenhendry
I had mine done recently and I swear I have noticed NO difference in any of the areas/symptoms mentioned or experienced. Funnily enough I have a weird experience to share about this whole thing though...
I replaced my accumulator based on advice on a "Free Pre-Winter Safety Check" from a fairly reputable LR/RR garage in Melbourne. It made me raise an eyebrow when told as I hadn't had any issue with brakes up to that point. When my usual repairer did the chage over, he rang me and said was I aware there was no o-ring in place pre change over...
A second item highlighted by the check was that HEVAC diagnostic analysis showed I required a new right side Blower Motor and a IR Sensor to get the heater right and remove the newly appearing 'cheque book' symbol. I had previously been advised to replace the HEVAC control unit as some functionality and messages were were missing completely. So I sourced the parts and when my usual repairer started the job he noticed that the fuses/relays for the right blower were missing. He put's in the new control unit and missing fuses/relays and surprise, surprise the HEVAC (including blowers and sensors) is now working perfectly with no faults logged. Now this could all be co-incidental, but only a month or two prior a good buddy had plugged his multi-HEVAC-licence Faultmate into the pig and NO FAULTS logged at all.
There were a couple of other quirky items listed and I'm just wondering if these clowns actually get people stooged and rip them off regularly? Has anyone else had an experience like this on the East side of Melbourne recently?
Dave
P.S. I think GlenHendry asked this earlier too... Does anyone know how an accumulator is determined to be requiring replacement? Mine had no visible signs of leaking and apart from the missing seal the thing has made no visible or (noticable) functional difference?
The accumulator has a bladder in it. The bladder is nitrogen filled.
When the brake booster is running it compresses the nitrogen bladder this pressure is stored in effect by the bladder.
You cannot compress a liquid but you can compress a gas.
So the pressure transmitter switch that is on the side of the booster pump tells the booster pump to stop at a set pressure. It starts again when the pressure falls bellow a set point.
If the bladder leaks/ruptures the nitrogen will most likely stay in the bulb that is the accumulator, but some will find that some will make it into the brake circuit the result of this will be a spongy pedal.
No leakage will be evident externally if it fails.
It seem that the most likely cause of booster pump failure is the pressure switch, this is not a serviceable item.